Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

my r33 does this as well....

could be driving around, and then at a set of lights just *off*, doesnt sputter just turns off as if someone removed the key..

ive had 2 mechanics look at it, both pointed finger at my turbosmart type2 bov that i put on it... saying vacuum leak

so to prove that theory we hooked it up a smoke machine and no leaks were found... plus the problem was there with the standard bov also.

mechanic #1 - electrical problem most likely and need to go to nissan so they can wack there diagnostic computer on it to see where the issue is... (not many mechanics have these since the units cost $80k - hence why nissan service department you must go)

before i tried nissan, went to another mechanic and it had him scratching head also... he increased the idle a bit, that helped a small bit , so now instead of dieing 8/10 times its 5/10 times...

im considering ringing up nissan tomorrow (brisbane) and asking them about it, and also how i can go about fixing my odometer that just stopped :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/11363-r33-cutting-out/#findComment-192462
Share on other sites

mechanic #1 - electrical problem most likely and need to go to nissan so they can wack there diagnostic computer on it to see where the issue is... (not many mechanics have these since the units cost $80k - hence why nissan service department you must go)

bullshit! read, we don't know what we're doing so therefore we'll just tell you some b.s. to get you off our backs. The ECU itself has its own diagnostic mode that they probably don't even know about.

Take it to somewhere that knows skylines, and most likely they'll be able to fix the problem in an hour or so.

hey dstylez: what are you idling at? You can up the idle as a bit of a temporary measure until you can get it properly looked at.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/11363-r33-cutting-out/#findComment-192586
Share on other sites

Mario,

If its the same problem mine had, it would cut out at sets of lights, turning into a carpark, or just .. stop when it felt like.

I thought it was after I had just run it hard, but after a few experiments it just did it when it felt like. I also noted that everytime I would go down Marshall Road towards the freeway (the set of lights that actually sits under the freeway) it would cut out.

I took it to my trusty old mechanic [plug] GAVIN WOODS [/plug] and said "Gav.. car broken, fix." He said "Ok"

Ended up being that the throttle body gets clogged.

And what would you know, he fixed it and it doesn't cut out anymore! He was right! As usual :P

Soo this maybe your problem. It may not be. Apparently they are rumoured to have this problem.

Might be an idea to ring Gav and get him to check it out!

***********************************************

Just a question (after reading the rest of the posts) Did you buy your car from Streetmachines per chance :D

Uhm, my odometer stops when it turns over to the next 10,000k's. This is a sign of wear in the odometer gears (usually meaning the car's odo has been wound back quite a bit). Gav fixed mine too. Although, cause its worn, it stops every 10,000k's and clicks over when it feels like it. It eventually moves....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/11363-r33-cutting-out/#findComment-192630
Share on other sites

ok theres another thought on the subject, ill keep that one in mind...

im going to do the different wiring setup on the fuel pump that i read in another thread to keep it operating at 100% instead of it dropping down when it hits 500-800rpm and see what result this achieves ... failing that ill tackle the same possible problem as you had ..

thanks for the info..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/11363-r33-cutting-out/#findComment-192635
Share on other sites

who is this gavin woods that fixed your odometer ??

i cant find any record of him in white pages at all , so either he's a very private small person or just not added..

id be very interested in having him look at my odometer and getting it working again, if he has done same for you previously..

thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/11363-r33-cutting-out/#findComment-192713
Share on other sites

mechanic #1 - electrical problem most likely and need to go to nissan so they can wack there diagnostic computer on it to see where the issue is... (not many mechanics have these since the units cost $80k - hence why nissan service department you must go)

ive had my car on one of these before however it wasnt at a nissan dealer.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/11363-r33-cutting-out/#findComment-192763
Share on other sites

My car was stalling too, I have a ATMO Bov. I knew it wasn't just the Bov so I took it too Just Jap in Sydney...They have the computer to plug into the ECU...

The ECU said that the power steering sending wasn't working, replaced and all good.

if the sender is rooted it won't adjust the revs for the steering, thus when you on low revs, like when your turning into a car park...the engine will stall becuase of the load from the power steering...

just something else to check.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/11363-r33-cutting-out/#findComment-192945
Share on other sites

Dstylez, I had a similar problem, can you tell me, when it happened were you slowing down, gunning it, or stopped? When it didn't have the problem, and you would come to a stop, would the revs severely dip down and then stabilise? What's your fuel economy like? If you can answer these for me then it might be similar to mine and if I can, i'll let you know what I did to fix mine.

Cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/11363-r33-cutting-out/#findComment-195797
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...