Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey

just wondering if there is anyone that drifts there r33 gtst

Just wanted to query what power output are they making, and what mods they have done

I have seen the gold r33 ( with the PPG.COM.AU on the side), thats a competitor in the drift nationals ( was or still is)

and has alot of mods .

Not going to be going that far.

Im talkin about ppl that have minimal mods, that are in the drifting scene.

and how it performs on the track.

I have

PFC

FMIC

AVCR

Strut Brace

KYB shocks and lowered king springs

z32afm

Hiflow turbo (270 thrust bearing, bush bearing)

Walbro fuel pump

CES Racing Split dump

I havent done drifting b4, but want to get into it, and have a go

Thanks

Any info would be good

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/111482-any-r33-gtst-drifters-here/
Share on other sites

Hi Mate,

I drift mine... currently building it into a bit of a weapon to go take on the PPG Gearbox car, but once it was a little more stock than yours.

The biggest question that I would first ask before I offered any advice would be is it your daily driver?

Dan.

well at the moment, im only using the car on weekends

i have a datto ute, that its getting a ca18 put into it

I would like the r33 still to be a decent car to drive on the street

but no, i dont drive it everyday . Just on weeknds

i wouldnt imagine that it would be

im not wanting to go as far as, drift comps every weekend

just wanting to have a go at it, and wanting to speak to ppl that have minimal mods done and see how there r33 gtst goes and performs.

anything that they have felt or seen, or heard that r33's need improvement on to have a decent drift.

hey,

i drift my r33

mods are:

Stock Turbo

Stock Dump Pipe

Trust front pipe + Hks cat-back

D2 Coilovers (unknowned spring rate i think 6,8)

Profec A ebc (i've only run 0.6bar on drift days)

Air Filter

Fmic

Tomei fuel pump

RG castor rods

i still have stock LSD, i run 17inch(235) on the front and stock 16inch on the rear (215/225). I find with the stockers on the rear the car doesnt have much grip, i like my drift setup to be grippy, so i've swap to 17inch on the rear but have yet to drift the car with the 17's

I find wiht 0.6 bar i have enought power to drift, the limiting factor in my car is my LSD and it is very worn and its hard to hold/controll drifts most of the time it just die in the ass and the car goes from sideways to straight in a few seconds.

the Perth drift track has some big turns and i find the bigger turns harder to drift due to the LSD. the small turns are ok

I've link 3turns (smaller one).

My methods of drifting are;

-Brake drifting (larger turns) hit the turn at 140 then hit brake hard let it kick out and try and controll with gas

-Handbrake, this works really well on the smaller turns (never try on the big ones); depending how long you hold it depends on the angle of you drift

or else i just uses the weight of the car, quick turn just a few seconds before i hit the turn works well..

Their is another R33 drifting in perth, the dude has very similar mods to me (i think he may have an aftermarket lsd now not sure) and he drifts pretty good, he has a hicas lockbar and recommends i get one.

So basicly you dont have to have an aftermarket turbo to drift an r33.

I daily driver my r33. The coilovers are abit bumpy (they are track spec d2) but you get use to the ride and can turn them down to soft when your not at the track. Also if you RUN-IN an aftermarket LSD right, it is pretty daily driver frendinly (mate has a kaaz 2way in his 86 and we ran it in just like it told us and it hardly make a sound)

my tips

-2way lsd (kaaz/nismo/cusco)

-Good suspension, something with a spring rate like 6,8 or 8,10

-Hicas Lockbar

- airfilter, ebc, full-turbo back exhuast, PFC, fuel pump (which you have most of)

I also find adding 2 to 3degress of camber to the front really helps (you will need aftermarket upper/lower arms to add more than 2)

castor rods also add more turing in which help (im currently running only 5degress as my tie-rods need to be replaced but once that is done im looking to run 7-8degress)

I run 1 - 1.5 toe out

I have a 350rwhp setup for the car but have changed my mind and not putting it on,as i want to learn to drift good with a stocky power figure (200-250rwhp)

Hope i've help, if you need anymore help, you can pm i will try my best to help you :no:

p.s good to see another r33 get out their and try to drift

Cheers Michael :(

sounds pretty good

so pretty much get, aftermarket LSD, castor rods and aftermarket upper and lower arms. and change camber.

I'll give a crack first off and see how i go, then if i really like it 'i'll start getting some stuff .

Thanks for the info guys

hi all i drift my r33 gtst at wanneroo in perth, if yor looking for s little mods as possible mine is a good example. my mods are stock motor, turbo, ecu, lsd, i have a turbo back exhaust, front mount and heavy duty clutch i only run 0.6 bar of boost. as far as handling mods all i have is a front strut brace and lowered springs and thas it. i competed in the last comp in perth and placed 6th all though i have no idea how. all the best hope you have fun.

a couple of pics for you :sweat:

http://www.highoctanephotos.com/index.php?...bnails&album=76

What Micheal says id pretty close to the mark. :sweat:

If it is a Daily driver I would suggest against the aftermarket LSD, if it is a mechanically locking diff, as firstly they are illegal in some states, NSW I'm am pretty sure is one. A nice tight viscous one will do the trick, or even a new Nissan one.

Aside from that, you should be able to learn to drift with a pretty stock car, but you will eventually be able to outdrive your car.

Learn some techniques for drifting, clutch kicking, handbrake entries, use lower gears until you get the angles to go up cogs. Stock cars can be drifted, if you drive accordingly, and to be honest I am glad I have learnt to out drive my old car set up first, because it has given me a greater understanding of how to drift and I have learnt lots of ways to get it slideways and hold it out!

If you have any specifec questions please throw them up... I will be happy to try and answer them.

Dan.

hi all i drift my r33 gtst at wanneroo in perth, if yor looking for s little mods as possible mine is a good example. my mods are stock motor, turbo, ecu, lsd, i have a turbo back exhaust, front mount and heavy duty clutch i only run 0.6 bar of boost. as far as handling mods all i have is a front strut brace and lowered springs and thas it. i competed in the last comp in perth and placed 6th all though i have no idea how. all the best hope you have fun.

a couple of pics for you :P

http://www.highoctanephotos.com/index.php?...bnails&album=76

hey michael :P

its michael here too (grey r33 from the drift pract days) if your still interested in the kaaz lsd i may be able to still get you one, send us a pm when you a time.

and good work on the drift comp :)

  • 6 months later...

Hey back again

slowly gettin stuff for my car, and is goin to be setup fairly soon to have a crack at drifting

I have now puchased these things to be put on and have tuned.

z32 afm

oil cooler kit

oil catch can

555cc nismo injectors

aerospeed ex cam gear

nismo fuel reg

new timing belt

hicas lock bar

Hopefully november i'll have all this put on

Currently running 12 psi and have 306rwhp

Lookin at purchasing hks coilovers, lower and upper arms

tie end rods

aftermarket castor rods

pineapples

Then should be pretty much right hopefully .

Any will let yas know when everything is done

  • 3 weeks later...

sounds like everyone is steering u in the right direction.

i try to drift my 33, was doing well until i hit mallala wall like 6-7 months ago. been rebuilding ever since.

mine makes 360rwkw at 1.7 bar, i dont run it that hard tho, i run 1.2 bar and il find out wat that makes wen im a the dyno tuner monday for the final test.

there an awesome machine to drift tho

i have one query about the pineapples

i purhcased a set of Bee*R pineapples from ebay about a week ago

and noticed that they larger ones both have slits in them,

and i think i have read that to install to have drift setup that one of the smal ones have to have a slit in it and the larger doesn't.

Whats the go, will it still work??

Can anyone let us know which way to install them, and any pics?

Thanks

You basicly need to drop the cradle out of the car and put the 4 in the top of the cradle and then the 4 in the under side of the cradle. they stop the cradle bushes from moving. Never done it but that is my understanding.

We refabricated our cradle with no bushes and lots of adjustments.

  • 1 year later...

Very Interesting thread. Its good to see the R33 has got some backup within the drift scene, ive actually come from a S14 and was always considering going back to a S14/S15 Streetcar/Drifter Setup but ive always had doubt with SR20DETs

Ive had my R33 GTS-T and i feel the RB25 is a much stronger/reliable motor and being 6'3 basically a nicer car to drive.

good to see there is becoming more backup within the R33 Drift Arena.

  • 3 weeks later...

Hey sorry I didnt get onto this thread earlier. I owned and competed in my PPGEARBOX/ Martini racing R33. Look like these guys have a fair idea whats needed to slide the big ol boats.

Big rubber lots of grip and plenty of torque is good thing to have. (I ran an RB30 with the 25 head on board)

update on my car ,

havent been able to do much for 2007 (been a shit year), have had some issues with my licence and etc. haha

i am in the middle now of rebuilding a rb25 engine with ACL forged 20 thou pistons, race bearings, and spool rods. Slight port and polish with performance valve springs.

CAr is in the shop at the moment getting these parts installed and made

custom high mount with a gt30r turbo and turbosmart 44mm gate.

Custom plenum with xf throttle body.

car will be finished with these parts on the weekend, then just a matter of putting in the radiator and connecting everything up.

Will put rebuilt engine in when i have sometime.

So i am probably be looking next year to have a go at drifting on the track.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
×
×
  • Create New...