Jump to content
SAU Community

R33 Gts-t Sedan Vs Coupe

Noel
 Share

Recommended Posts

Noel Community Regular

Noel

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hi

I am looking into buying an R33 GTS-T in about a month or so & am keen on a manual 4door sedan (for practicality & also something different) but was just wondering is there actually any difference between the sedan & coupe with regards to engine, suspension brakes etc or is it exactly the same?

Also what is a reasonable price for a good condition, low kms 1996 (series 2) R33 GTS-T Manual 4door sedan? Also what are the series 1 (1993-1995) worth?

Thanks ;-)

Edited by Noel
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/120267-r33-gts-t-sedan-vs-coupe/
Share on other sites
eMsta Grand Master

eMsta

Posted
Posted
Hi

I am looking into buying an R33 GTS-T in about a month or so & am keen on a manual 4door sedan (for practicality & also something different) but was just wondering is there actually any difference between the sedan & coupe with regards to engine, suspension brakes etc or is it exactly the same?

Also what is a reasonable price for a good condition, low kms 1996 (series 2) R33 GTS-T Manual 4door sedan? Also what are the series 1 (1993-1995) worth?

Thanks ;-)

U'd be suprised, the coupe is pretty spacious - I carried 3 other guys in my car all taller than me (6ft 4, 5ft 11, 5ft 9 and Im 5ft 7) - and they didnt feel cramped or anything. As far as i know, the 2 door is a bit quicker (but i could be wrong - someone will have to verify this). Either way man, ur getting a great car - but in my opinion go for the coupe, despite the fact that you can get sedans for a bit cheaper.

Quinny Rising Star

Quinny

Posted
Posted

I reckon the coupe is the way to go (yes, I am biased), generally coupes are lighter, stiffer (chassis stiffness) and more aerodynamic than 4 dr variants, I am pretty sure that is the case with the Skylines too (which is why the coupes are generally quicker). The coupe is still fairly roomy, though if you are planning on carrying rear passengers often, the 4 dr might be the way to go. IMO the coupe looks better too.

Yo-Yo Grand Master

Yo-Yo

Posted
Posted
Hi

I am looking into buying an R33 GTS-T in about a month or so & am keen on a manual 4door sedan (for practicality & also something different) but was just wondering is there actually any difference between the sedan & coupe with regards to engine, suspension brakes etc or is it exactly the same?

Also what is a reasonable price for a good condition, low kms 1996 (series 2) R33 GTS-T Manual 4door sedan? Also what are the series 1 (1993-1995) worth?

Thanks ;-)

I'm not really a fan of the r33 sedan, although lately the r34 sedan has grown on me. I might buy one early next year as their prices are hovering around what you'd pay for a s2 r33 coupe, at least the r34 sedans I've seen are.

_8OO5TED_ Mentor

_8OO5TED_

Posted
Posted

i own a 4dr r33 gtst sedan (5spd turbo)

there is approx 40kg difference, the sedan being heavier.

engine, suspension, brakes etc is all the same as the 2dr variant.

the sedan seats are slightly less sporty, i have upgraded mine with a pair of recaros :D

as for them being slower, im yet to see any proof of this. in stock form, perhaps so with the 40kg difference, but modified examples would be very similiar.

i have fitted HKS Hiper D coilovers to my car and it rides beautifully.

i paid $11500 on the road for my 1993 model approx 10mths ago. it was an immaculate grade 4 with 76,000kms.

R33TOM Community Regular

R33TOM

Posted
Posted

the look of an R33 sedan and coupe is too different, the sedan looks more like a latemodel camry and really conservative in the looks department.

They even changed the tail lights! thats what make a skyline look good

the r32 and r34 sedans pretty much look like their coupe counterparts except with 4 doors,

i would go for a 4 door R32 or R34, stay away from the R33 sedans, and plus the manual R33 GTST sedans are extremely rare, the ones ive seen are all auto.

Noel Community Regular

Noel

Posted
  • Author
Posted
i own a 4dr r33 gtst sedan (5spd turbo)

there is approx 40kg difference, the sedan being heavier.

engine, suspension, brakes etc is all the same as the 2dr variant.

the sedan seats are slightly less sporty, i have upgraded mine with a pair of recaros :D

as for them being slower, im yet to see any proof of this. in stock form, perhaps so with the 40kg difference, but modified examples would be very similiar.

i have fitted HKS Hiper D coilovers to my car and it rides beautifully.

i paid $11500 on the road for my 1993 model approx 10mths ago. it was an immaculate grade 4 with 76,000kms.

Thanks Mate...gees sounds like you got a good deal...all the ones i have seen are alot more than that...there is a dealer here in syd selling a 96 series II for 18,990 with 69,000kms, 1yr rego. 1 yr warranty, is standard with a factory body kit & 17" wheels

_8OO5TED_ Mentor

_8OO5TED_

Posted
Posted

i imported mine through a broker, the car was purchased direct from the Jap auctions. I didnt pay an commission fees that you would pay from the dealers here in Oz, BUT of course i bought the car purely off the few pics I received of it. Its all good but, saved me $3K+ off the purchase price :D

If you can wait a couple of months to buy direct from Japan, it would be a good idea, no doubt you could get a stocka series1 manual turbo for very cheap these days.....

12DFY Collaborator

12DFY

Posted
Posted

G'day mate, I have two 33 sedans first was once a GTS which i purchased five years ago at 13000' 1995 model S1, The other is GTST R33 sedan purchased for $14000 three years ago. So price wise they are definately cheaper.

The engine, gearbox, diff, brakes, hicas etc are EXACTLY the same, basically it is the coupe with four doors. As far as the aesthetic appeal goes everyone has their own opinion on the 33 sedan. I personally like the looks, many people I have come across like the looks instead of a coupe. So as far as it goes its what you prefer. I have a family etc so the sedan suits me perfectly (and have never ever been annoyed by the police). Despite the 33GTS now having 220KW@the wheels. If you probably want a bit more of a sleeper and fly under the radar a little the sedan is good. If you want the bling go for the coupe.

spio Collaborator

spio

Posted
Posted
Thanks Mate...gees sounds like you got a good deal...all the ones i have seen are alot more than that...there is a dealer here in syd selling a 96 series II for 18,990 with 69,000kms, 1yr rego. 1 yr warranty, is standard with a factory body kit & 17" wheels

Is that the one for sale at Balgowlah? I had a brief enquiry into that car when I was in the hunt for R33 sedans. They seem to very negotiable on the price, as the salesperson informed me that wanted to clear out a few cars.

I've driven both stock R33 sedan and coupes and can say that the coupe feels a touch more responsive. However with a few mods, the difference between the two if virtually unnoticeable. Yeah as stated above its hard finding a 5 speed one. It took me a few months to find a decent one. IMHO the sedan looks much better with the factory kit :thumbsup:

Overall, the sedan is a great car and I would recommend it if you're after something different or something with practicality of 4 doors!

Modena Grand Master

Modena

Posted
Posted
4 Door = yes thats my girlfriend in the passenger seat

2 Door = yes thats my boyfriend in the passenger seat

4 door = i bought a car for my mum, dad, brother, sister, cuzin habib, cuzin joe, cuzin mahmoot, auntie voola, auntie toola and vic market satdy shopping :laugh:

2 door = its just me and my girl...and the open road :ermm:

_8OO5TED_ Mentor

_8OO5TED_

Posted
Posted

i feel no need to further respond as it is clear this isnt going any where and you continue to shoot yourself in the foot by exploiting the sheer diversity of uses for the 4dr and its ability the carry more people, more comfortably :laugh:

I think the bottom line here is, it comes down to the styling, apart from that there isnt any difference between a 2dr and a 4dr. If you dont like the look of the 2dr, then get a 4dr and vice versa....

Modena Grand Master

Modena

Posted
Posted
i feel no need to further respond as it is clear this isnt going any where and you continue to shoot yourself in the foot by exploiting the sheer diversity of uses for the 4dr and its ability the carry more people, more comfortably :laugh:

I think the bottom line here is, it comes down to the styling, apart from that there isnt any difference between a 2dr and a 4dr. If you dont like the look of the 2dr, then get a 4dr and vice versa....

haha i like how u try and reframe it as to ur own advantage :ermm:

but yeh i fell in love with 2 door as i been driving 4 doors all my life prior and the car was a family one.

now that i live alone and really only need it for a gf and myself... no need for 4 doors.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • hoodedreeper
      Chris' Toyota Mark ii JZX110

      By hoodedreeper · Posted

      Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
    • hoodedreeper
      Chris' Toyota Mark ii JZX110

      By hoodedreeper · Posted

      It was picked up on the MOT/Inspection that the offside front wheel bearing had excessive play along with the ball joint. It made sense to do both sides so I sourced a pair of spare IS200 hubs to do the swap. Unfortunately I don't have any photos of the strip down but here's a quick run down. On the back of the hub is a large circular dust cover, using a flat head screw driver and a mallet I prised it off. Underneath will reveal a 32mm hub nut (impact gun recommended). With the hub nut removed the ABS ring can be removed (I ended up using a magnetic pick up tool to help). Next up is to remove the stub axle, this was a little trickier due to limited tools. I tried a 3 leg puller but the gap between the hub and stub axle wasn't enough for the legs to get in and under. Next option was a lump hammer and someone pulling the stub axle at the same time. After a few heavy hits it released. The lower bearing race had seized itself onto the stub axle, which was fine because I was replacing them anyway. With the upper bearing race removed and the grease cleaned off they looked like this The left one looked pristine inside but gave us the most trouble. The right one had some surface rust but came apart in a single hit, figure that out?! I got a local garage to press the new wheel bearings in, reassemble was the opposite and didn't take long at all. Removing the hub itself was simple. Starting with removing the brake caliper, 2x 14mm bolts for the caliper slider and 2x 19mm? for the carrier > hub bolts. I used a cable tie to secure the caliper to the upper arm so it was out of the way, there's a 10mm bolt securing the ABS sensor on. With the brake disc removed from the hub next are the three castle nuts for the upper and lower ball joints and track rod end. Two of these had their own R clip and one split pin. A few hits with the hammer and they're released (I left the castle nuts on by a couple of turns), the track rod ends gave me the most grief and I may have nipped the boots (oops). Fitting is the reversal and is very quick and easy to do. The lower ball joints are held onto the hub by 2x 17mm bolts. The castle nut did increase in socket size to 22mm from memory (this may vary from supplier) The two front tyres weren't in great condition, so I had those replaced with some budget tyres for the time being. I'll be replacing the wheels and tyres in the future, this was to get me on the road without the worry of the police hassling me.
    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      Yep, the closest base tune available was for the GTT, I went with that and made all the logical changes I could find to convert it to Naturally Aspirated. It will rev fine in Neutral to redline but it will be cutting nearly 50% fuel the whole way.  If I let it tune the fuel map to start with that much less fuel it wont run right and has a hard time applying corrections.  These 50% cuts are with a fuel map already about half of what the GTT tune had.  I was having a whole lot of bogging when applying any throttle but seem to have fixed that for no load situations with very aggressive transient throttle settings. I made the corrections to my injectors with data I found for them online, FBCJC100 flowing 306cc.  I'll have to look to see if I can find the Cam section. I have the Bosch 4.9 from Haltech. My manifold pressure when watching it live is always in -5.9 psi/inHg
    • brillo
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By brillo · Posted

      Hi My Tokico BM50 Brake master cylinder has a leak from the hole between the two outlets (M10x1) for brake pipes, I have attached a photo. Can anyone tell me what that hole is and what has failed to allow brake fluid to escape from it, I have looked on line and asked questions on UK forums but can not find the answer, if anyone can enlighten me I would be most grateful.
    • MBS206
      Cas issue

      By MBS206 · Posted

      It will be a software setting. I don't believe many on here ever used AEM. And they're now a discontinued product,that's really hard to find any easy answers on. If it were Link or Haltech, someone would be able to just send you a ECU file though.
×
×
  • Create New...