Jump to content
SAU Community

Modifying a R32

Guest sirmx6

By Guest sirmx6,
in New South Wales

 Share

Recommended Posts

Guest sirmx6

Guest sirmx6

Posted
Posted

Can anyone advise on what mods you would do to a R32 Gts-t and what you would expect them to do for the car.

Also, any facts or figures would be appreciated (power, acceleration etc)

Reason being is that i test drove one and they feel very very sluggish and not very quick.

Do they have ABS and 4WS ?? May be a little on the heavy side.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/11362-modifying-a-r32/
Share on other sites
Morgs Veteran

Morgs

Posted
Posted

They feel pretty slow stock. Stock for stock my GTiR is alot faster than my old R32.

kabab ran 14.2 with a stock turbo, 13psi and an exhaust on his R32 gtst as a benchmark.

Stock turbo is pretty restrictive, throw on a decent size huffer, say GT2530, pump, reg, cooler, should see 200-220rwkw on tune.

Have a look in the engine bay - some models were equipt with ABS, others not. They did come with 4WS (HICAS), but the best move would be to buy a removal kit... :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/11362-modifying-a-r32/#findComment-192095
Share on other sites
Driftn 180 Rising Star

Driftn 180

Posted
Posted

a stock r32 gts-t should pull a 14.5-14.7 preety easily.

fit a 3 inch zorst off the turbo, hi-flow air filter, FMIC, 14 psi, chiptoque chip or Apexi power fc, and your looking at approx 180kw@wheels, mayb more not sure, but at this power you will need a bigger clutch.

this should be good for a low 13 with street tyres

correct me if im wrong :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/11362-modifying-a-r32/#findComment-192192
Share on other sites
ultim8DTM5 Experienced

ultim8DTM5

Posted
Posted
Originally posted by Morgs

They feel pretty slow stock. Stock for stock my GTiR is alot faster than my old R32.

kabab ran 14.2 with a stock turbo, 13psi and an exhaust on his R32 gtst as a benchmark.

Stock turbo is pretty restrictive, throw on a decent size huffer, say GT2530, pump, reg, cooler, should see 200-220rwkw on tune.

Have a look in the engine bay - some models were equipt with ABS, others not. They did come with 4WS (HICAS), but the best move would be to buy a removal kit... :P

Nah GT2530 is too restrictive Morgs you give it too much credit. The GT2835R however is like that cereal, just right.

:)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/11362-modifying-a-r32/#findComment-192210
Share on other sites
d0p3y Grand Master

d0p3y

Posted
Posted

Yeah it's off of a 300ZX, alchemist is correct in reccomending this. If you search the General and Performance forums you will find a fair amount of information on this, as well as RB20DET/R32 GTS-t power upgrades and stuff =)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/11362-modifying-a-r32/#findComment-198005
Share on other sites
Guest alchemist

Guest alchemist

Posted
Posted

Yeah its from the 300 yeah it bolts straight up and no worries with anything. Standard computer is fine with it. The turbo is good for 1 bar (14.7psi) but dont go any higher or u will end up losing your exhaust wheel. Your next step will be to cool the air with a decent cooler.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/11362-modifying-a-r32/#findComment-198454
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • uchoa
      Yet another RB Neo misfiring thread after reading all the others.

      By uchoa · Posted

      Good tips, will get on those tomorrow. When doing the maintenance I did move a few of those connectors around, and things that are old tend to not like moving around. (Like me).
    • GTSBoy
      Yet another RB Neo misfiring thread after reading all the others.

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Don't try it. It will be shit. Better chance of damaging the engine than gaining any knowledge about the old one. Maybe, but unlikely, especially if the O2 sensor is working. You can use NissDataScan to look at the stock ECU.   Cleaning the AFM is seldom necessary and seldom helps. The R35 coil & loom conversion should eliminate dud coils or plugs. But as you still have misses - look to the plug where the coil loom connects to the engine loom, and the CAS plug. Need quality connections there. Also look to injector plugs. And the AFM plug while you're at it. Also look to whether your injectors are clean and flowing evenly. Get them out and onto a testbench.
    • uchoa
      Howdy from the states.

      By uchoa · Posted

      Good to know, I feel like I am in for a rollercoaster ride that looks like a sine wave. 
    • GTSBoy
      Howdy from the states.

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      You'll fit right in. Acceptance is the first step.
    • uchoa
      Yet another RB Neo misfiring thread after reading all the others.

      By uchoa · Posted

      Hey folks. I've been lurking and browsing the forum for a while, since I got into my head that I wanted a skyline. Having purchased an overpriced completely stock GTT, (only "mods" it has is HKS pod filter and catback) now that it became legal in the US, it was all glorious and sututu noises here and there. But then I wanted to do things right and went to do basic maintenance. After all the fluids, filters done, I did the spark plugs, that's when the problems started.. First the car started spluttering at around 4.5k RPM. Which I gapped down the new plugs and that solved the sputter there, but the car now always misfires at idle with pops when lifting off and shifting 2nd to 3rd. Similar to the issues in this recent thread. I've been banging my head against the wall, reading the threads here and trying suggestions for a couple months now, so decided to start this one to explain exactly what I tried and what is going on. The symptoms of the issue: Idle and low revs misfiring intermittently. You can hear the exhaust tone change and the shakes on the shifter knob. It happens frequently, but doesn't seem to have a rhythm to it. Pops when backing off throttle. It pops and or burbles almost feels like it spits fire when it pops. (Happens mostly in 3rd gear at around 2k RPM). When under load and after 6k RPM, it also pops when shifting from 2nd to 3rd. There's a ticking noise at around 2k RPM in 2nd gear going downhill, seems unrelated though but I am out of educated and downright dumb guesses. Not noticeable lack of power when putting the car into load. The attempted diagnosis and solutions: Unplugging coils when the car is running This did nothing to change the idling and tone shift for every cylinder. Checking the exhaust headers with thermometer They all are within what I'd say it is margin of error of the laser thermometer New spark plugs Tossed two new sets, copper, iridium and using the old ones, still misfiring, even re gapped to 0.8mm, still same thing. MAF cleaned with the "specific" spray cleaner No changes in the issues what so ever. Brand new loom and r35 coil conversion (was going to add the r35 coils anyway) car runs arguably better, still misfires, but seems like does less frequently. Placebo? Code 21 now being thrown, thanks nissan gods. Removed the CAS to check the shaft for play or anything. CAS seems all fine, nothing that indicates any issue, visually speaking. Things to attempted next: Ordered a new MAF (chinesium from Amazon, to be able to return regardless of result). Fuel with proper gas, maybe it is this California water that they sell as gas that is to blame? Plugin the link ECU and check the info using the built in base map. Go back to BMW and eat my rob bearing breakfast without milky oil mixture.   Do any of you have experienced anything like this or have any suggestion?
×
×
  • Create New...