Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm a little worried about these light brush marks that are appearing on 3 of my windows.. The car sat around outside unused for probably close to a year and I guess some dirt has built up on the window guides..

Would spraying the windows with silicone spray or something worka s a deterrent? Before real scratches are formed.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/119260-brush-marks-on-windows/
Share on other sites

It's from the dirt collected in the felt brushes.

You need to drop the window a little and run plenty of water through them to stop it. I haven't yet been able to bring the marks out.

It also happened a little in the insides as well slightly marking my tint but no biggie.

Wash them every time you do the car.

The brushes are adjustable to some degree. If you remove the door skins, you will see them attached to a 8-10mm bolt.

I think you could be able to clean them like this:

Wind window down

Take off door skins

Using a coathanger, cup the pad from the top, so it doesn't fall in.

Unbolt them completely (8-10mm bolt I think) one at a time.

Using the coathanger, slide them up the window and into your hand.

Clean or resurface the pad

Reinstall.

Also, remove the clear plastic to get to them. While you're there, you'll see that the bottom of the window is FILTHY because it never comes all the way out.

Remove the drainage plug from the bottom of the door, if it has one. Mine just has little slits at the corner of the door.

Grab a hose, put it on gently, get some carwash or window cleaner... whatever you like, and then clean it through the large opening in the door. (pretty obvious when you have the doorskins off) Wind the window up a little so you can get to the very bottom.

If you do this without the dirty pads in there, make sure you have someone holding the window and guiding it, otherwise the window will rub and scratch on whatever metal it can find.

I'm not sure which bit you're talking about. Then again, a Laurel may be a different procedure than what I know for taking the door skins off.

My VP Berlina had inner chrome strips, and they just popped out with a screwdriver and a lot of cringing. I eventually replaced them all with new items anyway.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Pressure when IDLING, is meant to be 51PSi... So that amperage value needs to go up a fair chunk... I'd personally be factoring for more like 12amp at least on those runs, and at that point you need to hope the already there wiring doesn't drop you a volt or two, as that's a lot of fuel pressure flow drop off from 13.5 to 12V! Taking idle pressure of 51psi, means the pump will be drawing a MINIMUM of 9amps all the time based on your reading of the graph (3bar base, then allowing an extra 0.5bar for boost = roughly 51psi)
    • Hi all,  I am in the market for an R200 longnose diff out of a Z31 300ZX, or S12 RSX, DR30 skyline, or similar, in a 3.9 ratio.  Preferably a late model one with the M12 crownwheel bolts.  The only easy to find advert for one of these was my ad back in 2007 when I sold it on this forum.  I sold the diff as I had sold the car it goes to, but as it turns out, after 18 years I got the car back late last year, so now I'm looking for the diff !  If anyone knows where to find a longnose R200 LSD with the M12 crownwheel bolts, drop me a line at [email protected] - Bonus paid if soomeone comes up with the original diff (stranger things have happened !).  Cheers   Ben D    
    • Hi everyone, I used to post here a bit from 2004-2013, when I owned various Nissans, in particular my S12 RSX gazelle, which was sold in 2007.  As luck would have it, after an 18 year hiatus, the car found its way back to me last year, and over the past 11 months I have had the pleasure of restoring it with my kids.  One thing that I am after in particular is a 3.9 ratio R200 LSD for it.  I actually sold the one out of the car here back in 2007 , and it would be incredible if I could track down who I sold it to, so I can see how they have progressed over the years (and to be honest, to see whether I can get the diff back !).  Anyways, hi all and let me know "where are the R200 Longnose diffs all at these days ?  Cheers Ben D  
    • Arms will be the same as the G35 or 350Z, but as above, there was a change in the lower control arm where it connects to the ball joint.  That said, you can remove the ball joint cone from your old ball joints and fit them to the new ball joints.  To be honest, I didn't think the ball joints themselves were different. The main ball joint is a bit awkward to replace, you really need to remove the steering knuckle to press out the old one.  Some people have used tools to remove it in place, but it just seemed too hard to get to. If you are going to press out/in that ball joint, then you may as well just replace the bushings in the LCA and the compression rod.  You can buy the compression rod bushing from Nissan, but the LCA bushes, you will need to go aftermarket. Much cheaper than buying the whole arm.
    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
×
×
  • Create New...