Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Im looking at selling my RB26/30 with custom stainless exhaust manifold and 63mm wastegate. The engine is previously from Mighty6.

If i dont get what im after ill continue my project.

Specs of the engine are as follows:

RB30 Bottom end

Cryoed crank

Arp rod bolts and head studs

Argo rods

Custom JE Pistons with with 22mm Gudgeon pins and lowered ring lands

3/4 grout filled block

copper head gasket

RB26 Head

Heavily ported by headsense

Heavy duty valve springs

HKS Cams

Inlet plenum

105mm throttle body

Direct port NOS system (including soleniods and 10 pound bottle)

Rochester 1240cc injectors

Additional injector rail

Custom fuel rail

Custom high mount exhaust manifold with T6 flange

Engine built to handle 1200HP by Hardcore Racing components. Would consider seperating parts but only in the groups as set up above.

Im looking for $12,000 negotiable for the Lot

PM me if interested,

or call 0404212391 (may not answer due to work so leave me an sms and ill get back to you)

Cheers,

Scott

Edited by Shwartz_sticker
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/118964-fs-rb2630-built-to-handle-1200hp/
Share on other sites

Engine has previously pulled 784rwhp without NOS and 9.3second quarter

how many kays/runs has engine done since last rebuild.

can you confirm if comp test/leak down test/general check has been done recently-ie any sort of assurance available as to condition.

how many kays/runs has engine done since last rebuild.

can you confirm if comp test/leak down test/general check has been done recently-ie any sort of assurance available as to condition.

apparently the fact it has 3/4 grout fill renders it not favourable for my circuit racing purposes. thanks for the reponse but i have just purchased PVL's..

I bought it off Goran (the guy who had it in the VL). I have a fair few personal "issues" at the moment and im thinking off selling. If i dont get what i want ill still keep it.

Edited by Shwartz_sticker

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Waaay ahead of ya....(evil laugh!!) Will show the fitment and spec details later when it isnt as rainy !
    • Thanks Dose.....    I appreciate it!!
    • I'll probably be putting the shit box back on the dyno again soon, I want to dial in the closed loop boost control properly. I'll have a camera facing the car/motor for fun too. Just note, there are essentially 3x 10AN inlets going into the catch can and 1x going back to the intake pipe. Most of the time the catch can "return" to the sump actually is the crank case breather, pushing air out.
    • I have the R3C with a Nismo slave and by no means does it behave like a stocker, it ain’t THAT bad. On take off just give a bit more throttle than you would say a coppermix and it’s fine. It will not slip though.   
    • Okay. Final round of testing done. Got a friend to hook up a fancy scanner to the car and we also ran some compression and leakdown tests, she is healthy.  The MAF was definitely the culprit. So for future reference anyone with similar issues that find this thread. I suggest the following steps, in order of affordability:   Check your spark plugs for any fouling, replace plugs if they are bad or re adjust the gaps making it narrower (0.8mm would be good). Check every coil's resistance with a multimeter. It can be done by probing the IB and G pins on the coil pack. Resistance should be around 1.4 (+/- 0.1) Ohms Check the MAF. If you have Nissan connect or a good scanner with the 14 adapter it should allow you to see the voltage on the MAF reading should be around 1.1 - 1.2V when car is idling. But if you don't, buy a new MAF from Amazon and test, then return it. (For instance, I got a Chinese one for $40 that was reporting 1.3v on idle). If you still have scanner, you can run tests on the injectors to see if they are working, just remember to unplug the fuel pump fuse/relay and have no pressure on the line. Then listen for the noises that the injectors make. Clean/replace injectors as needed. Once you find the issue and fix, order thousands of dollars worth of OEM parts to refresh unrelated things (Optional)   PS: Thanks to the absolute legends of this forum for the responses and help to someone that went a bit over their head. (me)
×
×
  • Create New...