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if your clutch is slipping then it will rev out without you actually travelling any faster (like wheelspin, but its the clutch that slips not the wheels), and you would be able to smell it.

That is pretty much my problem, the car revs but doesn't really accelerate, just like a slipping clutch (or another way of putting it would be a really sloppy downchange in an auto). There is no burning smell though, but others have said that they have had the same problem and the clutch does not smell much at all.

yeah the clutch only smells if it is really slipping. when mine was hesitating it felt like it was being help back up top, but it certainly isn't my clutch slipping as it is a heavy clutch and it chrips gears rather well. it was more a feeling as if the timing was being retarded, and my air/fuel guage says its running rich. but i'm going to stick it on the dyno in the next few days so we'll see how it goes.

yea i might just change my fuel filter and see how it goes.. i think it maybe a bad batch of fuel... Has anyone heard bad things with shell fuel??? i been told it creates a "sludge" in the fuel... is this true?

i think it has more to do with where you buy your fuel than what brand it is. the shell servo in town here has had a few problems cause the tanks are old and made from steel and were actually starting to rust, but they shut for a month or 2 and had new tanks put in. the advantage the bp has over shell is that optimax is an average of 98ron, where bp is minimum 98ron.

but the problem is that the problem could be caused by so many things. it could be the computer playing silly buggers, it could be coil packs, could be fuel filter, could be spark plugs, could be fuel pump, could be air flow meter, could be o2 sensor... the list goes on. and its too expensive to change everything.

Well it not a big issue at the moment.. ill wait it out till i got my FMIC installed.. and then invest in an Apexi Power FC and tune it... next service ill replace spark plugs and fuel filter along with oil + filter... see how we go...

cheers

ok guys, today i filled my car with a fresh tank of BP ultimate from a servo near campbelltown rather then the regular BP in Cecil hills and my shuddering problem seems to have vanished... bad batch of fuel by the looks of it...

I know ay! lol i will still change the fuel filter on my next service...

Oh by the way on another note... it was nice to see my car breaking traction in 3rd on the way home from uni while raining after fixing my coils ($11 Shelley's Silicon) :D hehe

initially i put about 1 - 2mm of Selley's 401 industrial grade silicon (withstands heat 205 deg/C) on the sides where the arking had caused burn marks and took it for a run with no misfire.. then 2 days later misfire came back... so pulled them out and put another 2 - 3mm layer all over the coils (total 4 - 5mm) this may seem too thick however silicon is flexable once dry and coils will fit in if applied neatly... i covered the top, bottom, sides, front, back... except where the rubber boots were... once dry i fit them back into their frames and put them back in... problem 100% solved (2 - 3 weeks so far of hard driving) and im pretty sure its a 100% fix cause unlike PVC tape and apoxy glue, silicon withstands high heat and is an excellent insulator... :ermm:

Edited by QRI05E

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