Jump to content
SAU Community

Gb: Metal Cat 3 Icnh


Recommended Posts

Hi Guys

Hey Guys

Shippment has landed... i have plenty of stock avialable

Some info below on these cats:)

<div class='bbimg'>MetalcatBoltonforNissanlowerres_001.jpg</div>

<div class='bbimg'>Metal-Cat-Ad-for-Web.gif</div>

<div class='bbimg'>METAL_CAT_CUTAWAY.jpg</div>

<div class='bbimg'>MetalCattoleadingCatComparison.jpg</div>

Is your 3” brand name exhaust really a 1.5” exhaust?”

What does this all mean?

Most cats advertised as high flow are NOT high flow. Based on a 3” system that flows 589cfm, the reduction from 589cfm through the Metal CatTM is approximately a 10% loss down to 534cfm. When looking at the reduction in flow in Australias leading cat, the drop to 312cfm is close to a 50% reduction in flow. This is a massive suppresion and power loss, especially in forced induction vehicles. Have you been lied to? Is the cat in your exhaust system the weakest link? You need to understand

this, there is only one Hi-Flow Metal CatTM on the market . Choose your hi-flow cat wisely , choose Metal CatTM.

* 100% Stainless inside and out

* Uses a unique 200 cell p/inch high performance full metal catalyst

* Compact size for small and mid size cars and trucks

* Fully polished

* EPA and CARB Compliant [stamped]

* Heat Shield comes standard

* Stamped with CAxx

* Available in 2.5” , 3” and 3.5”

* Metal Cat ships as a complete unit

* Outflows competition

* Ideal for forced induction vehicles.

Price will be

$290

Troy

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks, I checked from the back of the cluster and no reading there. I undid the connector and plugged in the wires directly to start from where I'm getting a reading: https://imgur.com/a/W8JI6Yr Weirdly enough when I tried to get a reading from the crimps that connect to the fuel pump assembly, I got nothing. Not sure what's my next step as I have admittedly limited knowledge with electricity. 
    • Agreed with the rest. Also at least based on my own research, there are no readily available stock or close-to-stock RB20Neo maps that you could download and use as a base were you to buy a complete standalone ECU, and the regular 20DET maps don't really work well so you'd need to take it to a tuner if you have no experience. I installed an AEM V2 on my 20Neo+T and had lots of headaches until I got it to run and idle properly but I've yet to remap it fully. You have to start building up your timing and fuel maps entirely from the ground up; even the ones for a 25 didn't work at all.
    • Got some decent progress after work yesterday and also today. Got the ECU all wired and passenger side interior all back together. Kept the wiring up nice and high to avoid people standing on it. Got the surge tank relays rewired and tidied up the pump wiring and cut a hole to bring the cables through.  I found a spare USB cable I had lying around so I decided to cut it up and see if I could use it for my CAN 1 bus. Turned out one of the pins I needed was to the shield of the cable so i cut it up and desoldered it and resoldered to the correct pins.  Had the issue with the powersteering hose hitting the A/C compressor and fan shroud. I pulled the bracket off and modified it to remove the front mounting point which now clears it all. Will keep an eye on it to see if theres any signs of fouling once it's up and running.
    • That's some good input mate. Nice.
×
×
  • Create New...