Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Guest RedLineGTR

take you stock bov off and and on the bottom of it there is a hole that constantly leaks boost, ther were some discussions about blocking it up with a screw and filing it off. But other than that keep the stockie, less problems with stalling and less attention from piggies...oink oink.. :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/12265-which-bov/page/2/#findComment-225902
Share on other sites

Thanx for the feed back guyz, and all the help.. I was also wondering how could i get the cooler sound happening in my car, the sound which is something like Vooooooooodduudududu, i hear em mostly on VL's.

BTW, inark as u said for the cruises, i would love to cum but most of the cruises here are in south western suburbs. im in northern suburbs and its prettie long way to get to the cruise meetings u have. if it was in city or somewhere close to the city, it would of been great!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/12265-which-bov/page/2/#findComment-233404
Share on other sites

Originally posted by KDR33

BTW, inark as u said for the cruises, i would love to cum but most of the cruises here are in south western suburbs. im in northern suburbs and its prettie long way to get to the cruise meetings u have. if it was in city or somewhere close to the city, it would of been great!

damn right :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/12265-which-bov/page/2/#findComment-233560
Share on other sites

Guest INASNT
Originally posted by DJ_L3ThAL

i was also told you can block the stock one up with a plate in the piping, makes  ahuge diff in power i was told, im going to try it this week

huge difference in power hey?? :bahaha: dont think so.

My car runs better with my stock bov on than when i had my blitz one on.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/12265-which-bov/page/2/#findComment-233818
Share on other sites

bovs... why not get some LEDs?

blocking that hole... hmmm i dont know much about that kind of stuff but common sense tells me that if nissan put a hole to release boost pressure im sure they did it for a reason...

im running "14" psi at the moment.... it peaks to 14psi @ 4200rpm then drops almost instantly down to a steady 10.44 by 6000rpm.

now im no mechanic, nor am i performance expert... but im guessing if that pressure drop is eleviated by plugging this hole up... my stock turbo is going to give in.

can someone clear this up for me? someone that actually KNOWS not someone that is guessing or thinks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/12265-which-bov/page/2/#findComment-236370
Share on other sites

Originally posted by KDR33

Thanx for the feed back guyz, and all the help.. I was also wondering how could i get the cooler sound happening in my car, the sound which is something like Vooooooooodduudududu, i hear em mostly on VL's.  

BTW, inark as u said for the cruises, i would love to cum but most of the cruises here are in south western suburbs. im in northern suburbs and its prettie long way to get to the cruise meetings u have. if it was in city or somewhere close to the city, it would of been great!

That Vooooodudududud sound is your turbo backspinning. See when you close your throttle, your turbo is still spining creating excess compressed air in the intake manifold. Once this air cant compress anymore in the intake, it then the air moves backwards, (back through the intercooler, and out your airfilter.)while your turbo wheels are spinning backwards & forwards really quickly. thus creating that Vooooooouddududu sound :P

These noises sound f*%&n sick, and are relativley harmless on low boost (1BAR & under) but keep in mind nissan has provided the car factory with a BOV for a reason. Mainly to reduced turbo wear & provide Faster spool times between shifts/gears (because the turbo doesnt have to "re-spool" as much between shifts.

If i wear you (original person who wants to change BOV), i would purchase a more accurate "plumback" (You dont want attention from the cops, youl get enough just driving a skyline) BOV for further down the track like a G-ready. Stock BOV perform very average after the factory boost setting of 7-9 PSI as the spring tension on the factory BOV is set to open on 7-9PSI. Allthough it will still work after this setting you will find that boost will come on quicker with a aftermarket BOV (like gready) as it will not "leak" boost all the way to 15PSI. (unlike the factory, under 15PSI)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/12265-which-bov/page/2/#findComment-239700
Share on other sites

I've got an old Blitz.

Originaly had it venting to atmo (trumpet and all). Car ran fine.

Now its plumbed back. Car still running fine. No noticeable improvements, just a tiny bit quieter.

I suspect I have a VERY STIFF spring. Even at 1.4-1.5 bar the bov will open with a loud woooosh then flutter after the initial piston opening up.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/12265-which-bov/page/2/#findComment-239747
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • HELP   Hey all, Is there an accelerator cable from another Nissan that can be used on the R33 GTST RB25DET with a Greddy forward facing plenum?  Thanks in advance  Rob 
    • Or do we think it was installed to give 1 bar of boost max, all day, everyday?
    • So could it be assumed it has been installed intentionally with potentially a power FC boost controller kit? 
    • Had my rig on Matt's dyno at PITS the other day. After a few years between tunes I added a few sensors and swapped intercoolers. Result. 553hp at 26psi. Not bad for an FJ20 that was built in 2007. The problem.. It filled the overflow bottle on hard runs which leads me to believe the head gasket isn't sealing. I have a coolant pressure sensor which was reading cap pressure at 22psi and occasionally overrunning to 23/24 psi on deceleration after a pull. It was not spiking. It has arp2000 head studs and a cometic gasket. As its been 18 years in service, I pulled the engine out and head off. Everything looks good but we obviously have an issue. Where I'm at.. Years ago I had the same issue, I checked the stud tension and they were all over the place. Some at 60 to 70 and some up near 90. I nipped them all to 100ft lbs and this stopped the water push until now. I believe this compromised the gasket back then. What do I do? 2 options are..  1) I bought arp 625+s, which I could put in with a new gasket. Thinking Kameari this time, reassemble and try again. 2) strip the block, get fire rings machined in with copper gasket and try that. I do not want to push it more than 28 to 30psi. I think the turbo will be out by then anyway. (G30-770). My other concern is the long term ability of a copper head gasket. Are they streetable for years? I feel like a new gasket with the new studs will probably suffice, but I don't know. Any thoughts welcome and advice on copper gaskets and fire rings. Thanks!
    • I'm a fan of the JZX110, and the Aristo. Big cruiser cars, and with the factory cars, super comfortable and feel like you're driving an armchair! And the JZ motors are a pretty nice engine too, especially with some basic mods.   The import process, and the need to be able to trust people, and the fact there's so many scammers around is what ever puts me off wanting to go through that ordeal!
×
×
  • Create New...