Jump to content
SAU Community

Correct wheel specs for an R34 GT + Z-Tune bodykit

Hafidel36

By Hafidel36,
in Suspension, braking and tyres

 Share

Recommended Posts

Hafidel36 Apprentice

Hafidel36

Posted
Posted

Hello all,

I have brought my R34 to the bodyshop to get the Z-Tune bodykit fitted. This also includes the rear overfenders. My wheel situation always was a bit rough so was wondering what theoretically would be the best option.

I was running 18", 8,5J ET35 all around with 20mm spacers in the back and 5 mm spacers in the front. (from memory, the car is at the bodyshop so can't verify) It was pretty tight as the car was also lowered, but I also noticed the fenders being rolled to make this fit.

Now I don't really know how much wider the overfenders will make the car, but I believe it's around 50 mm per side in the back and 20 mm per side in the front. 

I am not so familiar with all these calculations so I was hoping someone could verify some numbers and advise on what kind of wheel numbers I should be looking at to get a correct fitment without spacers (or as minimal as possible). I would like to keep 18".

I don't think I can compare it with a GT-R because I don't think the track width is the same.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Kinkstaah Grand Master

Kinkstaah

Posted
Posted

It's ~20mm on each side over the GTT. It depends on your ride height and whether you are cutting fenders at the back to fit the kit, because the inside metal guard will remain the same dimensions as stock, unless it is pulled out, or cut out.

Further to that, it really depends on what you consider "good specs" to be.

The real answer is measure. I've got the same kit and the same plans - And I've taken measurements... but I won't be taking final measurements until the bodykit is actually on the car, and I can measure it while it's on the ground because +2mm in theory may not be 2mm in practice, and that can ruin everything.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Hafidel36 Apprentice

Hafidel36

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks Kinkstaah, will do just that. I was hoping to get some theory behind it and start looking for some good deals! But the best idea is to just be patient I guess..

 

Thanks!

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
Kinkstaah Grand Master

Kinkstaah

Posted
Posted

Yeah in my case I took my current wheels (18x9+30) and simply made some measurements to add +20mm to the outside edge of both.

I also noticed the inside edge of the rears has about 30-50mm of space. The front has like 0.1mm to the arm as it stands.

This leads to 18x10 +17 at the front, and something weird like 18x11+35 at the back. No wheels exist in these measurements which is why I'll have to go custom - And definitely measure and test some other wheels first.

By my maths 18x10.5+15 at the front should absolutely poke.

Yet it's a common size for the front of 33/34 GTR's, it could be:

1) it needs more low and more camber to fit
2) the rim actually pokes in all these setups
3) the geometry is different

Or all of the above. Which is why I'm waiting before I buy things...

Link to comment
Share on other sites
  • 2 months later...
Kinkstaah Grand Master

Kinkstaah

Posted
Posted

That looks great, and I'm envious of your front bar fitment after having 'fun' with mine right now.

I still don't understand the maths, because the new rear should poke 20mm further out than the new fronts do, but unless the rear got flared out 20mm more than the fronts did.. or you made a typo.

Does look great though!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • sonicii
      Newbies

      By sonicii · Posted

      215/45/18 tyres are probably a little on the low side compared to the factory tyre, it should be closer to a 245/45/19, which will get you about an extra 11mm of height, and should make you speedo read a bit closer to reality. 245/45/19s will be a bit too far the other way and you risk a speeding ticket as your speedo might read slower than your actual speed.  245/40/19s would be correct if you are going to 19in rims, they will give you a similar total diameter to the 245/45/18 tyres.  
    • GTSBoy
      Rear suspension upgrades

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      That's something I forgot to put in my list. The aggressive anti-squat in R32 is a f**king menace. I still need to decide if I'm going to drag the subframe out of my car and weld in the GKTech corrector kit. The main reason to dither is the need to switch to spherical joints in the lower arm to account for the twist induced in the rear pivot caused by lowering the front pivot. And yes...we do put better subframes in R32s, and I wish I'd gotten an S14 one instead of an A31 when I did the "take off and nuke it from orbit" HICAS delete all those years ago.
    • HYBRID VL
      V37 Alarm settings and what the buttons do.

      By HYBRID VL · Posted

      I have been looking at some setting on the alarms for the Q60 and what buttons do and so and also been looking for details on the alarm in my V37 which is a standard issue with the car. settings like window roll up and a few others seem to not work at all. i cant seem to find exact info on V37 alarms so Q60 is all i can really go off i have not tried 400Z alarm settings or info yet so that will be next. any one got like a sheet of info on the alarm system in the V37 as all my documents are in japanese but i thought the system would basically be like standard through similar models? 
    • r32-25t
      R32 Gtr Long Term Love, Now Project

      By r32-25t · Posted

      I had a fuel smell coming from the drivers rear and pulled the tank out to inspect where it was coming from, turns out the breather hose from the tank to the filler neck was perished. I’m going to Japan next week and I’ll grab it while I’m there  pulled the oil tank apart and started cleaning this crap out of it, some brake cleaner and rags got it looking new again 
    • GTSBoy
      Creative in cabin amp locations

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Hmm. Was quite a few years ago now. I think I bought from a crowd in the US called CDT Audio. The speaker is the HD-6. The HD-6CF would have been the better option (based on T-S parameters), but they were discontinued in 4 ohm at that point in time. The HD-6 is a better driver in almost every other way (than the CF) - just not as good in IB. They still do the HD-6. They might even have a more suitable (for IB) option here.https://www.cdtaudio.com/cdtnew22/products/components/woofers/midwoofers/midwoofers.htm But, here's the rub. I was working in the US a lot back then, so I got them delivered to my US office and then just brought them back to OZ myself. I don't know if they will ship to OZ, and it probably wouldn't be great cost-wise anyway. As to results. They're driven direct off the rear channels of my headunit, because the headunit can be setup to run the rears as subs. So, not a lot of power being fed there. Nevertheless, there's no shortage of volume - the sub levels don't need or want to be boosted at all. The bass is definitely not what you would call "tight". It is definitely a bit delayed compared to a proper sub. But, with the great front soundstage and really good 6.5" woofers in the front doors, I'm getting most of the bass detail from the front and the rear is really only to extend the bottom end a bit. Works for what I'm doing. I mean - until recently you couldn't really hold a conversation in my car due to the fuel pump, and for many years I had tyres so noisy (Kumho KU36 at <50 tread depth) that I had to drive with earplugs anyway!
×
×
  • Create New...