Jump to content
SAU Community

Unable To Pump Petrol Properly

sloutch
 Share

Recommended Posts

sloutch Mentor

sloutch

Posted
Posted

Hi Guys,

not sure what topic title to state so i just stated my problem.

What i am experiencing now is that the petrol 'hole/inlet' at the back of the skyline seems to be too small for the fuel pump nozzle to go in. Only a small portion of the nozzle gets into the 'hole'.

I tried to tilt the nozzle in different ways but it doesn't seem to fit.

I know this is a rare situation but can i know if anyone else have this problem? Anyone can let me know the remedy to it?

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/117761-unable-to-pump-petrol-properly/
Share on other sites
R33S2 Grand Master

R33S2

Posted
Posted

So you cant get the nozzle into the fuel fill hole?

where are you located? I ask because in australia they put a restrictor in to stop ppl using leaded fuel in unleaded vehicles, and what you've described sound like it.

Amaru Veteran

Amaru

Posted
Posted

Has the car been in an accident before you bought it? Have seen this happen many a time when the car has had a rear impact and it pushes the fuel neck out of alignment. Only happens when people dont repair the car properly.

sloutch Mentor

sloutch

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Has the car been in an accident before you bought it? Have seen this happen many a time when the car has had a rear impact and it pushes the fuel neck out of alignment. Only happens when people dont repair the car properly.

Nah doubt it as i've brought it to a relative who's a mechanic and owns his own workshop. He hoisted the car up and did a thorough bumper to bumper check. No sign of uneven chassis bodyline or anything at all.

What i heard is that, during compliance, this fuel 'thing' should be changed. The RAWS place must have put a lousy fuel neck on. Anyone wishes to confirm with me?

someonestolecc Grand Master

someonestolecc

Posted
Posted
Took me about 10 mins to pump full tank today.

The servo dude used his mic from inside the store asked me " excuse me sir, do you want me to help you fill up the tank? "

LOL

take a picture. if it's the incorrect nozzle thing you can ask a workshop to do it for cheap or get a nozzle kit thingy and do it yourself.

sloutch Mentor

sloutch

Posted
  • Author
Posted

IMO, i see the nozzle the same as all other cars. I'll definitely bring it to a RAWS to get it checked again.

Yes, i did twist and turn the nozzle around to fill it up, petrol just keep coming out.

Cogs, don't worry i have my sexual life in control :woot:

SKY031 Grand Master

SKY031

Posted
Posted

How much of the nozzle are you trying to cram in?

There's probably nothing wrong with it at all, you're just assuming that it should go in further than it does.

Years ago the nozzles used to be able to go right up to the hilt, but things change, and this isn't the case anymore.

They've probably done this intentionally to stop people jamming the pumps on and walking away.

...also, if less of the nozzle can fit inside the tank, the tank can ultimately hold more fuel before the pump switches off.

Good for the fuel companies who can make an extra few bucks, not so good for the people who are driving around wondering why their car smells like petrol because the tank is over full.

Open your fuel flap, take off the cap, get a tape measure, put the tape measure across the fuel filler, take a photo.

sloutch Mentor

sloutch

Posted
  • Author
Posted

SKY031, Nope i don't think i went too far in. This is the 2nd skyline i've own and the previous skyline was totally fine. My previous cars were fine too. Not saying that i expect the entire nozzle to go in though but it's really ridiculous now. Takes me ages to fill up when i can't even press the 'trigger' fully.

Alright, looks like i have to take pictures of the filler tml.

ARchie, lol nice try buddy :ermm:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • perry_r33
      R34 GTR Vspec Garage Sale - All must go!

      By perry_r33 · Posted

      Pm sent 
    • Robot
      Skyline v36 350GT sedan hunting on idle

      By Robot · Posted

      Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...