Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All,

The coolant in my radiator is fairly rusty and I have run a coolant flush, then flushed the radiator. How can I flush the water that is still in the engine block? If possible, I don't want a fill up, run, cool, empty etc solution as I have done this about 8 times and it is still pretty bad...

Is there a way to push the water through the block without the engine on?

Thanks,

Dave.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/116154-rusty-coolant/
Share on other sites

Hi All,

The coolant in my radiator is fairly rusty and I have run a coolant flush, then flushed the radiator. How can I flush the water that is still in the engine block? If possible, I don't want a fill up, run, cool, empty etc solution as I have done this about 8 times and it is still pretty bad...

Is there a way to push the water through the block without the engine on?

Thanks,

Dave.

There is a block coolant drain plug. This guide I posted some time ago has details:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=67730

Out of interest, did you get your radiator professionally flushed, or did you do it yourself?

Edit I just noticed the images aren't working (again! I only fixed them last week! :cheers: ) after the gallery upgrade. Hmm.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/116154-rusty-coolant/#findComment-2136323
Share on other sites

Umm no offence but that has to be the most difficult way I have ever seen to flush a cooling system.....

Note, be doing this on a completely cold engine! :cheers:

And also make sure you have the heater set to on, so that your flushing through the heater core aswell ( one of the first things to rust through )

Personally I would undo both top and bottom radiator hoses from the radiator end, then flush the radiator until you get clear water coming out.

With the rad hoses still attached to the motor, alternate between flushing through the top hose, then through the bottom hose, same again until you get clear water.

Then remove a heater hose, easiest spot would be at the firewall, say top heater hose will do, shove hose in and flush through hose and through pipe into heater core, you should get more shit flowing out the top and bottom radiator hoses.

Bolt all the hoses back on once your satisfied its all clean water remaining, remove bleeder screw, fill radiator back up, preferably get something like a coke bottle, cut in half, wrap some tape around the mouth piece of it and use as a funnel in the radiator filler neck. You want it to sit higher than the motor or atleast higher than the bleed point.

Start motor, fill with water, let run for awhile. imo, i prefer to let them run until the thermostat opens ( can take a long time, 30 mins ), otherwise let it atleast warm up, and keep an eye on bleeder point. Once you have minimal amount of air bursting out bleeder, put screw back in bleeder. whack cap back on radiator. Job pretty much done.

* When using coke bottle or similiar as funnel, water will be forced into the overflow bottle. Best thing to do is remove hose from filler cap which runs to overflow bottle. Grab some spare hose that fits, chuck a bolt in one end, and push it onto the overflow nipple on the filler neck.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/116154-rusty-coolant/#findComment-2136474
Share on other sites

Umm no offence but that has to be the most difficult way I have ever seen to flush a cooling system.....

No offense taken. Its merely the way that Nissan designed the coolant to be dropped; its stupidly hard to get to (from underneath; very easy from up top but that requires the turbos out :cheers:).

Another possibility is to also purchase a radiator sock post flushing to collect loosened crap.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/116154-rusty-coolant/#findComment-2136535
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @GTSBoy yeah i know it was not the "great" idea but it is and option...but i think i will stay on no BoV rather then trying to make it work with "half" this and that. But that GReddy FV2 is cool...i like that you can make it like stock if you want (and have/make the custom pipes) For other thanks! it was alot of information. But for the sound...a dont rly "like" both of them...specialy if they are loud...but if i "must" choose i would rather have little whooosh rather than sutututu with no BoV....BUT that is what is i gonna get. So for the all info i gather. In my case:  No BoV is not that bad cuz it is stock...and iam used to put N/clutch right after rpms are around 1000 so it should be ok...just need to avoid "big" drops. But i do not have the engine in the car so i do not really know how "bad" or good it is. But as i had that little test drive it looked ok. The atmo BoV should be worse car would dump to much fuel specialy between the shifts...so without proper tune/ECU i dont want that. BUT with that...car should drive ok with no problems right? (i do like there is less piping wih this solution) 🙂 
    • Usually an RB20 won't stay in closed loop idle anyway. The O2 sensor gets too cold, stops swinging.
    • They aren't, but it depends on what interests you about an R32-R34. If it's the front engine I6 turbo that tunes well with a manual transmission an E92 335i 6MT is so incredibly cheap. You can get a super clean one for 20-25k USD tops. Put an LSD in it, tune it, have fun with it. If it's the general idea of AWD + turbo and a manual transmission the 996 Turbo is absolutely much more expensive, it's less practical but it's also basically a complete track-ready car from the factory. At least the Mezger doesn't have heaps of oil control issues. And in the US the 996 Turbo and R33 GTR are roughly the same price these days. 996 maybe a bit more now that the hype has abated for old Skylines here.
    • these are not the same
    • Best kept secret for seized bolts is crayons... Heat the sucker up with a torch, and push/melt crayon into it. Works a wonder. See if I can go 2 from 2 for you on how to get your bolts out...
×
×
  • Create New...