Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi, will installing a pair of HKS cams (EX280 10:01 - IN272 10:08) require all new valve tip shims (in general)?

I know they need to always be checked, I'm just asking, on average, do most guys with stock heads require buying all new thicker/thinner shims to install these cams?

thank you

j.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/116308-hks-step-2-cams/
Share on other sites

It depends on the base circle of the cam as to whether you'll need the longer aftermarket buckets, but as for shim size pretty much after any cam swap you'll need to change/machine them for the correct lash.

Reason I ask is I already installed a unknown brand of cams (264/9.7 - 256/9.7) and all the stock shims worked out perfect on that swap.

I've heard of some cam makers keeping the base stock so that the stock shims do work. Just wondering if anyone has installed the HKS step 2 cams, and if so, did they need new shims....?

thanks - j.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/116308-hks-step-2-cams/#findComment-2138978
Share on other sites

Shims should be meaured and adjusted for each valve. This must be checked with a feeler gauge. I wouldn't just swap and hope for the best even if they say its OK. You should be accurate to 0.01mm or very close to this.

Edited by WetGTR
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/116308-hks-step-2-cams/#findComment-2141329
Share on other sites

Shims should be meaured and adjusted for each valve. This must be checked with a feeler gauge. I wouldn't just swap and hope for the best even if they say its OK. You should be accurate to 0.01mm or very close to this.

I know all that.... I keep asking the same question but get answers to something else.

I ask, from someone who knows, in general, do you have to buy all new shims when you install HKS step 2 cams on a stock unmolested head?

I know I should check the clearnces "after" the cam swap. I'm trying to plan ahead and know if most that have done this ended up buying all new shims.

thanks again - j.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/116308-hks-step-2-cams/#findComment-2141356
Share on other sites

I know all that.... I keep asking the same question but get answers to something else.

I ask, from someone who knows, in general, do you have to buy all new shims when you install HKS step 2 cams on a stock unmolested head?

I know I should check the clearnces "after" the cam swap. I'm trying to plan ahead and know if most that have done this ended up buying all new shims.

thanks again - j.

:O and again.......i used HKS step2 264 cams with the same lift as yours........I machined releifs for the cam lobe....and reshimmed the valves.....how can they say you have to or dont have to reshim....all depends on so many variables....valve wear, seat wear ect

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/116308-hks-step-2-cams/#findComment-2141609
Share on other sites

:mrt: and again.......i used HKS step2 264 cams with the same lift as yours........I machined releifs for the cam lobe....and reshimmed the valves.....how can they say you have to or dont have to reshim....all depends on so many variables....valve wear, seat wear ect

ok, so you bought 24 new shims. Thanks, thats what I needed to know...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/116308-hks-step-2-cams/#findComment-2141868
Share on other sites

ok, so you bought 24 new shims. Thanks, thats what I needed to know...

I'll make it easy

Case 1: Cams are standard base circle (32mm) - Which I think the HKS Step 2's are...but check

-> If you just drop the cam in, the clearance will be the same as it was before you did the cam swap, as the only thing that has changed is the camshaft. The only part of the cam lobe that determines the valve clearance is the back of the lobe, and this should not be worn.

HOWEVER, of course you should fit the cams and check clearance with a feeler gauge.

ALSO, you will probably find that on an old engine, the clearances will be a little on the high side due to wear on the lifters, shims and valve stems. But re-shimming is painful and expensive, so as long as the clearances are acceptable, you may be better off fitting the cams and setting the clearances properly if you ever pull the head off. Most guys that do heads don’t buy shims they just set the clearance by taking a touch off the stems when after they have cut the valves / seats.

Case 2: Cams are non standard base circle (32mm) – Tomei, Jun and others.

This is done so you can run big lift without flycutting the cylinder head. In this case, you will either need to reshim the entire head, or buy lifters with the correct offset for your base circle. If you use the right lifters, theoretically, your valve clearance won’t change, but there will be too many variables so you should reset.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/116308-hks-step-2-cams/#findComment-2142039
Share on other sites

no i didnt buy that many shims......fit the cams in the head....measure the clearance...write them all down in order take the shims out messure them then swap them accordingly......unless you have o clearance on any of the valves then you find the smallest shim you have and put the cams back in again and get a starting clearance from there

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/116308-hks-step-2-cams/#findComment-2144097
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • ok so if i wanted to go 18's i would go for 8's  in front 30+ or 32+ off set at front and the back 9 would be ok? what offset should i aim for.. then can i do some  hunting for wheel rim choices..    If i get this - will this fit all around: Size: 18 x 8.5 +37 - n what tyres size tyre should i get for front n back?  
    • Absolute f*cking nightmare. I had to take breaks constantly, and I was always pissed off when I got home. The line split in Italy on day 2 (we drove from the Netherlands), lol. Driving any narrow European town was... well, sh*t.   Appreciate it man. Here, I'll just drop a favourite from the load I took on Saturday.   I'll update here when things happen with the car, the thing is, with stock power and almost everything chassis-wise taken care of, there really are no problems. 268,000kms now and counting.  
    • Ah! I actually managed to snag a lightly used set.... that aren't so suitable for me right now. They don't work on a GTT without some cutting or creative heat moulding. I thought about reselling them myself cause I didn't want to murder them, but it looks like I'm probably going to attempt to murder them/melt them because I may as well. @GTSBoy @PranK can somebody close this thread?
    • Hey mate,  I have a set, one is slightly damaged but wont be noticable once installed.  Shoot me a message if your still after them 
    • I couldn't wait But, the black constant tension hose clamps were too thick and there wasn't enough clearance at the T/B and I couldn't get it to seat properly, so I had use a silver one there I also added some 3" silicone over the alloy bit that goes through to hole on the radiator support as it looked like it was sitting on the edge of the hole in the radiator support, I never noticed a rattle or anything, but there was a witness mark It is basicly done, and I can live with the silver hose clamp at the T/B, I will get a black clamp for the head vent though where it is attached to the bulkhead fitting  It never stops...LOL, only issue now with the shock tower brace is it slightly touches the under bonnet liner now, if I leave it it will either wear some paint off the brace where it touches, or damage the liner, so I removed the liner to see what I have to work with, with the liner removed I have about 20mm of clearance, but sadly the middle part of the underside of the bonnet is only dusted with paint and looks crap, so I cannot have that, but.... as I have a roll of Carbuilders premium under bonnet insulation in the garage laying around that is only 5.5mm thick (we were going to use it on the boys Patrol, but he crashed the front of it a few months and it was written off, hence why he now drives my old Honda Accord Euro), I'll use the OEM liner as a template and get the Carbuilders stuff fitted up to cover that dusted paint up
×
×
  • Create New...