Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have some on my work computer but am not in till tomorrow afternoon.

Until then its: http://www.horsepowerinabox.com/HPIAB2/prod18.htm

Any questions welcome. Looking for quick sale at this price, can post asap.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/120300-sold/#findComment-2216317
Share on other sites

Comes with actuator, but no water or oil lines.

Have someone checking it out tomorrow, so if your interested let me know. Its at G&D performance in Cranbourne if you want to check it out.

As I understand its built for a standard RB25 manifold. Read the horsepowerinabox link for exact details. It fits the T3 flange.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/120300-sold/#findComment-2216385
Share on other sites

what power were you making @ what boost? And when did yu see full boost?

cheers

Well i had it on a commodore (please dont hurt me :D ) so i saw full boost just off idle! Being a 3.8l engine it was just a little too small of a housing. This turbo is designed for you guys so I wouldnt be worrying about power figures. It will give you more than you can handle. Basically, on 14-17psi it should make around 280rwkw on your engines.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/120300-sold/#findComment-2216402
Share on other sites

Well i had it on a commodore (please dont hurt me :D ) so i saw full boost just off idle! Being a 3.8l engine it was just a little too small of a housing. This turbo is designed for you guys so I wouldnt be worrying about power figures. It will give you more than you can handle. Basically, on 14-17psi it should make around 280rwkw on your engines.
"Should" and "Does" are two totally different things, unless you are offering a money back guarantee. On a std engine, you would need more than 17psi to make 280rwkw.

Don't mean to discredit your sale, as it has been proven to be a good turbo, just don't like reading figures that have been pulled out of the air.

Good luck

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/120300-sold/#findComment-2216722
Share on other sites

Yeah of course dude. People are asking me for dyno sheets. I am saying that a dyno sheet on a 3.8L engine is pretty much meaningless.

I got that power figure from this site. All I am saying is it is this turbo and some indication of the potential. It is made for a 2.5L skyline not a commodore.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/120300-sold/#findComment-2216846
Share on other sites

i had one on my rb25 it pulled 277 rwkws on 98 ron fuel at 21psi. 283rwkws on 100 ron. great turbo! starts to spool at 2500rpm on a stock rb25 and full boost by 3500rpm. comes on really hard !!! if you guys want to see dyno sheet pm with your email address and i will send you one. cheers carl.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/120300-sold/#findComment-2217981
Share on other sites

The turbo has only been running for a month or so in an very restricted setup so as to pass an emissions test. Then it was back to build.

Car has been off the road for the rest of the time since purchasing last year.

Edited by Harey
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/120300-sold/#findComment-2218502
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Not sure the US can import anything other than the C34 Stagea's, but if you can and you need to to tow, DO NOT under any circumstances get an M35 Stagea. If it is just as a family car and your country/state allows it, absolutely and definitely get an M35 (3.5L if possible as it is effectively a 350Z) over a C34.
    • Punch your VIN (nm35-xxxxxx) into Amayama.com You can see everything there quite easily.
    • Thanks for that, I'll check it all out. I can always do the brakes last anyway if its a problem.  The 16's are super cool, if they do fit I'll cruise around with them for a bit.  
    • Well, that's kinda the point. The calipers might interfere with the inside of the barrels 16" rims are only about 14" inside the barrels, which is ~350mm, and 334mm rotors only leave about 8mm outboard for the caliper before you get to 350, And.... that;s not gunna be enough. If the rims have a larger ID than that, you might sneak it in. I'd be putting a measuring stick inside the wheel and eyeballing the extra required for the caliper outboard of the rotor before committing to bolting it all on.
    • OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
×
×
  • Create New...