Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey All,

I was doing some research for my stalling problem (getting service done tuesday to fix it) and some people suggested loose wires near the ECU under the kick panel. I checked out mine, the kick panel is the panel above the brake/accel/clutch yeah?

I found a loose wire and the place where it was supposed to go, so I connected it up and the alarm went off instantly (door was open). I then started up the engine and it went off. It all seems fine now.

Had someone disabled the trigger wire for the siren and alert or possibly come loose? its a white opaque double ended clip with two small holes, and two red wires that come from behind the firewall connect to it with metal insert clips...

Has anyone else had any simular occurances? Am I ok to keep this wire connected?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/12258-alarm-trigger-wire-was-unplugged/
Share on other sites

Some alarm systems have a system over-ride wire that runs out of the black box so if there is a malfunction all you have to do is earth it and it bypasses all the immobilisers etc. Some installers wire it up to a hidden switch, others just leave it disconnected. Personally I think they are a security risk.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
×
×
  • Create New...