Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

cars been running great recently , altho started playing up this morning, in traffic my idle was on the piss, almost as if the AAC valve was disconnected all the gether, idle hunting up and down, on the way home from work, i start my car, takes a while to start. and it was blowing flames the entire way home, even at grandma speeds, i can only assume my fuel reg has died?

before people ask, engine is RB20det

Fuel filter is new,

Injectors are clean,

new fuel pump, healthy fuel lines, car is extremly well maintained and i cant find any faults, Diagnostics shows no codes either

any help would be much appreciated

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/122518-insane-fuel-consumption/
Share on other sites

Hunting can normally be attributed to a faulty O2 sensor. The easiest test is when the car starts to hunt disconnect the O2 sensor and see if the idle stabilises. Poor fuel economy would also suggest a possible O2 sensor fault.

If the idle does not stabilise when the O2 sensor is disconnected check for an air leak. I would be surprised if it was not the O2 sensor based on the info you have supplied.

Let us know how you go.

Hope this helps.

Cheers

What testing did you do on the O2 sensor? My bro-in-law's car had an aftermarket O2 sensor which was replaced with another aftermarket sensor of the same model and the hunting continued. I thought we could rule out the sensor but when I disconnected the O2 sensor when it was hunting the idle stabilised. Re-connect the sensor and it started hunting again. Hunting would only occur very intermittently. Replaced O2 with a factory unit and hasn't missed a beat.

This is the first thing the skyline manuals say to check for and then spark plugs and finally air leaks.

Hope this helps.

spark plugs are in servicable condition, 02 sensor, i was looking at on consult and it was swinging back and forth so i assumed it was happy, also it looks brand new, and when i had it out of the dump it was pretty fresh,

i just took the car out for a run then, and it was great ,running fine,

one thing i can ad is that before it was playing up on the way home from work, it was requiring a few cranks to start up, it usually starts instantly which it has returned to doing,

have checked ignition timing also for the hell of it, 15-16degres at idle, so its spot on

car is running BP U98 only

been over the car with a fine tooth comb, from afm to the silicon joiners behind the front bar, checked all vacume lines, intake manifold gaskets are new, as are throttle body gaskets and bov gaskets, all exhaust gaskets are new aswell except manifold but i dont think thats relivent here

Edited by Jolinator

yeah, mine was same.. usually around 15L/100km, sometimes up to 18L.. Was tuned, everything checked, stuff replaced methodically, the works. In the end was a lost cause.

When replaced the motor everything is much more reasonable. Never found out what it was. Maybe it was just the signs of a dying engine?

Loss of compression, means not as much power being developed on every compression stroke = more fuel?

just to add to this .. my 1989 R32 GTR is running at an insane rate of about 24ltr/100km and is costing me a mint

the car is pretty much stock besides

-twin pod filters

-boost put up to 9psi

i've checked and there are no visible signs of fuel leaks, i have no idea where to start looking??

tommo you will need a different thread as you have a different car and i cant speak for your cars maintinence history/ condition. pred my car has spot on compression, all cylinders. cant remember the readings, but they were great :P

Edited by Jolinator

i have had the car for over 2 years, and the catch can is compleatly empty with zero mist, even the lines are clean. very minimal blowby, doesnt use a drop of oil inbetween services

Edited by Jolinator

AAC valve causing flamage and backfires, i dont think so :) mine is superclean, i even went to the point of knocking the welsh plug out the back of it, taking the spring out , cleaning it etc, its fine,

its almosst like at random times i just decides to run super rich,

i once used a quater tank in 8 minutes, even tho the car was running fine

anyone else vote for the fuel reg?

Edited by Jolinator

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...