Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Got a couple of questions regarding A31 Nissan Cefiros, wondering if perhaps some people could help me out, since there are quite a few Importer guys on here and all.

1) What's the average going rate on a '88 or '89 5sp Manual RB20DET A31?

2) If i were to import one next year under the 15yr rule, what kinda prices should i be expecting (landed, engineered etc)

Help/Comments appreciated.

Cheers,

Ryan

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/11390-cefiros/
Share on other sites

my cefiro lands this week you will need to budget at least 10 k for one maybe more. they can have mods as they come in under the 15 year rule which is different to the raws scheme. the prices on them are rising all the time as people work out they can bring them in. manuals are dearer as they have jsut about all been converted. once my car arricves I 'll do a detailed page on my site in regards to it so you can all look

cheers

meggala

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/11390-cefiros/#findComment-193236
Share on other sites

ryan: under the 15 year old rule the cefiros should cost approx 7-10 grand all up with rego, cause remember that they dont have to be complianced.

nismo boy: as they will be imported under the 15 year old rule they can have a t88 in them if you wanted, but the car has to be engineered when it comes to OZ instead of complianced.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/11390-cefiros/#findComment-193251
Share on other sites

Thanks guys. Sounds like i was thinking correctly, i figured that it'd be at least 10k.

With the Manual conversion, which gearbox is usually the one used? R32 RB20DET? or a S13 box?

What i'm thinking is, if finance allows, i'll get a loan for around 20k and get hold of a cefiro and do a few mods and just leave it like that until i've paid everything off. Either that, or i'll just get one in whatever condition from japan and leave it unmodified for a while. There's so many options and i keep changing my mind, but the Cefiro keeps on looking like a better option all the time. I'd prefer a 4dr due to practicality, I like the look of the A31, It's RB20DET, etc etc.

If i were to bring over a RB20DET Automatic, how expensive would a Manual conversion be do you think? I realise you'd have to change the computer as well as the gearbox itself, but is there anything else involved? Of course i'd prefer to find one with this already done, but yeah

Just exploring more options. I change my mind alot, but this Cefiro option is looking good.

I got a few other questions too, which i'm hoping someone can answer ----

1) Headlights -- Which models came with the projector headlights and which didn't?? I see so many variants.

2) Tailights -- Which model came with these tail lights??:

IMG_0003.jpg

I'd prefer the above tail lights, even if i have to put them on myself. Theyre so much nicer. Same with the projector headlights.

Also - How expensive and hard to get are the Autech kits? Are there copies of these available?

How rare are the 4WD versions?

So many questions i know..... hhehe

once agian, help appreciated

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/11390-cefiros/#findComment-193291
Share on other sites

and there are compliance cost for a car under the 15 years rule

it is around 1500. but the car has no plate this is signed off by an engineer and you need belts intrusioin bars etc they look cheap till you att it all up llets say you find a nice

cefiro with manual swap a few mods

I dont recomend buying one auto

car 300,000 yen $4200 aussie

buyers fee fob charges 80,000 $1100

brokers fee here $1000

shipping $1200

customs duty $700

gst $800

miscellaneous wharf fees $500

compliance to aust standard

w/engineers $1500

plus reg rwc $500

plus on little stuff to fix $500

total $12000

am I wrong or not

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/11390-cefiros/#findComment-193318
Share on other sites

meggala: sounds correct to me, best to estimate more than less really. sucks to get hit with extra costs. I knew it needs engineering, i was just unsure as to the modifications thing =)

how hard are manual ones to get hold of?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/11390-cefiros/#findComment-193326
Share on other sites

meggala this is also why i am waiting (apart from the fact i;ve gotta save some $, and wait til i can get a loan)

can choose from 1988 and 1989 models =)

prob wont be til around mid next year until i buy anything, for now its just investigating

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/11390-cefiros/#findComment-193368
Share on other sites

  • 6 months later...

Not included in most 15 year plus cars is the cost of Govt. stamp duty and registration (normal licensing costs for any vehicle). An allowance of up to $1,200 should also be made on top of this price for the minor items required to be addressed under the 15 year rule prior to registration. These can be done by anyone, and may include retractable seatbelts for rear seats, sun visors, child restraint points on the rear parcel shelf for cars with rear seats, high level brake light, driver's side mirror to be changed from convex to flat, unleaded fuel filler opening restrictor, side intrusion bars, engineer's certificate, and a new set of tyres if the Japanese tyres are worn out.

This was what my friend said... BUT i have heard that you MUST change the tyres on all 15+ year old cars whether they are worn or not...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/11390-cefiros/#findComment-537774
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Power is fed to the ECU when the ignition switch is switched to IGN, at terminal 58. That same wire also connects to the ECCS relay to provide both the coil power and the contact side. When the ECU sees power at 58 it switches 16 to earth, which pulls the ECCS relay on, which feeds main power into the ECU and also to a bunch of other things. None of this is directly involved in the fuel pump - it just has to happen first. The ECU will pull terminal 18 to earth when it wants the fuel pump to run. This allows the fuel pump relay to pull in, which switches power on into the rest of the fuel pump control equipment. The fuel pump control regulator is controlled from terminal 104 on the ECU and is switched high or low depending on whether the ECU thinks the pump needs to run high or low. (I don't know which way around that is, and it really doesn't matter right now). The fuel pump control reg is really just a resistor that controls how the power through the pump goes to earth. Either straight to earth, or via the resistor. This part doesn't matter much to us today. The power to the fuel pump relay comes from one of the switched wires from the IGN switch and fusebox that is not shown off to the left of this page. That power runs the fuel pump relay coil and a number of other engine peripherals. Those peripherals don't really matter. All that matters is that there should be power available at the relay when the key is in the right position. At least - I think it's switched. If it's not switched, then power will be there all the time. Either way, if you don't have power there when you need it (ie, key on) then it won't work. The input-output switching side of the relay gains its power from a line similar (but not the same as) the one that feeds the ECU. SO I presume that is switched. Again, if there is not power there when you need it, then you have to look upstream. And... the upshot of all that? There is no "ground" at the fuel pump relay. Where you say: and say that pin 1 Black/Pink is ground, that is not true. The ECU trigger is AF73, is black/pink, and is the "ground". When the ECU says it is. The Blue/White wire is the "constant" 12V to power the relay's coil. And when I say "constant", I mean it may well only be on when the key is on. As I said above. So, when the ECU says not to be running the pump (which is any time after about 3s of switching on, with no crank signal or engine speed yet), then you should see 12V at both 1 and 2. Because the 12V will be all the way up to the ECU terminal 18, waiting to be switched to ground. When the ECU switches the fuel pump on, then AF73 should go to ~0V, having been switched to ground and the voltage drop now occurring over the relay coil. 3 & 5 are easy. 5 is the other "constant" 12V, that may or may not be constant but will very much want to be there when the key is on. Same as above. 3 goes to the pump. There should never be 12V visible at 3 unless the relay is pulled in. As to where the immobiliser might have been spliced into all this.... It will either have to be on wire AF70 or AF71, whichever is most accessible near the alarm. Given that all those wires run from the engine bay fusebox or the ECU, via the driver's area to the rear of the car, it could really be either. AF70 will be the same colour from the appropriate fuse all the way to the pump. If it has been cut and is dangling, you should be able to see that  in that area somewhere. Same with AF71.   You really should be able to force the pump to run. Just jump 12V onto AF72 and it should go. That will prove that the pump itself is willing to go along with you when you sort out the upstream. You really should be able to force the fuel pump relay on. Just short AF73 to earth when the key is on. If the pump runs, then the relay is fine, and all the power up to both inputs on the relay is fine. If it doesn't run (and given that you checked the relay itself actually works) then one or both of AF70 and AF71 are not bringing power to the game.
    • @PranK can you elaborate further on the Colorlock Dye? The website has a lot of options. I'm sure you've done all the research. I have old genuine leather seats that I have bought various refurbing creams and such, but never a dye. Any info on how long it lasts? Does it wash out? Is it a hassle? What product do I actually need? Am I just buying this kit and following the steps the page advises or something else? https://www.colourlockaustralia.com.au/colourlock-leather-repair-kit-dye.html
    • These going to fit over the big brakes? I'd be reeeeeeeeaaaall hesitant to believe so.
    • The leather work properly stunned me. Again, I am thankful that the leather was in such good condition. I'm not sure what the indent is at the top of the passenger seat. Like somebody was sitting in it with a golf ball between their shoulders. The wheels are more grey than silver now and missing a lot of gloss.  Here's one with nice silver wheels.
    • It's amazing how well the works on the leather seats. Looks mint. Looking forward to see how you go with the wheels. They do suit the car! Gutter rash is easy to fix, but I'm curious about getting the colour done.
×
×
  • Create New...