Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

im guna get flamed for this.... bring it on i guess.....

what are the chances of a 500hp r33 gtst, using stock box and diff, to run slicks and not break anything? im not talking a soft launch, im talking , front wheels reaching for the sky 8500rpm clutch ripping type of launch...

i have a set of michellin slicks and mt front runners, and i really want to improve my launches, and ive notice alot of hipo skylines do a rev limitting launch... i know it isnt healthy to do this, but will this much force shear a standard drivetrain? any people had experience with this? any and any reccomended slicks??? PLEASE HELP!!!

Edited by danielson
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/118724-time-for-slicks/
Share on other sites

go to www.wild1motorsport.com

and view my skyline

my advice is get a gtr diff cradle

and good suspension

such as HKS

rev to 8000 and drop the clutch

the clips on the site are with MT street tyres

i have the slick pass which i ran 10.8 on my computer which is ready for uploadinng and will be uploaded this week

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/118724-time-for-slicks/#findComment-2185600
Share on other sites

500hp, slicks, preped drag strip? Rev Limit launch, standard driveline = something broken.

That is my "expert opinion".

So true………

MT ET Street radials + 320 bhp + good suspension + 6,000 rpm launch = broken clutch

WSID 10/5/06

;) cheers :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/118724-time-for-slicks/#findComment-2192966
Share on other sites

What car is this?

Our white R33GTST project car, sort of a replacement for the R34GTT daily driver I had a couple of years ago. Bought it cheap a few months ago, needed rego and SOME work, it's getting there. So far it has a Power FC with Boost Control Kit, standard R32GTR intercooler, alloy 120 degree pipework, Bilstein and Whiteline suspension, GTRGeoff HICAS eliminator, Magic cat, Nismo FPR, GTR fuel pump and a quick and dirty road tune by me using the Tech Edge A/F ratio meter.

Following the clutch failure at WSID, right now it is getting a new clutch, lightened flywheel and serviced gearbox (no synchro on 4th and 5th). Plus I had to drive it home clutchless (testing my dog box rpm matching skills). We just wanted to get a base time on the standard turbo, but too much traction from the MT ET’s for the unknown clutch.

A GCG ball bearing high flow is ready to go on shortly with a Performance Metalcraft split dump, followed by a set of injectors and a pair of 256 Tomei Poncams. Looking for around 265 rwkw and a mid 11's 1/4 at around 125 mph. Before then it will get some new DBA slotted rotors, a set of Hawke pads and a timing belt change.

Plenty to do, no time to do it in.

;) cheers :D

Edited by Sydneykid
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/118724-time-for-slicks/#findComment-2194007
Share on other sites

cool, thats fairly similar spec to my car actually

you think a Auto gearbox with valvebody, shift kit, and transcooler would be fine if I used Mickey Thompson Street ET? considering stock torque converter is arround 2000rpm only and not 6000rpm dump the clutch launch ehehhe

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/118724-time-for-slicks/#findComment-2195018
Share on other sites

cool, thats fairly similar spec to my car actually

you think a Auto gearbox with valvebody, shift kit, and transcooler would be fine if I used Mickey Thompson Street ET? considering stock torque converter is arround 2000rpm only and not 6000rpm dump the clutch launch ehehhe

Hi, as you increase the engine torque output you will find the torque converted stalls at a higher rpm. For example I can get the Stagea up to 2,500 rpm on the standard turbo which gives 11psi at launch. This generates considerable heat, so make sure that you have a decent transmission cooler.

If you can spin the wheels now, then decent tyres will help. I like the MT Street radials as I don’t have to change front tyres and the guys are down to low 10’s using them, so they obviously work OK.

:P Cheers :)

Edited by Sydneykid
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/118724-time-for-slicks/#findComment-2200489
Share on other sites

Hi, as you increase the engine torque output you will find the torque converted stalls at a higher rpm. For example I can get the Stagea up to 2,500 rpm on the standard turbo which gives 11psi at launch. This generates considerable heat, so make sure that you have a decent transmission cooler.

If you can spin the wheels now, then decent tyres will help. I like the MT Street radials as I don’t have to change front tyres and the guys are down to low 10’s using them, so they obviously work OK.

:D Cheers :(

Hey SK thanks for the advice, I have a oil temp gauge hooked up to my transmission cooler to monitor temps.

But my engine is a RB30 with HKS2535 so it boost pretty early

Plan to stall it on the line and launch as hard as I can with MT Street ET

My street tyres are Bridgestones RE01 and its very easy to spin them on first gear

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/118724-time-for-slicks/#findComment-2201016
Share on other sites

post-695-1148455884.jpg

post-695-1148455916.jpg

5500rpm launch on MT ET Street Radials. Clean sheared the CV Shaft in half. 6500rpm and the bearing cage explodes. Big.

I only make 355hp @ the tyres (approx 410 engine hp).

Adrian

f**k me man, u would have thought the clutch or box would go 1st, not the driveshafts.... good job!!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/118724-time-for-slicks/#findComment-2201654
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...
whats with this jimm berry clutch your talking about, who deals with them? are they really as good as you seem to think?

I think Jim Berry is in Brisbane, Aaron at Wayne Park Automotive organised a clutch through him for me and he knows Jim quite well... Clutch is a single plate with about 2800 pounds clamp pressure std is about 1800. I hear people talking about 4000 pounds, but so far so good with 2800. have launched the car countless times and never a problem, just dial up about 6500 and let it out quiclky and all four light up on the std gtr 16's. 18's now fitted but yet to launch it with the increased traction.. nice smooth easy clutch to operate...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/118724-time-for-slicks/#findComment-2294684
Share on other sites

whats with this jimm berry clutch your talking about, who deals with them? are they really as good as you seem to think?

Jim Berry is the name of the owner/guy who makes custom clutches for all types of applications. He swears by a big single even for 800hp+ drag cars (subzero soarer, millenium motorsport supra)

he hates twin plates with a passion, so dont even ask him what he thinks of them >_<

also he is quite 'cheap', bout half of what youd pay for a jap twin plate :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/118724-time-for-slicks/#findComment-2296470
Share on other sites

5500rpm launch on MT ET Street Radials. Clean sheared the CV Shaft in half. 6500rpm and the bearing cage explodes. Big.

I only make 355hp @ the tyres (approx 410 engine hp).

Adrian

Hi Adrain, I keep telling you it's not the max power thats' the problem. :D:no:

It's the NOS making the axles brittle. :P:D

:D cheers :D

SK

Don't forget the Bass Junky Air Deflector ;)

I wouldn't know, I don't have one :D

:D cheers :D

Edited by Sydneykid
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/118724-time-for-slicks/#findComment-2297790
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
    • I'd ask the shop what they used and use that. Mixing coolants is sometimes OK, sometimes not, and you have know the details of each coolant to know whether it's a good idea or not.
    • Is it alright to top up with just another green coolant?
×
×
  • Create New...