Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ive got a 3inch 'hiflow' cat converter on my Stagea at the moment (same as for r33).... very new, like a few months old only. Id love to get an even bigger one, like 4inches or more........................ but checked the prices and the larger ones arnt that cheap - mine cost $190, off BATMBL here on the forums.

Brendan

Edited by Tangles

probably wasn't very clear in my first post. i'm basically look at making straight through cats for mine and my mates cars and i'd also like some 3" flanges off them! So basically i'm just after ones that are shagged an no one wants any more, none of these expensive ones!

:) Ive got my old 'compliance' cat you can pretty much have..... but im sure thats a 2 or 2.5inch unit, sorry.

Use that and cut the flanges off, and get a 3inch pipe from a exhaust shop pretty cheap......

Edited by Tangles

Ash,

You can pick up the 3" flanges for next to nothing from AAA Exhaust.

I bought a 1m piece of 3" pipe, 2 flanges and 2 gaskets for $30.

Nice bloke at AAA, will definitely have future exhaust mods done there.

Which will be fairly soon as I am going to quieten the car up a little by dropping the largest straight through muffler I can fit under the car just after the cat.

you don't need to quieten your car up any more, its already a heap quieter than mine. I ended up gutting my cat and did notice a bit of improvement (also made it even louder) but haven't put a pipe through it as it tapers in slightly and you can't get a bit of 3" through it! Not sure if its just mine or all cats are like this!

  • 4 weeks later...
blow flames and gain power - no cat!! :)

not necessarily. i use(d) race cats and i cant see any flames or have been pointed out by others that flames shoot out my exhaust or have i felt any power gains. just left a yellowish stain on my rear bumper.

not necessarily. i use(d) race cats and i cant see any flames or have been pointed out by others that flames shoot out my exhaust or have i felt any power gains. just left a yellowish stain on my rear bumper.

Well then you have to go harder then Duc...........I have a cat and blow flames, you can see them yourself in the corner of your eye.........well especially when there is a wall(hill) next to you!!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Who did you have do the installation? I actually know someone who is VERY familiar with the AVS gear. The main point of contact though would be your installer.   Where are you based in NZ?
    • Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
×
×
  • Create New...