Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

dad lives over here 3 weeks of every month, and he thought it would e good for me to come over for 2 weeks and stay in his apartment for something to do

so here i am :D

yo shane hypotheticly speaking,

if you had an R32 GTST that had an R33rb26 rwd conversion done its matched up to a 25 box and hardwired DLink ecu

Now take a basicly stock R33 GTST and swap the two engines between the cars loom and all - so the 32 had the 25 from the 33 and the 33 had the 26 from the 32

what are the problems/obsticles to overcome in doing this?

reason being my friend is looking at selling his freshly built car and if i can get the cash together he is considering the posibility of an engine swap

(he has decided to wear a skirt and buy a house)

yo shane hypotheticly speaking,

if you had an R32 GTST that had an R33rb26 rwd conversion done its matched up to a 25 box and hardwired DLink ecu

Now take a basicly stock R33 GTST and swap the two engines between the cars loom and all - so the 32 had the 25 from the 33 and the 33 had the 26 from the 32

what are the problems/obsticles to overcome in doing this?

reason being my friend is looking at selling his freshly built car and if i can get the cash together he is considering the posibility of an engine swap

you can ask me i am doing a conversion atm.....

yeah shane would blab on about r33's and rb26's...and 32's and curse each one....maybe.

but yeah as i said above....if you change everything, then just placement of items and radiator etc, and tailshaft, gearbox mount are the only bits i can think of, but then shane may think of something else.....oh you may need to make room for the different style plenum off the 26, fuel lines.....fuel pump, dump pipes...should change straight off the other car.

space wise should be fine as its a big single conversion

at the moment all i can think of is radiator and dump but they should be easy

how do the engine mounts go?

engine mounts are the same...as all the block castings are the same...as with the rb30.

but probably drive shaft...gearbox mount maybe....radiator.....space to do it...every thing else should match up...

what do you mean by driveshaft?

and the gearbox should be fine cause the 32 has a rb25box in it that th 26 is matched up with the clutch has been changed from pull to push or whatever it is

what do you mean by driveshaft?

and the gearbox should be fine cause the 32 has a rb25box in it that th 26 is matched up with the clutch has been changed from pull to push or whatever it is

ahh touche.....if they have the same box in them it wont be a prob...but if the 26 had a 26 box, then the length of the shaft might have changed....i think you need to get a different yoke ...i will find out soon.

yo shane hypotheticly speaking,

if you had an R32 GTST that had an R33rb26 rwd conversion done its matched up to a 25 box and hardwired DLink ecu

Now take a basicly stock R33 GTST and swap the two engines between the cars loom and all - so the 32 had the 25 from the 33 and the 33 had the 26 from the 32

what are the problems/obsticles to overcome in doing this?

reason being my friend is looking at selling his freshly built car and if i can get the cash together he is considering the posibility of an engine swap

(he has decided to wear a skirt and buy a house)

only problem i can see is in the loom/hard wired ecu form the rb26 car.

you have 2 options:

a) get someone who knows what they are doing and have wired in a link beofre to un-wire the ecu and transfer it into the other car

or

b) swap looms with the engines

option b would be heaps easier in my opinion, as you could do that urself pretty much, and u know its going to work (well ull have more of a chance of it working :P)

everything else will just swap straight over and bolt up :D

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So.... the K&N air box thingo was too big, ended up gifting it to a mate, well, by gifting it he actually supplied food and beer at the pub,  which was nice, as it will not sit on a shelf in the garage for the next 10 years I did trim up some of the existing stuff to neaten it all up and gave it some wrinkle paint, unfortunately it currently has a used and abused mish mash of different types of hose clamps, 4 big fat T bolt type (shit), and a few normal clamps of vairing sizes and brands, but..... only until the 6 constant tension black worm clamps that I ordered from EFI solutions turn up next week Currently the current hose clamps are triggering me hard, LOL Is this the final version, probably not, I really want just 2 silicone pieces, a straight bit of silicone from the filter to the MAF is easy and will happen as soon as I head into Just Jap tomorrow, the problematic part is a 30° silicone bend from the MAF to the TB that I can connect the engine breather from the head, I found that there are bulk head fittings for boat bilge pumps that should work, but until I can get a 30° silicone bend the alloy pipe, and the 11ty thousand hose clamps, are there for the foreseeable future 4 hose clamps are golden, 6 are grudgingly acceptable, the 8 currently holding it all together is just taking the piss    I've also ordered 60 more retaining wall blocks for the front yard, I mis-gonculated the height that was required to get above the base of the Photinia's (red robin's) that are the hedge behind the front fence, currently it is 2 blocks high, and about 1/2 a block short, so going 3 blocks high will be above the base of the red robin's, and allow some room for mulch
    • It is the stock air box with the panel filter. Everything else is stock except the exhaust at this point, as I also went back to the cleaned 270cc injectors. I will check the RPM when the IACV is unplugged and report back.
    • As MBS suggested if this is happening when the engine is cold you're going to want to remove the intake air regulator and verify resistance + that the shutter is physically opening and closing. At -20C should be fully open, 20C half open, over 60C fully closed. At 20C should be 70-80 ohms. For AAC valve testing using a Consult cable see if you can raise and lower the idle by commanding more or less AAC duty cycle. Hopefully it's pretty linear as well, shouldn't be like 30% AAC valve is barely idling and 40% is 1500 rpm.
    • Bloody apprentices! 🙄
    • Not sure yet.  Was considering speedtek because it was rated to 800hp, but when I did some research about him I don't think I will go for that🤣 So maybe giken gear set, but I'm afraid it won't be strong enough🙄
×
×
  • Create New...