Jump to content
SAU Community

damn cops pulled me oiver for my lights :(

DJ_L3ThAL

By DJ_L3ThAL,
in Victoria

 Share

Recommended Posts

Guest INASNT

Guest INASNT

Posted
Posted
Originally posted by gtst88

my friend fixed his S-AFC right at the top right corner of his windscreen and the cop that was checking his car for roadworthiness didnt see it .. well my friend got a canary because his exhaust piping was too low & an open pod filter .. fark cops ..

haha

didnt the cop see the wire coming down the side of the windscreen?

I have to hide my s-afc in my glovebox for my epa test

Guest INASNT

Guest INASNT

Posted
Posted
Originally posted by predator666

hey inasnt.. just open up the S-SAFC, disconnect the little plug to the board and it won't be able to rev past 2500rpm anyway :D I wonder whether they'd be too dumb to notice?

hahah that might b a plan, i can tell them my car is really a diesel and has the rev limiter set to 2500rpm.

Damn if i had a pfc i could have lowered the rev limiter to 3000rpm then they couldnt rev it past there if they tried.

Thats the only thing that suxs about the s-afc is that if u unplug it from the loom the stock ecu wont run properly!

Baron Bohr Enthusiast

Baron Bohr

Posted
Posted
Originally posted by DJ_L3ThAL

what about all the BMWs and lexuses who have bright yellow driving lights ? can i change my parkers to yellow ?

Xenons are the best - blue but legal! :P

A friend of mine has red angel eyes at the front of his car, but it's a BMW, so the cops don't bother him. :) 3 times cops have looked and not once have they booked him... ;)

Osram have good white bulbs too.

Baron Bohr Enthusiast

Baron Bohr

Posted
Posted

Xenons = HID = High Intensity Discharge = BRIGHT! = Expensive (A retro-kit for most cars will cost at least $1000 to buy (if it's a good quality kit))

:P

LED = Light Emittign Diode = Small, not very bright.

You can buy ordinary filament globes called 'xenon' but they are not. They have nothing to do with real xenons... A real Xenon bulb has no filament and will cost >$100. (Mine are $210 each!)

riggaP Veteran

riggaP

Posted
Posted
Originally posted by pushead

i doubt they will put this on record.. if they give you a warning don't worry about it.. they have 2 choices, either fine you or not.

If you send anything into Vicroads they'll keep it forever... yes FOREVER. Everytime you get pulled over the copper can bring up your vehicle record and check "comments" on the system detailling everything that has been wrong with your car in the past. As for hard copy documents, there a storage building in reservoir that has almost every single document anyone has given to Vicroads since it was set up millions of years ago... Basically they know how to cover their arses and drill people when they continue to disobey the "law".

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...