Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 513
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Well done everyone, looks like you all had a ball.

Nice time Paul, 1:09.886 is a top effort, on slicks?.

Looks real dry down there but glad it didn't rain on the weekend.

Hoping to catch the next one, Eastern Creek? :)

awwwww, what a weekend! PHEW! I am soooo tired. I should have really gone to bed before 5am on Sunday morning :)

No hot water... no scrap that... NO WATER and no HEAT was bad, but we all made do.

I would like to thank everyone for putting up with my shit over the weekend. I know I was loud and annoying and boisterous, and my drunken boob flashes and random ass grabs didn't help the situation, so cheers to those who put up with it :D

In total, I took about 165 pics and about 8 videos. My computer is being a piece of shit atm, so when it's finished it's hissy fit, I will upload them for all to see. Got a great pic of you infront of Ando, Liz :D

Anna xoxo

yay. i had a really good time.

AND THANKS CORINNE AND ADAM :( for helping sam and i on the freeway

and also PAUL. for giving me some pointers on lines... il get there

soooo much diferant than the street.

:(:dry::D no brake fluid for you! and spending extra hrs on the freeway following your sorry slow ass, or have you forgotten :(:dry: :dry: :(:D

Yes, it was by far the best RENEW's day we had, they had their sh!t together, we were on the track early and I did about 160 laps, a great day, well done RENEWS and SAU. TOP SHOW!

Im very happy with the 1.09 it was my goal for the day and I got there, I did crack a rotor I will post up some pics for a laugh! If any of the passangers were wondering what that shutter was, it was the rotor's I check twice but both times the crack was under the caliper. I drove home without using the brakes once, goto love that M7! Drove into UAS at 8.30am on Monday morning and drove out at 10am with DBA 4000 rotors, Im not sure if they will improve my times, but I can no longer say I have STD brakes and suspension, as I now have an upgrade, even if the upgrade was 7% the cost of the original Nissan part.

FYI $220 for DBA's $3300 GTR STD rotor.

Well done to all first timers, everyone drove hard but not stupid, and it shows with no broken cars or accidents, well done everyone top work, and I trust we will see you at the next day.

Well done everyone, looks like you all had a ball.

Nice time Paul, 1:09.886 is a top effort, on slicks?.

Looks real dry down there but glad it didn't rain on the weekend.

Hoping to catch the next one, Eastern Creek? :D

Ports, I clocked a 1.12 on my road tyres first up in the morning, slicked up and got down to 1.09, it was dry all day, and yes see you at EC.

Awesome stuff Paul!

It was no surprise to see your best lap as 1:09! I think someone else also mentioned the amount of grip your car has is phenominal!

You had a great impact on the day by showing the first timers how it's done, and giving constructive advice to people you had a ride with. Thank you very much for the advice!

____________________________________________

I had to use my brakes (and my fire extinguisher!!) fairly heavily on the freeway! We had a truck towing a couple of motorbikes on a trailer in front of us, and the right hand wheel fell off the trailer. The hub slammed into the ground and sparks covered the entire road. A wheel and other assorted suspension gear almost took out my brother, but luckily caused no damage. The driver did amazingliy well to control the truck & trailer as it drifted sideways for a while and then came to a stop...

I ended up having to use my extinguisher to put out the fire which resulted!

Does anyone know whether its worth it to get the Quell(?) 1kg extinguisers recharged or is it cheaper just to buy a new one?

yay. i had a really good time.

AND THANKS CORINNE AND ADAM :D for helping sam and i on the freeway :s

and also PAUL. for giving me some pointers on lines... il get there :P

soooo much diferant than the street.

YOur Welcome darls :)

I think they are a one shot through away. Everyone was welcome, a great group of first timers and hopefully a new wave of trackers!

Awesome stuff Paul!

It was no surprise to see your best lap as 1:09! I think someone else also mentioned the amount of grip your car has is phenominal!

You had a great impact on the day by showing the first timers how it's done, and giving constructive advice to people you had a ride with. Thank you very much for the advice!

____________________________________________

I had to use my brakes (and my fire extinguisher!!) fairly heavily on the freeway! We had a truck towing a couple of motorbikes on a trailer in front of us, and the right hand wheel fell off the trailer. The hub slammed into the ground and sparks covered the entire road. A wheel and other assorted suspension gear almost took out my brother, but luckily caused no damage. The driver did amazingliy well to control the truck & trailer as it drifted sideways for a while and then came to a stop...

I ended up having to use my extinguisher to put out the fire which resulted!

Does anyone know whether its worth it to get the Quell(?) 1kg extinguisers recharged or is it cheaper just to buy a new one?

Does anyone know whether its worth it to get the Quell(?) 1kg extinguisers recharged or is it cheaper just to buy a new one?

they are cheap as now..around the 20-30 dollar mark.

Yes thanks paul for great advice out there for firsttimer, definately wont be the last track day for first timers everyone had great day.

Dont know if i listen to your advice too much paul in my first time out..spinning 3 times :D...then your advice kicked in and stayed on the track the rest of the day .




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, apparently they do fit, however this wont be a problem if not because the car will be stationary while i do the suspension work. I was just going to use the 16's to roll the old girl around if I needed to. I just need to get the E90 back on the road first. Yes! I'm a believer! 🙌 So, I contacted them because the site kinda sucks and I was really confused about what I'd need. They put together a package for me and because I was spraying all the seat surfaces and not doing spot fixes I decided not to send them a headrest to colour match, I just used their colour on file (and it was spot on).  I got some heavy duty cleaner, 1L of colour, a small bottle of dye hardener and a small bottle of the dye top coat. I also got a spray gun as I needed a larger nozzle than the gun I had and it was only $40 extra. From memory the total was ~$450 ish. Its not cheap but the result is awesome. They did add repair bits and pieces to the quote originally and the cost came down significantly when I said I didn't need any repair products. I did it over a weekend. The only issues I had were my own; I forgot to mix the hardener into the dye two coats but I had enough dye for 2 more coats with the hardener. I also just used up all the dye because why not and i rushed the last coat which gave me some runs. Thankfully the runs are under the headrests. The gun pattern wasn't great, very round and would have been better if it was a line. It made it a little tricky to get consistent coverage and I think having done the extra coats probably helped conceal any coverage issues. I contacted them again a few months later so I could get our X5 done (who the f**k thought white leather was a good idea for a family car?!) and they said they had some training to do in Sydney and I could get a reduced rate on the leather fix in the X5 if I let them demo their product on our car. So I agreed. When I took Bec in the E39 to pick it up, I showed them the job I'd done in my car and they were all (students included) really impressed. Note that they said the runs I created could be fixed easily at the time with a brush or an air compressor gun. So, now with the two cars done I can absolutely recommend Colourlock.  I'll take pics of both interiors and create a new thread.
    • Power is fed to the ECU when the ignition switch is switched to IGN, at terminal 58. That same wire also connects to the ECCS relay to provide both the coil power and the contact side. When the ECU sees power at 58 it switches 16 to earth, which pulls the ECCS relay on, which feeds main power into the ECU and also to a bunch of other things. None of this is directly involved in the fuel pump - it just has to happen first. The ECU will pull terminal 18 to earth when it wants the fuel pump to run. This allows the fuel pump relay to pull in, which switches power on into the rest of the fuel pump control equipment. The fuel pump control regulator is controlled from terminal 104 on the ECU and is switched high or low depending on whether the ECU thinks the pump needs to run high or low. (I don't know which way around that is, and it really doesn't matter right now). The fuel pump control reg is really just a resistor that controls how the power through the pump goes to earth. Either straight to earth, or via the resistor. This part doesn't matter much to us today. The power to the fuel pump relay comes from one of the switched wires from the IGN switch and fusebox that is not shown off to the left of this page. That power runs the fuel pump relay coil and a number of other engine peripherals. Those peripherals don't really matter. All that matters is that there should be power available at the relay when the key is in the right position. At least - I think it's switched. If it's not switched, then power will be there all the time. Either way, if you don't have power there when you need it (ie, key on) then it won't work. The input-output switching side of the relay gains its power from a line similar (but not the same as) the one that feeds the ECU. SO I presume that is switched. Again, if there is not power there when you need it, then you have to look upstream. And... the upshot of all that? There is no "ground" at the fuel pump relay. Where you say: and say that pin 1 Black/Pink is ground, that is not true. The ECU trigger is AF73, is black/pink, and is the "ground". When the ECU says it is. The Blue/White wire is the "constant" 12V to power the relay's coil. And when I say "constant", I mean it may well only be on when the key is on. As I said above. So, when the ECU says not to be running the pump (which is any time after about 3s of switching on, with no crank signal or engine speed yet), then you should see 12V at both 1 and 2. Because the 12V will be all the way up to the ECU terminal 18, waiting to be switched to ground. When the ECU switches the fuel pump on, then AF73 should go to ~0V, having been switched to ground and the voltage drop now occurring over the relay coil. 3 & 5 are easy. 5 is the other "constant" 12V, that may or may not be constant but will very much want to be there when the key is on. Same as above. 3 goes to the pump. There should never be 12V visible at 3 unless the relay is pulled in. As to where the immobiliser might have been spliced into all this.... It will either have to be on wire AF70 or AF71, whichever is most accessible near the alarm. Given that all those wires run from the engine bay fusebox or the ECU, via the driver's area to the rear of the car, it could really be either. AF70 will be the same colour from the appropriate fuse all the way to the pump. If it has been cut and is dangling, you should be able to see that  in that area somewhere. Same with AF71.   You really should be able to force the pump to run. Just jump 12V onto AF72 and it should go. That will prove that the pump itself is willing to go along with you when you sort out the upstream. You really should be able to force the fuel pump relay on. Just short AF73 to earth when the key is on. If the pump runs, then the relay is fine, and all the power up to both inputs on the relay is fine. If it doesn't run (and given that you checked the relay itself actually works) then one or both of AF70 and AF71 are not bringing power to the game.
    • @PranK can you elaborate further on the Colorlock Dye? The website has a lot of options. I'm sure you've done all the research. I have old genuine leather seats that I have bought various refurbing creams and such, but never a dye. Any info on how long it lasts? Does it wash out? Is it a hassle? What product do I actually need? Am I just buying this kit and following the steps the page advises or something else? https://www.colourlockaustralia.com.au/colourlock-leather-repair-kit-dye.html
    • These going to fit over the big brakes? I'd be reeeeeeeeaaaall hesitant to believe so.
    • The leather work properly stunned me. Again, I am thankful that the leather was in such good condition. I'm not sure what the indent is at the top of the passenger seat. Like somebody was sitting in it with a golf ball between their shoulders. The wheels are more grey than silver now and missing a lot of gloss.  Here's one with nice silver wheels.
×
×
  • Create New...