Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've always been in sales so I don't trust the bastards. Got good replies to my previous audio post so lets see how we go with this one (thanks guys)

98 Maxima.

Goals, guidelines.

Sound quality. (I hate having a big freq gap between the speakers and the sub, that ricey all bass/treb doof setup)

No hard work. This includes making parcel shelves, cutting metal, speakers not fitting into factory positions.

Relatively low cost - I'm not a big audio guy, I just want a decent system that can play anything from punk to electro chunk and sound nice, not trying to win any comps or turn it up so loud the vibes give me a hard on, but I digress.

Don't want shit quality stuff.

Head unit, 4ch amp, front splits, rears for fill, sub in box. front splits and sub amped.

Head unit - mp3 capable, eq adjustment, time delay adjustability to get sub in line with speakers would be sweet and if it had somewhere to plug an ipod into that would be sweet too. Might be asking a bit much on these last 2 points if keeping cost down?

Speakers - something that gives fairly even sound, bit of clarity.

Amp - i got no idea, but we arent going for the worlds loudest car, just need to run the sub. being able to adj the point at which the sub operates necessity (i dont know if they all have this function.

I can get hold of a new (but about 5yrs old) 12" sub for next to nothing so will just put that in a box.

Anyone got brands/models/ideas would be great to hear.

Thanks.

Whats your budget? But I say eclipse or alpine head deck.

Speakers god knows

Amps the jcar ones seem to be pretty good clean power, quite a few guys use them with no problems.

Also if your still in Brisbane dude, go to Northfield at Moorooka, and speak to Brian (or Drew, no on else) they wont muck you about. I was in there one day and Brian spent over an hour answering my questions about anything and everything car audio, when all I went there for was some sound deadening, and which was apparent all I really needed for my system.

You already have a gd knowledge, so why not just go out there and listen to them..

Personally i like my Hertz hsk 165s..

The other day I listened to my friends MBquarts and they sounded really good..

In my room i got a 12inch boston competitor sub running with a jaycar 350rms amp (not car amp) and the bass is just incredible. My fridge door downstairs vibrates as well everything else.. I like my low frequency bass.. not thump bass

So my preference is gonna be a another boston sub (G5)

Also heard friends dynoaudio (i think) sub-10inch and that has a lot of bass..

Amps wise- heard audison is up there.. Rockford for mono amp..

Even heard some basic pioneer speakers and they sounded really nice..

Go out there and listen and then buy..

Edit:

For headunit- i got alpine 9835 and that has all the functions you mentioned and can connnect ipod with ease..

Edited by siddr20

my pref for say a moderate budget is

a decent head unit with at least 2 pre outs that are 4-6 volts

fronts should be splits of the higher end by most manufactors which you like the sound of

eg pioneer tsc-160r or jl audio XR650-CSi

rears any 6 1/2" 2-3 way speaker that is reasonable as they are only for fill

sub i would recommened a jlw3v2 10 or 12 depends on the music you listen to.

amp i would go for a jl e4300

Really dude you need to go thru the advice on here, as its all different and work out what you want.

The new eclipse decks have the ipod stuff too. Honestly, the SQ of them is just insane.

Speakers, hertz, mb quart, dynas, bostons, focal, alpine, etc etc. You really are going to have to listen. Is the bit that plays the sound, it is important. 98 maxima should have ok rears. Id just leave them.

Amps I still say Jcar, everyone seems to think they are good value.

SOUND DEADENING!!!! You MUST have this. The difference it makes is huge, you will be throwing money away on everything else if you dont do this.

rear speakers are blown :D

what the hell is a pre-out?

sound deadening = pulling out windows and spraying exposed metal surfaces (same in boot)???

I don't know very much when it comes to audio, but I am looking into what to do to improve the sound in my car like yourself. I am going to sound deaden my front doors soon to improve the sound from the front speakers (JL Audio TR-650CSi's, probably could have got something better i know :ermm: ) Will possibly add a bit of deadening behind the rear seat and in the boot to help reduce road noise also.

A pre-out is the output signal from the headunit that goes to the amp to be amplified, as far as i know.

Headunits can have none or different variations, ie 1 front channel and one rear, or front, rear, and sub etc

The links below will show you what sound deadening is and various ways to do it.. it basically turns your door into a box for your front speakers if you cover the cutouts in the doors and do it properly. Stops things vibrating due to resonance too.

http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=73455

http://www.dynamat.com/technical_installat...it_install.html

http://www.caraudioaustralia.com/content.php?contentID=19

Good luck with it slip

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...