Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well its up to you. You can go with your standard block, but I dont like that idea. Nissan ran endurance tests on 05u and 24u blocks. They found 9/10 standard blocks cracked after 2000kms of testing on 05u blocks. 0/10 24u n1 blocks cracked after this endurance testing.

I dont care what you say, but have a look at this. It should convince you otherwise.

gt1.jpg

A comparison with a gt and a 05u block. I know I certainly would not go for an 05u if i was running 86.5 or 87mm bore, or even running big power through it.

And 'Doughboy's' block is gone, and will be in my capable hands on thursday :spank:

Just a bit more

Consider running an 86.5mm bore. That gives you just under 5mm wall thickness on either side of the piston, with an n1 block. Although I dont know the wall thickness of a standard block, based on the pictures, they look to be about half that of the gt block. Assuming that, you only have a 3mm wall thickness with a 86 mm bore and less than that if you go 86.5mm. Carrying around 100hp per cylinder, i wouldnt trust it to last terribly long with less than 3mm of wall thickness at those sorts of cylinder pressures.

Food for thought I suppose. Does anyone know the standard block wall thickness ???

Just a bit more

Consider running an 86.5mm bore. That gives you just under 5mm wall thickness on either side of the piston, with an n1 block. Although I dont know the wall thickness of a standard block, based on the pictures, they look to be about half that of the gt block. Assuming that, you only have a 3mm wall thickness with a 86 mm bore and less than that if you go 86.5mm. Carrying around 100hp per cylinder, i wouldnt trust it to last terribly long with less than 3mm of wall thickness at those sorts of cylinder pressures.

Food for thought I suppose. Does anyone know the standard block wall thickness ???

Another interesting point is that Nissan had a recall on 05U blocks due to them leaking coolant between 3&4 above the oil boss.

But every casting is different, so I guess with blocks, it is the luck of the draw.

But, ask Darren from Just Jap how long an 05U block lasts him in his Targa car, and he wouldn't be running more than about 500hp.

Tommy amd Mik you both been reading to many books, just listen to the pro above , dont worry about Nismo, how would they know what they are doing ?

Well i dont know about you Tommy but i know Mik hasn'tand still doesn't read or buy any books!!

Well its up to you. You can go with your standard block, but I dont like that idea. Nissan ran endurance tests on 05u and 24u blocks. They found 9/10 standard blocks cracked after 2000kms of testing on 05u blocks. 0/10 24u n1 blocks cracked after this endurance testing.

I dont care what you say, but have a look at this. It should convince you otherwise.

A comparison with a gt and a 05u block. I know I certainly would not go for an 05u if i was running 86.5 or 87mm bore, or even running big power through it.

And 'Doughboy's' block is gone, and will be in my capable hands on thursday :P

but that pic says that n1 block is 96 mm (which with a 87mm bore leave a cylinger wall thickness of 4.5mm) and GT is 98mm (which with same bore leaves 5.5mm). what is the thickness of the standard 32? and if the GT one is superior why are you getting the N1 block? i thought you were going crate engine?

Hahaha...the dynamic duo are at it again.

Never doubted the N1 product or even the GT500 block....point was....is it needed for his application....and from his response....i think not.

acxacx i hope this information provided has been useful in your decision...the 05U product is not as bad as some people may lead you to believe....yes the N1 item is better....but in most applications its overkill.

Ok well lets see

Ive been trying to source an n1 block for the last month. In Australia, nissan parramatta has 1 block. they want 3700 for it. TRADE PRICE

Justjap dont have stock. Give them a call. Hi octane have no stock. Sorry I believe they have a gt block for 6k. no thanks

I called my contacts in japan. Nissan japan has NO STOCK. Go on. Give them a call. You will find there are none. Nissan has no plans to recommit to further production. There are some specialised workshops in japan that have a small amount of inventory left, but they sell these as parts of complete motors. You may be able to find a 2nd hand on yahoo japan, or at a 2nd hand parts shop. My japanese parts broker has quoted me 200,000 yen plus shipping for a brand new n1 and this is after extensive searching and there is apparently a 4 month wait invovled ? So they definitely are around, if you have the money and time and patience.

At the end of the day, Paul believes you dont need one, so dont get one. When you start losing coolant and start to wonder why, come back to this thread. Im not saying it will happen or it wont happen, but im not a mechanic. When I do my build, I dont want to pull out my motor again for another 100,000 kms. Paul on the other hand can pull out his engine, refit a new block with pistons rods and crank. New bearings, new rings, new headgasket and new bolts. Oh and the pleasure of running it in again. I dont have the mechanical ability to do that. NOR do i want to be spending any more money after. Do it once, do it right.

Believe what you want to believe. Pauls running 460awkw through his block and its fine. You should listen to him

Believe what you want to believe. Pauls running 460awkw through his block and its fine. You should listen to him

Just trying to help the guy make an informed decision....not trying to sway him either way.

Chicken little said the sky would fall too.....

The way you guys are going on you'd swear everybody without an N1 or GT500 block has a timebomb under their hood.

BTW..... the best AWKW figure we have seen is only 443.

Good luck with your build

Edited by DiRTgarage

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hopefully it ends up being something manageable, like a hone, rather than a full bore—it would be a huge relief if it’s not as bad as it looks. Hang in there; these setbacks are annoying, but it sounds like you’re handling it as smartly as possible.
    • At the end of the day, it’s all about understanding the odds and being comfortable with the potential cost, whether it’s horsepower on a build or chips on a roulette table. And I have to say, the Laine example made me laugh—some people really do embrace that carefree, “roll and see” attitude!
    • Thanks MBS206, i got that PDF but got abit overhelm with all the connections and tracing of wires. I wasn't expecting to plug the dash harness anywhere. i was just going to use my electronics jumper wires to plug into the right pins like ECU power, ecu ground, ignition trigger etc... I do have a few ratchet straps locking it down tight. Fire extinguisher ready and only a small amount of fuel at a time, enough to submerge the pump.
    • Thanks GTSBoy, i will do abit more digging. I am missing a blue relay near the ECU connector... so i will chase that up in the next few days as well  
    • https://yariksteel.ru/manual/R33/Skyline_R33_elektroprovodka.pdf   Page 18 should be what you want for the Dash Cluster wiring. Though, you don't need the dash plugged in to get the motor running. What you want is power as how GTSBoy said. You need to power the ECU. Find in the above link the ECU pin outs (Verify them before just connecting them up from things written on the internet). Find anything needing power, give it power, find anything needing ground, give it ground. Then give the starter motor power through a big cable, and bridge the solenoid on the starter straight to power too.  ECU will be on, and when you give the starter power, it'll spin the starter motor, and it should start. I also hope you have a proper stand, and not just the engine sitting on some wood. You will want it bolted down properly.
×
×
  • Create New...