Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I am just new to the modification scene and just wondering if anyone can help me out with a few things. I have just bought an AutoMeter Water Temp gauge and obviously want to install. Just wondering if anyone knows and has possibly a picture of the location of the sender on the engine. My car is a '94 R33 GTS-T RB25DET.

Thanks

Edited by tdan
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/112743-water-temp-sender/
Share on other sites

you will need to get an adpater made/bought to allow you to put into the top hose thats between the radiator and the engine...

you'd need to cut a section out of the hose, and insert the adapter, then sela with hose clamps

you will need to get an adpater made/bought to allow you to put into the top hose thats between the radiator and the engine...

you'd need to cut a section out of the hose, and insert the adapter, then sela with hose clamps

craved, thanks for that. just wondering which hose to tap into to get proper/accurate water temp reading (upper or lower)

you want to know how hot the water is coming out of the engine, so its the top hose.

std water temp guage sender is in the top hose as well.

if you were putting it in the bottom one, all you would know is how well your radiator is working ..

  • 1 year later...
or is there another way like a t piece or put it directly near factory sender?

You don't want to remove the factory temp sender. It will wreak havoc with the ECU. The only way to do it is to have the adapter made up. I had mine made up at an exhaust place. It took them a little time but it works great and loogs good too. I had it chromed. What ever you do, don't spend the big money and buy one from. They are machined from too much on the sides and this causes them to crack and break. I also learnt this from experience.

Hope this helped.

i was talkin about these today and aparently they will give you an incorrect reading of engine temprature, but will give you a reading of water temp going through your radiator...

i was told for a accurate reading to put the temp sensor as close as you can to the heads, get a custom made t-piece to accomidate both factory and aftermarket unit or, in some cars there are bungs put in from the factory where they may have planned to put something there or for some other reason unknown...

but i think i will be happy to put the piece on the top radiator hose. temp there will be close enough to the heat made by/in the heads.

my bit

4dftn

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...