Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 56
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

oil world sold me redline gearbox for $100, but that was almost a year ago.

It's funny, you put it in, and don't really notice much difference, it takes about a week to really start working, it must take a while to get into all the gears and what not. or maybe i'm just imagining it!

redline gearbox oil is pretty high on my list of "good mods"

I have had a leaking gearbox reverse switch (i think) for a while now, i really should fix that, it's like liquid gold! $5 a drop

I have used the "blue Smurf" in 2 RB20/30 gearboxes now, boht after developing synchro issues.

The first one spat the mail bearings after 15K Km of use with the red line stuff, but i blame that almost enitrley on a failed spiggot bush.

The second gearbox has only just had it put in, and had immediate improvement.

My 3rd gearbox, which is in another car has Castrol MTX gear oil in it. It is 1/4 of the price and has worked just as well as the blue smurf. It is listed as a motorbike oil, and is quite thin however i was told it was still suitable for this application. My only concern is that the bearings may not love it, but it hasnt been in there long enough to tell. Just another option if your looking for a quick cheap fix.

Brent.

  • 1 month later...
So is there any conclusive evidence against Redline oils on new gearboxs/syncros?

This topic really left me undecided because I'm putting in a new box but still with an unknown condition. :

you mean a second hand box, thats new to your car?

i'd say it'd be fine...unless its just been rebuilt....

So is there any conclusive evidence against Redline oils on new gearboxs/syncros?

This topic really left me undecided because I'm putting in a new box but still with an unknown condition. :

The one or two reports that said DON'T USE IT WITH A MINT GEARBOX are enough to put me off. I'll use Motul Gear 300 in my gearbox and diff instead, I reckon. I'll start using Shockproof when my synchros wear out :(

i am currantly running superlight shockproof and find it quite good once its warmed up say a few minutes,very silky shifts,, so yeah i feelit is good:-)

You can actually rate Redline lightweight shockproof as 75w140 but it is build very differently. One of the must have if you are generating big power.

Clink link below for more technical details:

RL lightweight shockproof

Edited by Trex101
The one or two reports that said DON'T USE IT WITH A MINT GEARBOX are enough to put me off. I'll use Motul Gear 300 in my gearbox and diff instead, I reckon. I'll start using Shockproof when my synchros wear out :mad:

Don't use it with a mint gearbox??? Where did u get that from? So if your gear box is fine, you shouldn't use redline oil at all?

I was under the impression that the consensus seemed to be don't go Redline if your box is new/rebuilt but go for it if the Synchro's are a bit older or a little tired =) I'm still yet to have any problems with it and the box is still noticeably smoother than it was and also eliminated grabbing under WOT through 2nd -> 3rd and 3rd -> 4th. I still need a new clutch and I'm hoping that will be the end of any grabbing through changes all together (as it will still do it occassionally through 4th -> 5th at high RPM.

Cheers

Don't use it with a mint gearbox??? Where did u get that from? So if your gear box is fine, you shouldn't use redline oil at all?

Dont use the shockproof. Its got additives in it to make it a thinner more slipperly oil. Normal non shockproof oil should be ok. Id probably go the castrol or motul stuff tho if your gearbox is in good nick.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hello , im new here and i have A31 home build  RB25det neo stock eng / turbo  aem ems 2 blue connector  aem 3.5 map aem cas disk aem wideband connected to ecu  355 lph pump 550 nismo yellow injectors side feed aftermarket regulator  and won’t start with base aem tuner basic tune eventually flipped cas 180 degree so it triggers on correct stroke not in exhaust cycle  Now it won’t start Wideband reads 10 and 11 at lowest fuel setting  and will share calibrations soon for aem tuner i think something is wrong in aem tuner    please if you have any information, am very grateful         
    • Legend. I ended up finding the facebook account of the owner of the first car i sent but sadly he deactivated the account. I think you’re right in saying it’s some sort of well done custom job. Really appreciate your help anyways.
    • Totally equivalent. Stock often goes from the comp cover because that's where the actuator is also installed and the factory needs 2" of hose to make the connection - and it comes as a pre-assembled unit. They totally have a boost reference from somewhere between the turbo and the throttle(s). Oh, jeez. Just do it in M12 then. We don't actually care that much. I would expect any such AN converter fitting to rely on an o-ring or some other seal onto a flat surface under the flange of the hex**, because bolt threads are no intended to provide a pressure seal. unlike..... pipe threads. **which also requires a suitably flat and smooth surface on the turbo's boss to provide the seal.
    • I also used NP   That’s were it’s seems to be the best place to fit it? All schematic shows also that it’s should be referenced from the turbo housing. But idk, I do see high hp cars without any connection or anything to their turbos, so I really don’t know how they connect their things
    • I do have loctite 243 and 246 and a few more models. I could drill it now in place and make new threads for m12 and order an4 - m12 coupling and fit that to the turbo. Run a braided hose to the EBC which I could get a an4 to 1/8npt 
×
×
  • Create New...