Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well first off. Happy Easter SAU members!

Well what have you got up to over the long weekend?? For the last two days ive been under my car installing some new goodies.

New mods done:

Just Jap type 2 FMIC kit.

Stainless twin dump and front pipe 3inch (from Batmbl)

Highflow Catco Cat

Just jap strut brace

--Boost now set at 10psi--

Other parts to put in are:

Bosch 040 fuel pump

Boost gauge

post-8676-1145175019.jpg

post-8676-1145175036.jpg

post-8676-1145175049.jpg

Yeh the kit fitted pretty good. I didnt have to trim the blades but.

What I have to do is.

Trim bumper frame at the back.

Trim the front bar (as you can see)

Drill one hole for the piping.

One thing i would like the kit to have is a pipe from the turbo outlet, that is better then the stock one.

The just jap kit uses the stock pipe for this.

Oh I havent got any pics of the exhaust but its was pretty simple to install (once the old rusty one was off).

Does anyone know where the best place to put the boost controller on to. It used togo on the stock pipe out of the turbo but the JJ kit doesnt have a nipple on it. ATM I "T" ed it off at the BOV but its not working properly. I think the BOV effects it.

Well sofar its fine. The kit looks like good quality and is all polished up. You can feel the difference after a good thrash in the temps of the piping and the end tanks.

Just 2 things I would like to change.

1. Put a nipple on the out pipe of the IC for the boost controller

2. Ditch the stock out pipe from the turbo and replace with a manrel bent Stainless one.

I'm thinking about getting one of these justjap intercoolers too. Any problems with it so far? Probably a bit early to be asking! :(

Would you recommend one of these???

Well sofar its fine. The kit looks like good quality and is all polished up. You can feel the difference after a good thrash in the temps of the piping and the end tanks.

Just 2 things I would like to change.

1. Put a nipple on the out pipe of the IC for the boost controller

2. Ditch the stock out pipe from the turbo and replace with a manrel bent Stainless one.

1. the boost controller goes in between the hose from the actuator to the outlet of the turbo(compressor cover where says garett ,nothing to do with blow off valve ,

2. why ?

I know it goes on the outlet of the turbo but there is no nipple to attach it to.

If you have a look at the pipe out of the turbo its got a realy bad bend 90degrees. A larger manrel bend here wouldn't hurt

1. the boost controller goes in between the hose from the actuator to the outlet of the turbo(compressor cover where says garett ,nothing to do with blow off valve ,

2. why ?

Edited by drewr33
run the boost control from the plenum.. will give less drop in the positive pressure reading.

the r33 turbo does not have the outlet on the turbo itself.

the r32 turbo has this outlet..

Would it be a problem if its connected with the BOV

Like in this pic?

post-8676-1145259694.jpg

wouldn't see an issue with it, just make sure it seals REALLY well .. use cable ties on your joins and should be fine..

check all teh hoses for any cracks, or just use new ones.. cos if it leaks your boost will spike and you'll have big issues..

Ok cool thanks mate.

One thing ive noticed with the BOV is at no boost it doesnt go off anymore.. you just here the turbo flutter sound. But when on boost it does the normal sound. Im guessing its due to the new intercooler.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Stock ECU (or more accurately stock tune) absolutely refuses to go over 10psi and behaves like you have seen. The Nistune is the same if it is the stock tune. If the Nistune chip has been tuned, the resulting tune could be literally anything for any combination of parts. The Nistune just makes the stock ECU Tunable.
    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
×
×
  • Create New...