Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 40
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Also looks like you have cut some of it out to make some kind of hole. I guess i cant really compare cause you drive a supra. I love the apexi pod i want to keep the snorkel but i need a heatshield but still want to induction sound. Anyone know what will fit my application???

well it seems to be doing the job latinr33, i used the proper K&N cleaning agent

some 1 had cut the hole to suit the intake on the Supra before i got it, doesnt do any good to me now cause the FMIC catches all the air

Im not sure if they sell the heatsheild and filter together but i bought this specifically for my car as it has the mountings for the air flow sensor

Well I have done some research and it appears the best material for heatshield is fibreglass,carbon fibre and high temp plastic. Any type of metal will attract heat and does not offer an effective type of heatshielding. It seems there are no heatshield products available that will allow me to use my apexi pod with my standard snorkel. I see some that are made out of aluminium but thats it. I was thinking the UAS box but then the snorkel is useless and the air I believe will be coming from the passenger headlight. anyone know of products which are good. any shops in sydney you know which do custom jobs.

^^^ mr_crust sells the heatsheild with a hole for the snorkles. However i think he makes them in aluminium, but if you ask him kindly enough im sure he can make you one out of fibreglass.

I have a aluminium one, and to be honest, theres not much difference. If you really are paranoid, buy some insulation and over it yourself. This will cost about 10bucks at bunnings or something??

Or, buy one from UAS.. Feed air thru the stock fmic pipiin under the pod, and feed air thru the front bar, by using some sort of duct type piping or pvc etc etc.

^^^ mr_crust sells the heatsheild with a hole for the snorkles. However i think he makes them in aluminium, but if you ask him kindly enough im sure he can make you one out of fibreglass.

I have a aluminium one, and to be honest, theres not much difference. If you really are paranoid, buy some insulation and over it yourself. This will cost about 10bucks at bunnings or something??

Or, buy one from UAS.. Feed air thru the stock fmic pipiin under the pod, and feed air thru the front bar, by using some sort of duct type piping or pvc etc etc.

I second the Mr-crust shield. It looks hot. Uses the existing snorkel and is cheap.

Click me for sexy heat shield

I currently have a Carbon Fibre Heat Shield in production for my R34... once it's done I'll post some photos up and look at mass producing them :P

If I get a R33 and a R32 to draw up a template (takes 20minutes) I will also be looking at getting them done in CF ;)

The Mr crust one is actually pretty nice looking. would be good and just get it ceramic coated. The only thing is that its all pop riveted what happens if you have to take it off or remove pod for cleaning or something would make things abit difficult.

The Mr crust one is actually pretty nice looking. would be good and just get it ceramic coated. The only thing is that its all pop riveted what happens if you have to take it off or remove pod for cleaning or something would make things abit difficult.

Only the walls are riveted to each other. The mounts to to the engine bay and teh perspex lid are screws. To clean the pod all you have to do is remove two phillips head screws that hold the lid in place.

well would help if mr crust had stock but he has sold out.

Im going to use Maxx's box for the R33 & R34 on my series1 Stagea. They look very nice indeed.

Paint it black and it'll look stock. Almost.

Thing is its heavy duty aluminium, if you're worried about heatsoak then whack foam (or some form of heat insulation) all around it.

Hi guys, i just found this thread, i dont have any current stock, but if you really want one, i can get one made up as a one off, at $120bux delievered anywhere in australia, overnight.

If you worried about heat, this box eliminates the heat much better then many others on the market. Most only have 2 walls to eliminate heat, this one has 3, also if you head to clark rubber u can get some rubber foam stuff and cover each of the inside walls in foam and that would work even better.

Also as for the price compared to all the ones i've seen no one has sold them cheaper and have had the same quality/detail

If your intrested PM me.

Edited by mr_crust

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I mean, I got two VASS engineers to refuse to cert my own coilovers stating those very laws. Appendix B makes it pretty clear what it considers 'Variable Suspension' to be. In my lived experience they can't certify something that isn't actually in the list as something that requires certification. In the VASS engineering checklist they have to complete (LS3/NCOP11) and sign on there is nothing there. All the references inside NCOP11 state that if it's variable by the driver that height needs to maintain 100mm while the car is in motion. It states the car is lowered lowering blocks and other types of things are acceptable. Dialling out a shock is about as 'user adjustable' as changing any other suspension component lol. I wanted to have it signed off to dissuade HWP and RWC testers to state the suspension is legal to avoid having this discussion with them. The real problem is that Police and RWC/Pink/Blue slip people will say it needs engineering, and the engineers will state it doesn't need engineering. It is hugely irritating when aforementioned people get all "i know the rules mate feck off" when they don't, and the actual engineers are pleasant as all hell and do know the rules. Cars failing RWC for things that aren't listed in the RWC requirements is another thing here entirely!
    • I don't. I mean, mine's not a GTR, but it is a 32 with a lot of GTR stuff on it. But regardless, I typically buy from local suppliers. Getting stuff from Japan is seldom worth the pain. Buying from RHDJapan usually ends up in the final total of your basket being about double what you thought it would be, after all the bullshit fees and such are added on.
    • The hydrocarbon component of E10 can be shittier, and is in fact, shittier, than that used in normal 91RON fuel. That's because the octane boost provided by the ethanol allows them to use stuff that doesn't make the grade without the help. The 1c/L saving typically available on E10 is going to be massively overridden by the increased consumption caused by the ethanol and the crappier HC (ie the HCs will be less dense, meaning that there will definitely be less energy per unit volume than for more dense HCs). That is one of the reasons why P98 will return better fuel consumption than 91 does, even with the ignition timing completely fixed. There is more energy per unit volume because the HCs used in 98 are higher density than in the lawnmower fuel.
    • No, I'd suggest that that is the checklist for pneumatic/hydraulic adjustable systems. I would say, based on my years of reading and complying with Australian Standards and similar regulations, that the narrow interpretation of Clause 3.2 b would be the preferred/expected/intended one, by the author, and those using the standard. Wishful thinking need not apply.
    • Yes they do. For some maybe. But for those used the most by abusers, ie Skylines, the numbers are known. The stock eyebrow height for R32/3 Skylines is about 365/375mm or thereabouts. The minimum such heights are recorded in adjacent columns in the database.
×
×
  • Create New...