Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 48
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Airflow is all 100%.

With the R33 Airflow correction table it wouldn't idle, unsure why as its running everything R33, being the airflow curve, maps, etc..

With regards to afm voltage, it peaks at 4330mv, being 4.33v. ;)

Running the std afm that would be around 5 to 5.1v.

I've attached a tuned vs untuned compare map.

The red indicates leaned off.

For example if the initial value is 1.000 the modified value is 0.996 the compare map will indicate a red value of 4. Derived from 1.000 - 0.996 = 0.004.

unsure what the +19 value is at load point 9 rpm N06. Possibly a tuning slip up. :D

An hour was only spent working on light load so it isn't a perect tune, the other hour was trouble shooting. :P

The tunes rough enough for now. No point spending big $$ (500-600) on a nice tune when there's bigger turbo's to come and will most likely require a map resolution (map reference) change. :D

post-382-1144475190.gif

Well I went for a long drive today. Did 230km's and used 1/2 a tank of fuel. Now I was driving normally for about 80% of the drive, I did some overtaking and saw 160-170k a few times... and the first 1/6 of the drive was actually a hill climb up a local range where I just couldn't help myself playing chase with someone in an evo 4 and occasionally hit around 5500 rpm at 16lb. Incidently this is about 10-11ms pulse width on the injectors. I also sat on about 120k's for 3/4 of the trip home.

Relivent details for the engine are.... RB20DET 100% internall stock, GT25 BB 400, 0.64 compressor, 0.7 turbine, Wolf ecu, front mount IC. My GTS4 has a manual gtr gearbox too, not the auto.

Here's my current map settings approx...As a lot of you use MAF instead if MAP sensors i'll translate to PSI and you can all work it out from that...

Below 2000 RPM...

0 PSI - 14.2

-5 in-hg - 14.0

-10in-gh - 13.8:1 (going slightly rich here really helped make the throttle response snappy.

-18in-hg 14.2 to 13.8 depending if aircon is on at idle, and about 14.0 when cruising.

Above 2000 RPM

2psi - 14.2:1

0psi - 14.7:1

-5in-hg - 15:1

-10in-gh - 15.5:1

-15in-hg - 16:1

-20in-hg - 0:1 (0ms fuel value)

Ignition advance was at 36 degrees. at 0 psi and increases to a max of 38 or 42 under vacuum. I can't remember exactly how far it advances.

I am also using decceleration En-leanment. The reverse of a throttle pump setting to lean things during negative throttle movements, which is one of the advances settings for economy tuning the wolf.

Closed loop operation was disabled for the whole drive.

The resutls... All in 5th gear.

Peak cruise power was found to be at about -5hg on the boost gauge at 100-105k's in 5th gear on level ground. The injector pulse width maxed out at about 2.40ms to 2.45ms. This was while at a 15.5:1 AFR.

Increasing speed to 110k's increased the fuel requirement to about 2.6ms and the resulting change to 14.7:1 AFR at 0 PSI.

Finally at 120k's the fuel requirement increased further to 2.8ms and again maintained around 14.7:1 AFR at 0 PSI.

So, I think with this tune if I were able to keep my right foot under control (or install a throttle stop) I could possibly see 500k's with this tune.

I'll post the actual map up tomorrow.

I'll have to also see how things go this next week with driving around town economy. Results will be posted.

Cheers,

Ian

Well the wolf uses a setting called Transient Delcel Enleanment. It does the reverse of a throttle pump and reduces fuel delivered to the engine during deceleration.

Eg... SUppose you are cruising at 100k's and start to go down a slight incline, you remove your foot slightly from the accelerator to maintain the same road speed. The wolf will reduce fuel delivery a pre-set amount for a preset limit, exactly the same as a carburators throttle pump would add fuel during acceleration, but reverse. This keeps reduces un-necessary overfueling while the ecu settles on a new RPM/MAP sensor position on the fuel map.

Remember the reason for transient enrichment in a carburator is to deliver extra fuel to stop hesitation during sudden throttle position changes, while map or maf sensors settle on a new load setting. Transient ENLEANMENT does the opposite to concerve fuel.

I also use Over run fuel cut, which is meant for when your rolling down a hill and take your foot off the accelerator. Above 1600 RPM and at 0 throttle the ecu stops all fuel delivery and lets the engine naturally reduce engine speed. Its also used between gear shifts.

You turn both these off if you want to maintain boost better between gear shifts and are racing or something.

Hope that helps...

Cheers,

Ian.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...