Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Not sure if anyone has said this yet... But have you taken a look at the solenoid? Mine was doing that about 5 days back... I real loud ticking, I was left wondering what the hell it was - so i adjusted the IEBC a little an it was gone. But yeah the solenoid makes a very loud ticking!

Not sure if anyone has said this yet... But have you taken a look at the solenoid? Mine was doing that about 5 days back... I real loud ticking, I was left wondering what the hell it was - so i adjusted the IEBC a little an it was gone. But yeah the solenoid makes a very loud ticking!

wot solenoid?

the boost solenoid

wtf is that? And why wood it fu after a plug and oil change.??

remember i'm talkin bout a 13.

Edited by 66yostagea
wtf is that? And why wood it fu after a plug and oil change.??

remember i'm talkin bout a 13.

Sounds like something (and I don't know what) was stuck and after the extra additive was freed, might have just been a coincidence though and could have come good on it's own... Keep thrashing it and I'm sure it will come back sooner or later then you'll know for sure! :) Sounds like it is internal though, close to impossible to diagnose at this point.

As for the Manifold nuts going missing (mentioned a couple of months back sorry) the nuts are stainless steel and they use them so they don't seize on themanifold, so you can get it off without snapping all the studs off. Down side is that they can come loose and even fall off after a while so that is probably the explanation for missing nuts on various manifolds... Mine were loose on the turbo manifold and were causing an exhaust leak that was a scream at higher rpm but it developed into a leak at lower and lower rpm as time passed, tightened the nuts and all fixed.

Don't know enough about the S13 Turbo system to comment on the boost solenoid, you have one on the Stagea though, check out the boost control thread in the DIY's for more info. Basically 2 satge boost is standard on the RB25DET.

Cheers

Luke

Edited by munchdesign

Thanks for that Luke.

With the S.S nuts ,the S.S has a greater rate of thermal expanstionthansteel.After heating and coling many hundreds of times they start to work loose,

Thanks for that Luke.

With the S.S nuts ,the S.S has a greater rate of thermal expanstionthansteel.After heating and coling many hundreds of times they start to work loose,

No worries,

Does being S.S make them softer too?

sure its not your fuel injectors mate? i know mine are noisy. was curious about the clicking myself, had a good listen, sourced it to the fuel rail, and there you go.

(tappets in an overhead cam engine...? eh?)

and stainless steel is harder, but more brittle. The softer steel bolts are more maleable, would screw in and the thread would move slightly as you tighten, to form a really tight snug fit to whatever youre screwing it into.

stainless, being harder, doesnt do this as much. being harder and less maleable lowers the risk of shearing the head off when you undo it after 10 years, but means that it doesnt sit quite as snug, and can rattle out.

this is also why stainless steel exhausts can crack after a few years, but sound better.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
×
×
  • Create New...