Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

In my r30 skyline. i was driving along the other night and randomly the following lights came on and occacionaly flick off for a second but then come back on.

If the car is under 1000rpm they dont come on, they once I rev it they come on and stay on. Sometimes go off for a sec when i stop or turn.

The lights are:

Door open Light, Coolant Overflow bottle light, Fog lights light, Window washer light, fuel light, and the spare tire light which is not on the dash but next to the interior lights on the roof.

PLEASE HELP!

From George

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/121925-dash-lights-on-help/
Share on other sites

hey george

had this problem before i think, all the lights come on right? my car had the door open, coolant overflow, overheated, window washer etc etc.

took it to an auto electrician, turned out to be buggered alternator or something. $200-odd dollars i think it was (i'm located in perth though).

Its kinda tough how much it SHOULD cost, cos i have nothing to compare it against (if anyone's had it cheaper, forum whore's had the same problem and fixed it for half the price, etc etc).

Good luck with the fix :)

hey george

had this problem before i think, all the lights come on right? my car had the door open, coolant overflow, overheated, window washer etc etc.

took it to an auto electrician, turned out to be buggered alternator or something. $200-odd dollars i think it was (i'm located in perth though).

Its kinda tough how much it SHOULD cost, cos i have nothing to compare it against (if anyone's had it cheaper, forum whore's had the same problem and fixed it for half the price, etc etc).

Good luck with the fix :)

Repco has alternators for under $200. So i'll go get one from there.

yep sounds like a charging problem. could be as simple as the fan belt loose/slipping, or wire fallen off the back of the alternator. Or it could be the alternator itself, but it pays to chack the basics first. Normally in the Bosch type alternators, its just worn brushes. These are replaceable without removing the alternator, and will cost alot less than a reco/exchange alt. If it turns out you need a replacement alt, I'd get one from a auto sparky. They're normally cheaper than repco in my experience.

can anyone tell me what the 2 warning lights on the R30 dash that look like headlights mean? There are 2 of them, one faces left, and right next to it the other faces right. I intermittently get the one on the right lighting up when the headlights are on. What the hell are they?

Edited by hrd-hr30

In the top l/h corner. Twoheadlights. The one on the left is blue for hi beam, the other comes on when you brake then goes out. If it on all the time you have a blown globe some where.

In the top l/h corner. Twoheadlights. The one on the left is blue for hi beam, the other comes on when you brake then goes out. If it on all the time you have a blown globe some where.

doesnt come on or go out when i break. it does nothing until now

In the top l/h corner. Twoheadlights. The one on the left is blue for hi beam, the other comes on when you brake then goes out. If it on all the time you have a blown globe some where.

thanks. all the lights were working. It's only on intermittently when the lights are on, half the time its not lit up at all, and it flickers at times too. Maybe I should check for a loose wiring at one of the lights...

I think all the lights on is an altenator problem. Been there done that.

The two head lights on the dash are, as I said, blue for hi beam. The other on the right of the blue comes on to signify that you are braking and the brake lights are working. No braking, no light. If the light is on all the time even if the headlights are not in use it means you have a blown globe in the stop light system. In 23 years of owning my RMR30, the only globes i've had to replace are three l/h stop light globes.

Hope this helps.

I think all the lights on is an altenator problem. Been there done that.

The two head lights on the dash are, as I said, blue for hi beam. The other on the right of the blue comes on to signify that you are braking and the brake lights are working. No braking, no light. If the light is on all the time even if the headlights are not in use it means you have a blown globe in the stop light system. In 23 years of owning my RMR30, the only globes i've had to replace are three l/h stop light globes.

Hope this helps.

sorry about confusing the issue. I agre if all the lights are on, its a charging problem. That was happening when my fanbelt was slipping when i first got the car.

aha - I did have a stop light out! all fixed now! why does it look like a headlight if its a stop light??? now if it looked like a stovetop hotplate I would've got it... :thumbsup:

  • 3 weeks later...
yep sounds like the alternators not doing its job as well as it should. if its not that, try whacking the dashboard. could be a loose connection.

i changed the alternator and its still happening......

Is it like you first mentioned? If so I suggest you get a propper diagnostic checkup.

The only time I had a heap of lights on the dash was when the altenator shit itself. I got it fixed and bugger me it did it again. Turned out the "new" altenator was faulty.

Is it like you first mentioned? If so I suggest you get a propper diagnostic checkup.

The only time I had a heap of lights on the dash was when the altenator shit itself. I got it fixed and bugger me it did it again. Turned out the "new" altenator was faulty.

How should I go with diagnosing a fault like this?

How should I go with diagnosing a fault like this?

If the problem is still ther you will have to get a GOOD auto electrician with all the diagnostic gear. Try the Yellow Pages

Pitstop Books in Perth have manuals for R30 if you need one. About $100 but a must have. I got one last year and it has saved me heaps.

If the problem is still ther you will have to get a GOOD auto electrician with all the diagnostic gear. Try the Yellow Pages

Pitstop Books in Perth have manuals for R30 if you need one. About $100 but a must have. I got one last year and it has saved me heaps.

Does it have anything on the FJ20 in it

Does it have anything on the FJ20 in it

no ti doesnt. and i got a r30 manual for $3 last year. But how is taht going to help me fix this? there is no fault in here to do with whats happening to my vehicle.

no ti doesnt. and i got a r30 manual for $3 last year. But how is taht going to help me fix this? there is no fault in here to do with whats happening to my vehicle.

SERIOUSLY! I'm sure someone here can help. half of you seem to be extremely knowledgable. PLEASE HELP!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That still isn't a lot to go on. I don't have a Y50 Fuga Head Unit wiring diagram. I can say that a lot of nissans of that age shared head unit plugs, so if you are in Australia something like this would probably help: https://aerpro.com/app091# You plug that into the car loom, then either plug the head unit ISO into that (if it has ISO), or you buy and ISO adapter harness that you wire in. Bit of stuffing around, but once you have ISO its easy to change things in future.
    • It is a kunfine Android screen . Does anyone know the wirering diagram of the fuga ??
    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
×
×
  • Create New...