Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Found something I want write now. Series 2 R33, so I want to know I have a buyer now.

$8,000 for the next two days.

Have an offer already, just looking to get a little more. Will take $8,000.

  • Replies 45
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I have decided I will buy that skyline on friday. If I can sell this before than, I'll let it go cheap.

If not, I'll stash it in mums spare shed and wait until someone comes up with a better offer.

taking any offers around 8k today and tomorrow.

Id so bloody buy that right now... except my car is in pieces so I cant sell it to buy that... ; ;

If your still selling this when I get mine back together, consider it sold!

One of the last price drops I feel. A few people have expressed interest now but have reasons why they can't.

$7,500 now.

I really should make that WITH OUT the microtech, with a stock diff, with a T25G and with smaller rims.

At this stage that all still comes with, but I'll start selling things off soon.

I think its relevant to mention, I now own a series 2 GTSt skyline as of today.

Jumping from one to the other, as i can do now, i can say the gazelle is alot faster, more power, heavier clutch, much stiffer suspension, certainly more of a drivers car.

hey mate just wondering if youd swap a 1990 nissan exa with 17 inch chromies exhaust bodykit not fitted colour coded plastic interior parts and more nice looking car worth about$7000 i really wanna get into drifting call me 0434895812 or leave a msg cheers

Not really after a swap because I really do actually have a Series 2 skyline now.

Also, I'd only swap a car which is easy to sell cause thats all I'd be doing and an exa isn't easy to sell for $7,000.... if it is, sell it and I'll sell you mine for $7k.

Bump.

As I have to keep saying to people, the reasons for sale are genuine. I do have a skyline now, I can show you that too if you come look at S12.

I am not into street racing so yes, the S12 is much faster, but I would prefer to own the skyline at this stage... I thought alot of people would understand that... its ok though, if you don't believe me, come for a ride in both. :laugh:

I can vouch for this car. I have been in it at eastern creek during a drift day and I can say it is a very fast and very well set up car for drift. the guy who built it knows what he is doing and the car is not dodge in the slightest.

really nice tight little car. perfect for getting into drifting...

Hey, so is this an N/A SR20 with the Turbo added on?

Yeah its a NA block, with a turbo head. So it does have the injectors of the turbo. The higher compression means you don't feel the lag very much. Please see my dyno sheet and first post if you are wonder how the car was built and with what.

I can vouch for this car. I have been in it at eastern creek during a drift day and I can say it is a very fast and very well set up car for drift. the guy who built it knows what he is doing and the car is not dodge in the slightest.

really nice tight little car. perfect for getting into drifting...

cheers mate.

Yeah the guy that did all the work really knows what he is doing and only sold it to start another project, which is also coming along very well.

the car is much more similar to my old R32 GTR (which had coilovers) to drive than I would have expected. Alot quicker and better handling than my R33 GTSt.

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After using a protractor for an actually accurate assessment of what is required,  and by NOT using my uncalibrated eyeball I worked out I need a 25° silicone bend from the TB ro the MAF, but, my choice was either a 30° or a 23° (23° is a weird spec), so I grabbed the 23° one from Raceworks I also grabbed 1mtr of 3" straight from Just Jap, I needed 350mm, but they only had 300mm, or 1mtr lengths....meh Also ordered a 1/2" hose bulkhead fitting from fleabay, this has a smoothish mushroom looking head (they are designed for below the water line of boats) that will fit inside the bend, the hose bit and threaded bit looks to long, but nothing that a hacksaw cannot fix if required, the hose will then just get jamed on the threaded bit up to the retaining nut Fingers crossed and the unsightly amount of hose clamps will be reduced down to 4 once all the parts arrive 
    • Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...