Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello to all,

Ive been a long time reader but first time poster, as I have just purchased an 1994 R33 GTS-t and I love it! It is completely stock except for some 3’ exhaust. I’m taking it to a mechanic to see what the state of the piping is in but other than that I have no idea where to start. My goal is low 13s high 12s so I need as much input as possible. Here is my plan:

1. Apexi pod filter angled down with CAI through a plastic pipe

2. FMIC although im not sure which brand to choose (I know I want GTR size)

3. boost controller

4. BOV (Im really amazed at the GFB deceptor incredddible) and I love the wound

5. here I got no idea….ECU upgrade?

Any input would be much appreciated but for now ill keep looking

Cheers

JaiJai

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/113029-vigin-r33/
Share on other sites

For low 13s you'll need a turbo upgrade.

For the FMIC you can get the cheap hybrid copy kits off Justjap for around $600. If you go JDM brand, be prepared to pay >$1000 brand new..

Stock BOV will do the job.

If you got for an atmo BOV you may cause stalling issues.

ECU upgrade most people go with Apexi PowerFC.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/113029-vigin-r33/#findComment-2084133
Share on other sites

Gday,

If you're new to this you probably won't want to do those things *if* you're just wanting a quicker time.

For example the BOV won't help you - probably cause more issues then not. The stock one is really quite good and skylines, especially the whale model r33's are really good at sounding great.

Your CAI + pod idea is a good start. The next would probably be making sure the exhaust is 3" from the turbo, not just the cat back.

As for the front mount you actually made a good point yourself. Get a GTR cooler! I'm using one and it's fantastic.

ECU upgrade you probably won't need for the moment. Search around, read up on stuff and you should be fine. P.S. there are plenty of threads of what to do up in what order too.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/113029-vigin-r33/#findComment-2084154
Share on other sites

Thank you all so far, Wink that is a tooooop car you have there verrry nice! Well i might forkout the extra $$$ and invest in a hybrid ive herd good things from them - i dunno about the justjap brand you think it does the job well enough?

Hmm well im all very new to all this so if I get the Apexi PowerFC and take it to a mechanic who can tune it for me thats a good start?

OK so...

1. ensure exhaust if 3' from back of turbo

2. Pod CAI

3. FMIC might look into how well justjap work

4. Apexi PowerFC

Sound good? Again thanks for the start cant wait to go on a cruise (from ACT)!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/113029-vigin-r33/#findComment-2084351
Share on other sites

Thanks JaiJai.

Steps should be:

1) 3" turbo back (including hi-flow cat)

2) Pod CAI or panel filter upgrade

3) Boost Controller

4) FMIC

5) ECU upgrade

I use a JustJap FMIC and it works great. There is some modifying to be done to make it fit well (probably not needed for JDM brands) but I've gotten 195rwkw out of it so I'm not complaining. :thumbsup:

When you get to step 5 you will have to start with things that don't actually add to power but are needed to run high power (eg injectors, fuel pump, better spark plugs)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/113029-vigin-r33/#findComment-2084396
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...