Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

im looking for a step by step guide to flushing coolant, re filling etc. the whole deal.

Did a search but cant find a guide.

I noticed the coolant bottle was empty and i heard if you dont know what coolant you used before, using another when you top up could create a jelly and clog you radiator.

anyone help??

Thanks.

you could empty your radiator, then fill with water mixed with a flushing agent, then drain and fill up as normal.

there is a drain plug on passenger side of the radiator, undo that (or the bottom hose)

fill the rad to the top with your water/coolant mix.

then start the car with the heater on.

let it run for a while and the coolant level will drop, keep filling it up as it drops...

once the car is up to temp. put the cap on the radiator, and then bleed the system further using the bleed point at the front of the plenum. 12mm bolt with a heta warning sticker.

open that and let the bubbles come out, once no more bubbles come out, tighten it up and away you go.

i should only use distilled water??

what flushing agent do i use??

which coolant do you all recommend? Nissan stuff?

distilled water = im on tank water so i dont have the nasties from normal tap water, so i would suggest yes if you can afford it

flushing agent = is like a nulon or something (small bottle like octane booster injector cleaner etc) ... you dont have to do this. if you look in the radiator cap and see lots of rusty coloured gunk. either use a high pressure hose, or pay a radiator place to flush the radiator (if temps are an issue this would be recommended)

coolant = i run the green Nulon concentrate, running to about 30% mix . note the more coolant you use the less heat transfer the fluid has, but higher boiling point.. so more does not mean it will cool better.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
×
×
  • Create New...