Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

In my r30 skyline. i was driving along the other night and randomly the following lights came on and occacionaly flick off for a second but then come back on.

If the car is under 1000rpm they dont come on, they once I rev it they come on and stay on. Sometimes go off for a sec when i stop or turn.

The lights are:

Door open Light, Coolant Overflow bottle light, Fog lights light, Window washer light, fuel light, and the spare tire light which is not on the dash but next to the interior lights on the roof.

PLEASE HELP!

From George

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/121925-dash-lights-on-help/
Share on other sites

hey george

had this problem before i think, all the lights come on right? my car had the door open, coolant overflow, overheated, window washer etc etc.

took it to an auto electrician, turned out to be buggered alternator or something. $200-odd dollars i think it was (i'm located in perth though).

Its kinda tough how much it SHOULD cost, cos i have nothing to compare it against (if anyone's had it cheaper, forum whore's had the same problem and fixed it for half the price, etc etc).

Good luck with the fix :)

hey george

had this problem before i think, all the lights come on right? my car had the door open, coolant overflow, overheated, window washer etc etc.

took it to an auto electrician, turned out to be buggered alternator or something. $200-odd dollars i think it was (i'm located in perth though).

Its kinda tough how much it SHOULD cost, cos i have nothing to compare it against (if anyone's had it cheaper, forum whore's had the same problem and fixed it for half the price, etc etc).

Good luck with the fix :)

Repco has alternators for under $200. So i'll go get one from there.

yep sounds like a charging problem. could be as simple as the fan belt loose/slipping, or wire fallen off the back of the alternator. Or it could be the alternator itself, but it pays to chack the basics first. Normally in the Bosch type alternators, its just worn brushes. These are replaceable without removing the alternator, and will cost alot less than a reco/exchange alt. If it turns out you need a replacement alt, I'd get one from a auto sparky. They're normally cheaper than repco in my experience.

can anyone tell me what the 2 warning lights on the R30 dash that look like headlights mean? There are 2 of them, one faces left, and right next to it the other faces right. I intermittently get the one on the right lighting up when the headlights are on. What the hell are they?

Edited by hrd-hr30

In the top l/h corner. Twoheadlights. The one on the left is blue for hi beam, the other comes on when you brake then goes out. If it on all the time you have a blown globe some where.

In the top l/h corner. Twoheadlights. The one on the left is blue for hi beam, the other comes on when you brake then goes out. If it on all the time you have a blown globe some where.

doesnt come on or go out when i break. it does nothing until now

In the top l/h corner. Twoheadlights. The one on the left is blue for hi beam, the other comes on when you brake then goes out. If it on all the time you have a blown globe some where.

thanks. all the lights were working. It's only on intermittently when the lights are on, half the time its not lit up at all, and it flickers at times too. Maybe I should check for a loose wiring at one of the lights...

I think all the lights on is an altenator problem. Been there done that.

The two head lights on the dash are, as I said, blue for hi beam. The other on the right of the blue comes on to signify that you are braking and the brake lights are working. No braking, no light. If the light is on all the time even if the headlights are not in use it means you have a blown globe in the stop light system. In 23 years of owning my RMR30, the only globes i've had to replace are three l/h stop light globes.

Hope this helps.

I think all the lights on is an altenator problem. Been there done that.

The two head lights on the dash are, as I said, blue for hi beam. The other on the right of the blue comes on to signify that you are braking and the brake lights are working. No braking, no light. If the light is on all the time even if the headlights are not in use it means you have a blown globe in the stop light system. In 23 years of owning my RMR30, the only globes i've had to replace are three l/h stop light globes.

Hope this helps.

sorry about confusing the issue. I agre if all the lights are on, its a charging problem. That was happening when my fanbelt was slipping when i first got the car.

aha - I did have a stop light out! all fixed now! why does it look like a headlight if its a stop light??? now if it looked like a stovetop hotplate I would've got it... :thumbsup:

  • 3 weeks later...
yep sounds like the alternators not doing its job as well as it should. if its not that, try whacking the dashboard. could be a loose connection.

i changed the alternator and its still happening......

Is it like you first mentioned? If so I suggest you get a propper diagnostic checkup.

The only time I had a heap of lights on the dash was when the altenator shit itself. I got it fixed and bugger me it did it again. Turned out the "new" altenator was faulty.

Is it like you first mentioned? If so I suggest you get a propper diagnostic checkup.

The only time I had a heap of lights on the dash was when the altenator shit itself. I got it fixed and bugger me it did it again. Turned out the "new" altenator was faulty.

How should I go with diagnosing a fault like this?

How should I go with diagnosing a fault like this?

If the problem is still ther you will have to get a GOOD auto electrician with all the diagnostic gear. Try the Yellow Pages

Pitstop Books in Perth have manuals for R30 if you need one. About $100 but a must have. I got one last year and it has saved me heaps.

If the problem is still ther you will have to get a GOOD auto electrician with all the diagnostic gear. Try the Yellow Pages

Pitstop Books in Perth have manuals for R30 if you need one. About $100 but a must have. I got one last year and it has saved me heaps.

Does it have anything on the FJ20 in it

Does it have anything on the FJ20 in it

no ti doesnt. and i got a r30 manual for $3 last year. But how is taht going to help me fix this? there is no fault in here to do with whats happening to my vehicle.

no ti doesnt. and i got a r30 manual for $3 last year. But how is taht going to help me fix this? there is no fault in here to do with whats happening to my vehicle.

SERIOUSLY! I'm sure someone here can help. half of you seem to be extremely knowledgable. PLEASE HELP!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • perhaps i should have mentioned, I plugged the unit in before i handed over to the electronics repair shop to see what damaged had been caused and the unit worked (ac controls, rear demister etc) bar the lights behind the lcd. i would assume that the diode was only to control lighting and didnt harm anything else i got the unit back from the electronics repair shop and all is well (to a point). The lights are back on and ac controls are working. im still paranoid as i beleive the repairer just put in any zener diode he could find and admitted asking chatgpt if its compatible   i do however have another issue... sometimes when i turn the ignition on, the climate control unit now goes through a diagnostics procedure which normally occurs when you disconnect and reconnect but this may be due to the below   to top everything off, and feel free to shoot me as im just about to do it myself anyway, while i was checking the newly repaired board by plugging in the climate control unit bare without the housing, i believe i may have shorted it on the headunit surround. Climate control unit still works but now the keyless entry doesnt work along with the dome light not turning on when you open the door. to add to this tricky situation, when you start the car and remove the key ( i have a turbo timer so car remains on) the keyless entry works. the dome light also works when you switch to the on position. fuses were checked and all ok ive deduced that the short somehow has messed with the smart entry control module as that is what controls the keyless entry and dome light on door opening   you guys wouldnt happen to have any experience with that topic lmao... im only laughing as its all i can do right now my self diagnosed adhd always gets me in a situation as i have no patience and want to get everything done in shortest amount of time as possible often ignoring crucial steps such as disconnecting battery when stuffing around with electronics or even placing a simple rag over the metallic headunit surround when placing a live pcb board on top of it   FML
    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
×
×
  • Create New...