Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All,

Just got a couple of questions regarding the car.

1) When you are driving the manual, do you slow down using the gears and the brakes, or do you just use the brakes?

2) Also, there is a small leakage under the car - it feels like water/oil sorta mix - dad thinks it could be the coolant piping. Is this a major concern - or can I wait for another 2 or 3 weeks before i take it to the dealer(im getting some new lights for the car in about 3 weeks from japan - and the dealer is taking care of that)?

thanx all

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/111698-leaking-and-driving/
Share on other sites

i'd be very careful when leaking and driving, you don't want to miss the bottle and get piss all over your car :)

sorry, just saw the title and couldn't help myself.

in regards to the leaking, i found a leaking coolant line and replaced it in my 33. if you have just bought the car from a dealer, i would definately take it straight back to them and make them find the problem and fix it.

I normally change down either block change or through each gear if I am aware of the requirement to stop or slow down in advance. If a set of lights turn amber quickly, tend to just brake. I much prefer using gears which stems from driving in poor road conditions a lot of the time with either a fair amount of standing water or ice/snow.

With the leak, I would check all the visable checkable points to keep an eye on the levels. Have you tried tracing the leak on the underneath of the car. Could it just be air conditioning condensation with a small oil leak? Try and follow it up the hoses to the point of where it is coming from. And also depends how much you drive it, once a week out of the garage or everyday for an hour to work?

i'd be very careful when leaking and driving, you don't want to miss the bottle and get piss all over your car :D

sorry, just saw the title and couldn't help myself.

lmao! Yeah sorry, I didnt quite know how to word it, cos I had 2 questions to ask. But thanks for the info guys :D

I have been keeping tabs on it, the line in the coolant reservoir (next to the windscreen washer tank) has been decreasing - thats what lead my dad to believe that its a leak in the coolant piping. The Aircon work as just done before - a couple of weeks after i bought the car - but I havent been using the aircon much. Anyway, I will talk to Wayne and see if he can have a look at it for me.

When learning to drive they teach you to gear down, not to hold the clutch in and just use the brakes. Not to sure why it is. I tend to gear down and brake at the same time, the more you drive the easier it is. I think it's always better to be in gear just incase you even need to take off again.

With the leak, degrease the whole engine bay, wash it down being carefull of elecronics and trace the leak. Small thing left unchecked can turn into big probems.

:D

Well, took it to GTAuto today, and it seems that the leak is coming from the water pump. So Wayne and Jarod are gonna take care of that for me. But for now, Im driving a 1989 Benz 260E - boy i miss my skyline....:rolleyes:

Oh well, she should be back by wednesday or thursday :D

as per usual, wayne and jarrod from GTAuto did a fantastic job - the car is back in the garage, and she drives fantastic! They also changed the timing belt too. The water pump was covered by the warranty and I paid 100 for the timing belt!

WOOHOO!! I GOT THE CAR BACK!!!! :laugh:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...