Jump to content
SAU Community

After Installing Bosch 040 Fuel Pump...

CATKICKER

By CATKICKER,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

CATKICKER Mentor

CATKICKER

Posted
Posted

After installing a bosch 040 in my R32, when I go to start it I have to turn it on, wait for the lines to prime and then tap the acelerator pedal when turning it over.

If I just go straight for the start, it either takes a while (turns over and over and over) and then runs at a low idle until it gets more fuel and picks back up...

The car runs fine and has been tuned by Dr Drift since the install and had no issues...

I have just been letting it prime and giving it a pump and putting up with it but thought I would ask to see if anyone else has this issue...

NOTE* It has only done it since the bosch install a few months ago

Cheers!

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted

Mine used to be a pain in the arse to start in the mornings on the stock ecu. The same as you describe. I do have a bosch pump and I can't remember if it did it when the pump wasn't installed.

Powerfc sorted that issue out for me.

On the stock ecu I also had a little idle hunt.

I can replicate the bad starts with the powerfc by pulling out some of the cranking ms at cold start temperatures.

CEF11E Veteran

CEF11E

Posted
Posted

I have a simular issue.

I installed a 040 intank and the stock reg was shitting itself because it couldn't handle the pressure. I installed a sard regulator and set it to 39psi base pressure.

Now that is is in and all working if I crank it over from cold It takes 3 seconds to fire.

If I wait on the ON position in the ignition the pump primes then stops and then I crank it over and it starts first go.

I have it wired as diredt feed from the battery using a relay and the standard pump wire feeding the relay. ala Cubes style.

The pump is a noisy bugger tho it gerbals and makes slushing noises when at idle. but performs very well. I kinda like the sound ;)

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted

CEF11E,

Interesting...

I do remember when I had my bosch pump installed when I first bought my car (4years ago) the tuner said the bosch 044 pumps sometimes cause issues with the stock fuel pressure regs.

I had a 910 installed as back then it was 'only 200rwkw' that I was after.

Chris32 Veteran

Chris32

Posted
Posted

Some Bosch pumps also come minus the anti-drain back valve thingo, that was the case with my 040, it would take a few seconds to fire up

Got a 044 now, and it came with the anti-drain back valve thingo, can't remember the exact name, but it works much better than the 040 minus the valve

maccattack Proficient

maccattack

Posted
Posted

Just sounds like they did not install the check valve.

Quite often performance shops / mechanics leave the check valve out so as not to impede fuel flow in any way - as the check valve generally has a smaller diameter. Just means the fuel system does not hold pressure without the pump running, hence you have to re-pressurise the fuel lines before you can start the car.

If it gives you the sh1ts, have them install a check valve (one way valve) - problem fixed.

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted

My 910 used to be really bad when hot as it was external, that gurgle sound would transmit vibrations to the floor pan. Was nasty as.

I rewired the pump and its made the pump quieter and shifted the harmonics up so that it no longer vibrates anything. :P

Bl4cK32 Grand Master

Bl4cK32

Posted
Posted (edited)
Chris,

Does your 044 make those gurgling noises?

Darrens had his put in by Shaun and its pretty damn quiet, just the usual buzz.

Yer mine only ever buzzes quietly in the backround. Cant even hear it most of the time. Only time it gets annoying is on hot days (read 32deg+)...never gurgles tho....

Edited by Bl4cK32
Chris32 Veteran

Chris32

Posted
Posted

Nah, mines quiet, unless its really low on juice or stinking hot

Not sure if I am 100% correct, but I angled my fuel return pipe away from the pickup with the 040 and all gurgling noises ceased.

Its caused by the pump cavitating the fuel (pumping air into it) due to its faster return from the rail with a high volume pump

Angle it away and the noises will stop :P

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted
CEF11E,

Interesting...

I do remember when I had my bosch pump installed when I first bought my car (4years ago) the tuner said the bosch 044 pumps sometimes cause issues with the stock fuel pressure regs.

I had a 910 installed as back then it was 'only 200rwkw' that I was after.

I was running the big mother 044 or 040, whatever the external one is + surge tank with the RB25... never had a regulator blowing issue.

Will be doin the same for the RB26

I would suspect the pump maybe is getting too much voltage possibly?

Chris32 Veteran

Chris32

Posted
Posted
Awesome tip Chris.. :P

How are your cold starts now? I remember I heard it stall and stumble once? I dialed in 35ms for the +10 and 21 for the +30 and now mine is perfect.

Yeah, its all good now. I just added some fuel at one of the lower water temp correction points and took away some at the +70 point I think it was, but all sorted now

You find, with the gurgling pump, its only at idle or when you lift off, under load when its using some of that extra volume there will be no sucking noise, so by directing the return away it can't suck up any of the fuel thats come back from the rail

Glad I could help mate

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted
I was running the big mother 044 or 040, whatever the external one is + surge tank with the RB25... never had a regulator blowing issue.

Will be doin the same for the RB26

I would suspect the pump maybe is getting too much voltage possibly?

He didn't say the stock regulator would blow it was more so it wasn't able to pass enough on idle, extended idling would cause fuel pressure to creep slightly.

You find, with the gurgling pump, its only at idle or when you lift off, under load when its using some of that extra volume there will be no sucking noise, so by directing the return away it can't suck up any of the fuel thats come back from the rail

It was mainly on idle which used to run the lower voltage but eventually it would begin getting noisy even when cruising, now as its direct feed its always on high so much better.

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

"couldnt handle the pressure"

i class that as blowing one :P heheh

Cant say i had a problem, i let the car idle for 5-10mins at a time regularly before i drove anywhere.

Interested in the voltage stuff too :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • CF.Panda
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By CF.Panda · Posted

      I wasn’t able to replicate the sound anymore. It was a one time sound so maybe it was just coincidence but it was like small pebbles being dropped in a coke can.   should I try cleaning the MAF? It could be it’s functioning but dirty? I don’t know.
    • sunsetR33
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Update 4: Hi all. The car drives again! Haven't driven for long, only to store it in the garage again, but the test drive was successful. The coolant and oil leaks seem to be fixed for now. Temps on the engine were also very good, while moving I never even saw 80C water during the approx. 30 minute drive. Ate up all the coolant in the reservoir though so will have to fill that even more when I go to the car next time. One thing that pisses me off is that the RPM gauge is still f**ked, I even resoldered the board twice and used copper paste on the silly screws that are used as connections. Next time I take it out I'll take apart the board and fit new components, I'll see if I can get a replacement IC for it.  I have an appointment set for 22nd of September for the engine tune to 370hp. Alignment also still needs to be done. My hope is that I can get all the legal stuff over with by the end of this season. Anyone of you have advice regarding intercoolers? Currently there is an APEXI core fitted, one of those weird hybrid ones, 600x270x76. I don't think it's bad but it's not new and now I still have the chance to change it now to legally include it in the paperwork. Only issue is that the only options that would arrive in time are a HKS Type R intercooler or generic Ebay spec intercoolers comparable to a JustJap one. Ideally I'd order a Plazmaman but it takes over a month to receive which would mean making the car legal has to wait until next season. Would love to hear some input on this. Same story for my injectors, the previous owner was a nunce and put ID 1050x on the engine. They work but are obviously not ideal at "normal" power levels. But I don't see a reason to change them unless the tuner says it's necessary. I read online before buying a different exhaust that the top secret style rear diffusers won't fit due to the size of the rear resonators. My buddy and I made it work by slightly "adjusting the shape" of the mounting bracket and making some spacers out of 3d print for the mounting bolts. Fits like a charm. Just putting this here in case someone has this problem. Even the hefty HKS Silent Hi Power rear can fits without hitting anything.
    • Butters
      UniClutch

      By Butters · Posted

      Well they got my money but they are not getting my gearbox ! 
    • GTSBoy
      ECU sees many times the speed than speedo does (R34 swap)

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      It's needed for rolling idle up, and I think it is a decider on VCT also.
    • Kinkstaah
      ECU sees many times the speed than speedo does (R34 swap)

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I mean, not really. Link ECU's can absolutely still have errors from the ECU thinking it's getting a sensor it's not expecting. I would imagine the speed at the ECU level in Nistune does absolutely nothing anyway? I assume the ECU does not do any fancy TC stuff with regards to front+rear wheel speed or anything of that like anyway. Someone who uses Nistune may be more fluent in it. 
×
×
  • Create New...