Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 49
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I see that some one knows him and he had a VN S-pac before the cuffy :) THIS IS THE PROBLEM some one talked him into getting an import after he got sick of getting his ass handed to him by cars with smaller engines. NO COMMODORE DRIVER SHOULD EVER EVER EVER BE ABLE TO BUY AN IMPORT there f**ked in the head bad enough as it is with a shitty commodore that has no real power, giving him an import the results here only a matter of time. I drive an R31 with a RB20DET silver top conversion, GTR brakes, S13 steering and D2 drift suspension and I keep the car looking as stock as I can on the out side because people like this cock smoker think that they can dodge the law forever. I know lots of people with nice imports that WILL NOT take them out at night because they know that they will be pulled over up to 12 times in one outing. I started with an 1982 SE sigma sedan 5 speed manual and the 2.6ltr 4 banger and went to the state forest to learn how to drift on deserted gravel roads. After 3 years of rallying the sigma it finaly through a piston out the engine and I got an EB S-pac falcon because it was really cheap at the time, and started to drag with it as you couldn't rally a falcon like that :D but I soon realized that street drags are for noobs with no real driving abilities other then put it in drive and put your foot on the excellerator, at least I had the decency to do a 5 speed manual conversion to it. So I decided that drifting was a disiplin that required a good car and a good driver and thats what I was looking for so I got the R31 being the cheepest nissan I could find at the time that could have an RB20 conversion done and started doing mount runs up and down training every night of the week to become the best driver I could without professional instruction. Then you see f**ktards like this that think there f**king shit hot that bring the heat down on the lot of us just for having an imported car and it realy boils my blood. I have made some bad decisions in the past that have cost me my licence 5 times and I HATE traffic cops with a passion but I've also come to the conclution that if you like to race then do it on a track or at least some where fare away from other people and late at night or early in the morning. I hope this person never drives again.

Edited by R31 D2
I see that some one knows him and he had a VN S-pac before the cuffy :ermm: THIS IS THE PROBLEM some one talked him into getting an import after he got sick of getting his ass handed to him by cars with smaller engines. NO COMMODORE DRIVER SHOULD EVER EVER EVER BE ABLE TO BUY AN IMPORT there f**ked in the head bad enough as it is with a shitty commodore that has no real power, giving him an import the results here only a matter of time. I drive an R31 with a RB20DET silver top conversion, GTR brakes, S13 steering and D2 drift suspension and I keep the car looking as stock as I can on the out side because people like this cock smoker think that they can dodge the law forever. I know lots of people with nice imports that WILL NOT take them out at night because they know that they will be pulled over up to 12 times in one outing. I started with an 1982 SE sigma sedan 5 speed manual and the 2.6ltr 4 banger and went to the state forest to learn how to drift on deserted gravel roads. After 3 years of rallying the sigma it finaly through a piston out the engine and I got an EB S-pac falcon because it was really cheap at the time, and started to drag with it as you couldn't rally a falcon like that :) but I soon realized that street drags are for noobs with no real driving abilities other then put it in drive and put your foot on the excellerator, at least I had the decency to do a 5 speed manual conversion to it. So I decided that drifting was a disiplin that required a good car and a good driver and thats what I was looking for so I got the R31 being the cheepest nissan I could find at the time that could have an RB20 conversion done and started doing mount runs up and down training every night of the week to become the best driver I could without professional instruction. Then you see f**ktards like this that think there f**king shit hot that bring the heat down on the lot of us just for having an imported car and it realy boils my blood. I have made some bad decisions in the past that have cost me my licence 5 times and I HATE traffic cops with a passion but I've also come to the conclution that if you like to race then do it on a track or at least some where fare away from other people and late at night or early in the morning. I hope this person never drives again.

thats a big paragraph :huh:

  • 3 months later...

i think people have got it a bit mixed up about the losing 121 points. he didn't lose them all of the 1 licence. it is actually quite easily done. lose all 12 points in a mater of a few months. hand your licence in for 3 months, get it back and start over. all of this can be done without going to court once. it doesn't take much to lose 12 points. get caught doing 71 in a 60 zone, there's 3 points gone. fail to stop at a stop sign, there's another 3. do a burnout on a bit of road with double white lines and get a cranky cop and you get done for dangerous driving, undue noise, crossing double white lines and there's the rest of the licence gone and a few extra points ontop of that.

i don't condone it in anyway, but it is much easier to lose that many points than it seems. i live 200km from brissy and if i did a day trip to brissy and sat on 125kmh (to keep up with the flow of the rest of the traffic) the whole way (110kmh zone most of the way) and ran through 2 cameras each way (could happen, 1 just outside of town where i live, and 1 just outside brissy) that would be my licence gone (12 points) in a matter of 4 hours in the car. would that make me a super hoon?

on a slightly different note, i had a mate that was pulled over 96 times in 6 months, and not booked once. he worked at maccas and started at 5am most mornings. he lived about 3km from maccas. it was usually for rbt's. once he got pulled over 20m out of his driveway.

Think if you lived that far away and where getting harassed that much just walk the 30mins and get fit.

My best effort was 3times for RBT's in 25minutes on the way too work after some public holiday, turned a 25minute trip into 45minutes... :O

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Stock ECU (or more accurately stock tune) absolutely refuses to go over 10psi and behaves like you have seen. The Nistune is the same if it is the stock tune. If the Nistune chip has been tuned, the resulting tune could be literally anything for any combination of parts. The Nistune just makes the stock ECU Tunable.
    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
×
×
  • Create New...