Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey t04 gtr its in the cargo area at the back, on the passenger side behind the little compartment thing u can open up, its actually a fraction forward of that compartment. take the top window surround off, the compartment thing out, and they are all on clips mainly so beee careful they are brittle as hell. its screwed onto the metal frame and u will see the 100000 wires going to it when u remove the bottom floor panels.

and yes they have a fault code light on the ecu itself. its a bugger to get the ecu out to look though so have fun :laugh:

ok heres a pic, the red arrow is where the ecu is mounted behind that panel, and he blue arrow is the ecu itself sitting out in the open.

second pic is the attessa ecu itself.

110_1006.jpg

110_1004.jpg

hope it helps

Brad

Edited by CruiseLiner
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/114084-stagea/#findComment-2104244
Share on other sites

Awesome info Brad!

Now to find out how to properly and effectively hardwire the ATTESSA - I can't remember if the info is yet to be posted, or if I've read it and just not understood or am able to recall how it's done... At least once that's sorted then we'll all be one step closer to the Power FC/RB25/Stagea solution that Mercury find it so secretive to give us...

(Does that make sense? I'm feeling really vague today.)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/114084-stagea/#findComment-2105539
Share on other sites

by hardwiring the ATESSA it means, the ecu does not have proper outputs for what the ATTESSA needs, therefore it is just spliced off another connection.

It was in another thread about funky asking about the gear ratios in stageas and him talking about stuff. Look through funky's "users threads" thing in his profile.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/114084-stagea/#findComment-2105878
Share on other sites

ya all lucky i dont actually use my car to drive, but to learn and study the stagea designs in and out over and over and over, damn it gets annoying. i use my negatives to help others if i can ;):O

ive had every single thing disassembled from my stagea now and i mean everything!!!

engine, gearbox, suspension, diff, axles, sump, interior, attessa stuff, dash, seats, fuel system, fuel tank, etc etc.

one day ill actually drive it :(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/114084-stagea/#findComment-2114498
Share on other sites

Why would you want to hardwire the ATTESA ECU? might as well just buy a mitsu legnum then

Hardwiring the ATTESSA allows us to plug in an R33 PowerFC, seeing as there is no Stagea-specific PFC available. That way, we don't lose use of the ATTESSA, and we gain a computer option which is plug-and-play...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/114084-stagea/#findComment-2115195
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Not sure the US can import anything other than the C34 Stagea's, but if you can and you need to to tow, DO NOT under any circumstances get an M35 Stagea. If it is just as a family car and your country/state allows it, absolutely and definitely get an M35 (3.5L if possible as it is effectively a 350Z) over a C34.
    • Punch your VIN (nm35-xxxxxx) into Amayama.com You can see everything there quite easily.
    • Thanks for that, I'll check it all out. I can always do the brakes last anyway if its a problem.  The 16's are super cool, if they do fit I'll cruise around with them for a bit.  
    • Well, that's kinda the point. The calipers might interfere with the inside of the barrels 16" rims are only about 14" inside the barrels, which is ~350mm, and 334mm rotors only leave about 8mm outboard for the caliper before you get to 350, And.... that;s not gunna be enough. If the rims have a larger ID than that, you might sneak it in. I'd be putting a measuring stick inside the wheel and eyeballing the extra required for the caliper outboard of the rotor before committing to bolting it all on.
    • OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
×
×
  • Create New...