Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've taken insperation from Roys' post in my other thread!

If you were to have a sedate run of the mill car for normal use (eg. starlet) so that you could build up a weekend warrior to very regularly participate in motorkharna, skid pan days, trackdays, to dutton rally, targa even what car would you realistically choose?

Now, I have to set a few loose guidelines=

1. It would have to be on a tight budget - More emphasis on D.I.Y (By tight, I mean cost effective. Fun/$)

2. parts readily availible - And hopefully cheap

3. Be a good all round performer Etc. etc.

Roy may want to elaberate but he said he would have got a mark 1 escort!

And i toyed with the idea a while ago with the OLD old CRX with the 1.6 VTEC in it. Stripped, roll cage, seats, suspension, brakes etc.

For example= A friend of mine Built the puma clubman with the SR20DET from SYD. for about $22G all up. (same as in hot 4's ages ago) Quicker than a Farrari!

What would you get?

Edited by ellie
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/115958-weekend-warrior/
Share on other sites

Ok its not an Escort, which would be my choice…but here is an example of what $2500 buys you. A log booked and caged Mk1 Cortina. Close Ratio Lotus 5 spd. Twin 40mm Webers on a 1500cc engine. All rally prepped and only entered and completed 4 events. Now you would normally expect about to pay $4500 but was getting too much bird poop on it from the couple of months it sat in the yard under a tree. And the owner is off OS at the moment doing some Cross South America Rally so wanted it to go to a good home rather then sit there.

It is ready to enter any Historic gravel rally, any tarmac rally like Classic Adelaide and would be a hoot and cheap to fix. The body has two small touches of rust but nothing major, we are telign 50cent pieces. I wanted to buy this car, but I need to get my car back on the road before I go buying another car…fingers crossed a cheap Mk 1 Escort will come up towards the end of the year.

It won’t be a missile at a circuit, but it would be a good car for motorkhanas, tarmac rallies, and on the gravel. Where you have long straights like many tracks you will struggle to be quick but would be a great learning car. At the end of the day, the car weighs under 900kg, so 80-100hp will still move the thing along ok.

The only thing you need to consider with doing such a variety of events, especially the rally stuff is you will need a good circle of friends to crew for you…as they are not the sort of thing you can do by yourself…and its better to have a friend be your navigator, much more fun when you can hurl abuse and appoint blame to one another

post-462-1146615229.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/115958-weekend-warrior/#findComment-2135059
Share on other sites

Shit yeah. Is that thing still for sale Roy? Is it in Mel or Syd? Race/Rally rego? What is the deal with log books do you need to keep updating them to keep race/rally rego? Do you need a CAMS license to own it/register it?

I would have said a cheap built s13 for sure. Parts easy, easy to get power, easy not to kill in stock form. Just throw in some suspension bolt ons of choice, a diff, a seat, harness and away you go... I'd love to do that for a drift/road rally car but I don't have the money to get a car like that let alone swap suspension and change settings between drifting and stuff I'd like to do later in life like dutton/targa etc etc

On the bright side by the time I can afford it I'll be able to enter a silvia or cefiro into historic :O

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/115958-weekend-warrior/#findComment-2135156
Share on other sites

Exactly what I'm talking about! Piles off fun with out worrying about righting off your big dollar road car!

I think 13B turbos and engine conversions are going to get costly and remember that it will be scrutineered

Edited by ellie
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/115958-weekend-warrior/#findComment-2136625
Share on other sites

...and remember that it will be scrutineered

And such mods will exclude you from some of the more organised/larger events. Fine for motorkhanas etc, but try and enter that into a rally, be it dirt or tarmac and it would be excluded because of the mods. Hell you could even go Appendix J racing in an old log booked HRA car :cheers:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/115958-weekend-warrior/#findComment-2136674
Share on other sites

It has Club Historica Rego so can be driven to and from events, to the mechanics, to practice days etc. Just need to apply to CAMS and get a permit to drive it in case you arr pulled over.

Thanks for that Roy.

We've both had enough dramas with our cars... Wanna go halves? :D:D

(p.s. what do you mean arr pulled over.. is that like when a pirate pulls you over? :mrt: ... heh sorry :mrt: )

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/115958-weekend-warrior/#findComment-2142063
Share on other sites

Matt... get your work to swing us a brand new M6 and we'll compete in the Targa Tas next year :mrt:

on a more serious note, i hear that S13's are eligible for IPRA now... would make a nice learning/base car... parts are cheap and plentiful, the car itself could be had cheap enough... can be made to go/stop/turn fairly well on a budget...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/115958-weekend-warrior/#findComment-2142159
Share on other sites

Ok its not an Escort, which would be my choice…but here is an example of what $2500 buys you. A log booked and caged Mk1 Cortina. Close Ratio Lotus 5 spd. Twin 40mm Webers on a 1500cc engine. All rally prepped and only entered and completed 4 events. Now you would normally expect about to pay $4500 but was getting too much bird poop on it from the couple of months it sat in the yard under a tree. And the owner is off OS at the moment doing some Cross South America Rally so wanted it to go to a good home rather then sit there.

It is ready to enter any Historic gravel rally, any tarmac rally like Classic Adelaide and would be a hoot and cheap to fix. The body has two small touches of rust but nothing major, we are telign 50cent pieces. I wanted to buy this car, but I need to get my car back on the road before I go buying another car…fingers crossed a cheap Mk 1 Escort will come up towards the end of the year.

It won’t be a missile at a circuit, but it would be a good car for motorkhanas, tarmac rallies, and on the gravel. Where you have long straights like many tracks you will struggle to be quick but would be a great learning car. At the end of the day, the car weighs under 900kg, so 80-100hp will still move the thing along ok.

The only thing you need to consider with doing such a variety of events, especially the rally stuff is you will need a good circle of friends to crew for you…as they are not the sort of thing you can do by yourself…and its better to have a friend be your navigator, much more fun when you can hurl abuse and appoint blame to one another

these are awesome cars, my brother owned one for a while....with the (ithink) from memory the 1600 motor with the single top webber.....it sounded so sweet..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/115958-weekend-warrior/#findComment-2144339
Share on other sites

As people have said, the entry rules will restrict what kind of mods you can do to the car so it'd be very difficult to have something affordable that can compete in such a wide range of motorsport and be competitive in all.

Me, on a low, low budget I'd go an S13 Silvia with SR20DET. Parts are everywhere, they're a bit lighter and more nimble than the Skyline (which is great for the tighter courses like road rallies and motorkhanas) and they're RWD.

On a slightly higher budget, an early model WRX or old Evo / GSR. Something 4WD turbo, so maybe even a Laser TX3 Turbo. On the low grip stuff (motorkhana, skidpan) your 2WD cars will need a far superior driver, and for the faster stuff like road rallies I'd feel safer in a 4WD car.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/115958-weekend-warrior/#findComment-2149947
Share on other sites

Thems fighten words Roy :laughing-smiley-014:

Funnily enough, one of the guys at work has just completed the initial part of his restoration of a mk1 escort with the 2L cosworth motor in it and it absolutely flies! spins the tyres no worries and is a bunch of fun but then you try and turn it and i remember why i love new technology so much! LOL!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/115958-weekend-warrior/#findComment-2149445
Share on other sites

Ok, i want to buy this car...but all my money is earmarked for new paint, engine and Dutton entry so ...please someone lookign for a fun full time weekend car buy this ...

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Ford-Escort-Rally-C...1QQcmdZViewItem

Damnit Roy that ebay link that car looks nice. No idea how I'd drive it on the road without a trailer though - is that the sort of thing you could get UVP then race/rally rego for?

Just out of interest if I was to import a silvia with a cams 3 license for race/rally import.. Could I then register it with race/rally rego or does race/rally import mean it will NEVER EVER get any sort of rego?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/115958-weekend-warrior/#findComment-2153431
Share on other sites

Damnit Roy that ebay link that car looks nice. No idea how I'd drive it on the road without a trailer though - is that the sort of thing you could get UVP then race/rally rego for?

Just out of interest if I was to import a silvia with a cams 3 license for race/rally import.. Could I then register it with race/rally rego or does race/rally import mean it will NEVER EVER get any sort of rego?

Yeh, you can get the car log booked and that means when you want to drive it to an event you can apply to CAMS for a permit and you are then ok to drive it on the road. You can get permits to take the car to a mechanics, test dat etc etc. Cant go to KFC or the pub though :rofl:

Here are some pics from the other weekend, event was called the Murrindindi Magic...ive volunteered and helped with route charts the past couple of years, this year i didnt help as ive been working on my car (some would call it work). They are great fun even as a person volunteering or crewing for a car

post-462-1147245597.jpg

post-462-1147246235.jpg

post-462-1147246460.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/115958-weekend-warrior/#findComment-2155300
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm looking for some real world experiences/feed back from anyone who has personally ran a EFR7670 with a 1.05 exhaust housing or a .83 I'm leaning towards the .83 because its a street car used mostly for spirited driving in the canyons roads. I"m not looking for big numbers on paper. I want a responsive powerband that will be very linear to 8000 rpm. I dont mind if power remains somewhat flat but dont want power to drop off on top. The turbo I've purchased is a 1.05, although the mounting flange T3 vs T4 and internal vs external waste gates are different on both housings, I not concern about swapping parts or making fabrication mods to get what I want. Based on some of the research I've done with chat gpt, the 1.05 housing seems to be the way to go with slightly more lag and future proofing for more mods but recommends .83 for best response/street car setup. AI doesn't have the same emotions as real people driving a GTR so I think you guys will be able to give me better feed back 😀   
    • Surely somebody has one in VIC. Have you asked at any shops?  Is this the yearly inspection or did you get a canary?
    • This is where I share pain with you, @Duncan. The move to change so many cooling system pieces to plastic is a killer! Plastic end tanks and a few plastic hose flanges on my car's fail after so little time.  Curious about the need for a bigger rad, is that just for long sessions in the summer or because the car generally needs more cooling?
    • So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
×
×
  • Create New...