Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yeah from SAPOL....got it in the mail today...

Funny bout it taking 2 months to get to me since the report was placed. I kno i wouldnt have been "hooning". More than likely i would have been driving along normally, and overtaken someone and held it in second or 3rd till 60. Some pompus bastard has gone..."aww yeah yet another hoon" and decided to say something about it.

Its not really that loud. But i completely agree with you. Whats to stop me doing it to someone i dont like? Ill give them a call sometime this week and see what i can find out about this mess.

As for the muffler... lol i have none besides the cannon atm. Only pulls just over 90DB... ive already been thinking of doing that for a while... Might just have to get round to it whilst replacing the cannon at the same time.

Cheers

noo need to get mufflers and bolt in baffle bits get a Apexi zaust quietener there are other brands too

oh joy theve updated the ECV http://www.apexi-usa.com/product_exhaust_d...d=227&pageNum=1

  • Replies 111
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

noo need to get mufflers and bolt in baffle bits get a Apexi zaust quietener there are other brands too

oh joy theve updated the ECV http://www.apexi-usa.com/product_exhaust_d...d=227&pageNum=1

The problem with those is you can't really give it a boot full and keep it quiet.

Nothing better than a nice quiet car to give it a bootfull and not attract attention.

Do you mean the muffler add to back pressure.

That really depends on its build quality and design.

A straight through muffler that holds the same pipe ID and doesn't protrude anything in to the airflow will be fine.

With the removal of a cat convertor you only just notice an improvement in spool and top rpm power so a piece of pipe with a couple of holes in it that don't protrude in to the airflow won't be noticable. :laugh:

It is important to have a good muffler on the car, up around 300rwkw odd it can make or break it.

Some of the jap mufflers tend to squeeze in running a smaller id pipe inside the muffler, this is obviously bad bad bad, but is fairly quiet. :D

honestly, i think if your car aint a ford or holden (basically anyhing that resembles family or is australian) get ready to be picked on. edit* the dude at morphetvale is an exception.

Edited by Nozila

I'm not so sure..

I really am of the view that if the car doesn't look stock.. well prepare to be harrased.

All of my previous cars were aussy cars, all lowered, loud exhausts.

The last car was a nice 3yr old VS 5ltr 5speed, Bilstein suspension, sherbrook green, nice exhaust and I was pulled over every second week.

This car... Pulled over once in 4 years.

EDIT: Make that 4.5yrs. Damn I've had this car a long time. :D

OR if your on your P's or have a history of speeding etc.

I base this on when I was younger, I used to be pulled over every so often on my P's, I was then done for something silly which was fairly serious and after that for the next couple of years I was ALWAYS pulled over just to see where I was going what I was doing and the usual car inspections.

Yeah i have both of these...I have an apexi ECV and can put in my silencer type thing...Both kill power but are effective (esp when used together). Doesnt really matter tho...because no matter what i do its going to attract attention, loud or not that loud. Its the predicament that i kno alot of Skyline owners would agree with.

when my mate first got his HSV GTO LE, he got pulled over 3 times in the first nite, cos he was on his p's. and each time the cops thought it was his dads car, but when they did a plate check they saw it was his and were like wtf, then my mate would give them shit that his car is more than their yrs wage lol..

Madaz, yeah but i dont use either of these unless im going somewhere i kno cops will be

Hence without it, it gets 96dB, with just the ECV pulled up it gets 87dB, and im not sure with both but its whisper quiet :D

but when i got the letter it would have been when i had both of those off the car or the valve not pulled closed. Which is the reason why someones got pissed off.

I just got off the phone with an officer from the Traffic Watch department.

I wanted to talk about the letter that I have received and explained the incident and how it happened. They assured that no action will be taken and that all they do is send out letters.

So I asked them about the paragraph:

Any furthur reports received involving your vehicle may result in a visit from Police and the possibility of the driver being reported for an offence against the Australian Road Rules

I explained the scenario of someone not liking you, getting their friends to report you. They assured me that it would have to be of a serious nature and multiple complaints before they could charge.

In the end they told me that not every department has access to this database. Prosecuters cannot submit this information in court, since it is 'your word against mine'.

Personally I do not see any point of these letters. Another scare tactic to intimidate drivers!

Edited by HR-32

Nice work Adam, good work on following it up! I say keep a pen and paper on hand when getting pulled over and start writing stuff down that you think the orifficer is pinning you for wrong, and ask for thier badge number and name and tell them you are gonna report them to the authorities for inlaufaul(spelling) defecting(hence half of them don't know what they are looking at!)

It worked for me once when a mate half rolled his car in a side street at night on wet roads. WE knew he was doing stupid sh!t but this stupid bitch coppa thought she was so god damn good, and i asked her for her badge number and name, and then it turned worse...........for her! she started getting pissed off more and the other cop(man) told her to go sit in the car......LOL OH and yeh i never reported her......just something to put her back in her place and something to think about for next time!

Edited by Deluxe

nice work Adam...yeah must be just a scare tactic. Another pointless waste of money by the boys in blue just to make themselves feel like they have power over us.

As for the asking for the coppas badge number when u get pulled up qand u think u are getting done for something that u kno is wrong...So how many ppl have tried it and it has worked and the officer has backed down on their defect? But then what is to stop them going after driving infringments etc if they are pissed off with you?

^^^^^ each to thier own buddy, your already gonna get a defect anyways!

Oh and by the way THEY do have the power over us........this is why they have a badge, it's just we put ourselves in a floodlight and not just the spotlight with the cars we have. I have bought myself a 79 corolla i drive to work not only to save on petrol and Kms on the clock, but to reduce the chance of getting defected and reamed in the ass by a cop. And i can tell you it works, had NO trouble in about 2 and a half years, even drove thru a defect station for the guy to only give me a warning, and the other weekend drove thru a bretho in Birdwood and had no issues!!!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
    • So, a bit of a side trip, but one that might be interesting for people with JDM cars and japanese head units. I know @Pac previously posted about a carplay/android auto adapter he installed which used the AUX input, and @V35_Paul put in one of the Tesla style units that replace both screens. The option I went with was a Lsait LLT-YF-VER5.87_2 (https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Lsailt-8GB-Android-Multimedia-Interface-for_1601187633672.html). Price was $1,150 for a single unit although they are much cheaper if you are willing to buy 2....$857ea. Make you you get the version 2 not version 1, it is faster and has a better UI - this is the manufacturer listing: http://www.lsailt.com/product/348.html. BTW if you've never bought from Alibaba before, don't be concerned....these guys can't stay in business unless they are responsive, ship fast etc, they were excellent (probably faster shipping than most local places) So, this was my task for a lazy Sat afternoon....looks complex but was all done in a few hours (it probably helps that I had some of it apart before so it was a bit familiar). I also decided to add a HD USB drive recorded at the same time and the unit also supports an aftermarket reverse cam (if you don't want to retain factory) and also AV in and HDMI out It looks much worse than it is, in fact in was genuinely all plug and play (no custom wiring at all). This video was pretty good (skipped a few steps), unfortunately they are an Aussie seller but no longer sell this unit (I guess Carplay/AA adapters are easier to install and much cheaper) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T5hJfYOB8Dg
×
×
  • Create New...