Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

if your looking for a good front stage i would recomended getting 6.5 inch splits.

as for brand go into your local car audio place and have a listen to a few diffrent ones and chose the one you like the best.

if you chose to get splits make sure you get an amp to utilise them.

mr 32

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/112700-32-speakers/#findComment-2077581
Share on other sites

yeah, definately go the 6.5" splits, just use some MDF and make a bracket for them and off you go...

as for brand, what mr 32 said, goto a car audio place and have a listen, make sure all the settings on the head unit you are testing off are set to flat, and the loud is off too, gives a better becuase you want the flat sound of the speaker to be the best sounding compared to othe ones, not the modified or bass boosted signal...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/112700-32-speakers/#findComment-2077619
Share on other sites

as long as you make sure the magnets are going to clear the window when it's down, 6.5" splits are very nice in the front, fit i there pretty easy too... my mtx's have heaps of room between the window and the magnet, kenwoods are pretty thin too, not sure about pioneer...

post-12416-1144420319.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/112700-32-speakers/#findComment-2079861
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Working through possible solutions of converting my mechanical speedo.    Anyone know what type of speedo sensor the factory r34 gtr getrag has ? what the output is ? I assume its not a VSS and more a voltage like earlier speedo sensors ? Can an ECU read it ?  
    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
×
×
  • Create New...