Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ali-turko,

the reason that most of them can't find it on their system is that Midnight Purple III has a special Tinter in it, KK700 which is True Blazberry Prism, this is whats called a Chromalusion Tinter.

you might have seen a car at a car show that changes color on every angle as you walk around it, this is Chromalusion Technology.

so if the Paint shop doesn't have the "Chromal" Quality activated in the Paint Formula retrieval program then the color simply won't be recognised. it is also a 3 layer process. after preperation & primer there are three final processes to achieve the color.

1) an undercoat coat is applied first (ground coat to give the final color its correct effect)

2) base coat (basically the color it's self)

3) then the clear coat

it's an awesome color my mate has it on his GTR up here.

you can ring

Prinz Australia

Unit 1/20- 30 Malcolm Rd Braeside VIC 3195

ph: (03) 9580 3419 Panel Beating Equipment & Supplies

ask for Frank Rugalo (tell him the boys from PNG reccomended him)

PS: he will have to have the "Chromal" paint quality activated in either his Colorquick or Colornet Software.

here's the formular screen dumps. (don't take any notice of the pricing, it's in a different currency)

post-29939-1150932682.jpg

post-29939-1150932710.jpg

Ali-turko,

forgot to mention.

although this color has the chromalusion technology tinter in the mix it is not a tru chromalusion color. it will not change from gold to green to purple to blue as you walk around.

that is full chromalusion & be prepared to part with A$1,000 per liter.

just thought i mention that incase you come back & say i said it would change color.

none the less Midnight Purple III is a truly remarkable color, Great Choice!!

BTW, it is DuPont Performance Coating color information i have given here, & apart from Frank at Prinz it can be obtained from any DuPont Performance Coatings outlet in Australia!!

Does anyone have a pic with the colour on the car?

i geting my car resprayed and still havnt decided on a colour... please post one up if you have a pic...

Thanks

Pic here:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...dpost&p=1838553

Fantastic info PNG Godzilla - hope you don't mind but I'm going to add that to the colour code FAQ.

Jakegts,

my digicam is stuffed, will try & get a lend of one.

then i can post a picture of a GTS-T with the full Absolute Purplene Chromalusion paint job (one you want if you got bucks burning a hole in your sky rocket) & also a pic of my mates GTR painted in Midnight Purple III

mines plain old black unfortunately!!

here's some other GTR colors that may or may not be common Knowledge.

BNR32:

KH2 Gun Grey Metallic

KG1 Jet Silver Metallic

TH1 Dark Blue Pearl

AH3 Red Pearl Metallic

732 Blak Pearl Metallic

326 Crystal White

KL0 Spark Silver Metallic

BL0 Greyish Blue Pearl

BNCR33:

AN0 Super Clear Red

BN6 Beep Marine Blue

KH3 Black

KL0 Spark Silver

KN6 Dark Grey

LP2 Midnight Purple

QM1 White

KP4 Sonic Silver

AR1 Super Clear Red 2

BT2 Champion Blue

BNR34:

TV2 Bayside Blue

QM1 White

KR4 Sonic Silver

KV2 Silver

GV1 Black Pearl

AR2 Active Red

EV1 Lightning Yellow

LV4 Midnight Purple 2

WV2 Sparkling Silver

QX1 White Pearl

LX0 Midnight Purple 3

EY0 Silica Breeze

JW0 Millenium Jade

Pic here:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...dpost&p=1838553

Fantastic info PNG Godzilla - hope you don't mind but I'm going to add that to the colour code FAQ.

raz0r$harP, no worries, happy to be of use! we are the DuPont Performance Coating Distributors for Papua New Guinea, so just hollar if u need paint info :whistling:

Damn that looks Sweet!!!

So that spray job is 1 thousand a litre?

How many litres will it take to cover a R33 GTS-T Series 1?

i have around 5 thousand to for the spray and a little more but they are for rims (Nismo LM GT3 White GTR Rims, $2500)...

Hoiw much would i be faced with if i go the way of that paint + labour?

Edited by jakegts

jakegts,

depends on what you are calling sweet. the nissan color LX0 Midnight Purple III sure is sweet & has some color change on different angles & is probably around $400 or so per liter.

full chromalusion like Absolute Purplene has a dramatic color change, from Purple to Green to Blue to Gold & is much more striking, check this site Nissan Primera GT here http://mysticcobra.net/ogallery2.shtml

but is $1,000 per liter.

also see here

post-29939-1150952407.jpg

i am guessing at the prices as i am selling in a different currency.

but absolete puplene say 3 liters would be plenty for a GTS-T is $3,000 then another 3 liters of base at probably $150 so another $450, then 3 or 4 liters of premium clear coat say another $500, so your looking at $4,000 ish for materials, without taking Labour into account. depending on weather its a full strip & repaint or a rub back & blow over i reckon youd have to bank on somewhere between A$6,000 & A$10,000

But i really am Guessing, ive lived here for 13 years & not had anything to do with the paint industry in Australia & i don't quote paint jobs here i only sell the stuff, it would pay to go & get a quote from a reputabe repairer, i listed one above in a previous post, or you could ring Dupont Performance Coating direct & ask for you nearest authorised repairer.

sure makes for a hot looking ride.

ali-turko,

i spoke with out DuPont DPR rep thismorning in Brisbane, he agreed that $6-10K is a fair figure for a Chromalusion job. Big Money, but there are other options.

you could go with a Pearlescent job

or if you go to a DPR dealer you can look through all the latest color chips, there are some really cool paint coatings comming out on new vehicles these days that arent chromalusion.

we have a metalic now called XIRALLIC which is basically like the old metalic flake & comes in different sizes but instead of giving off a plain old silver reflection of the sun it gives off multi-coloured reflections & comes in different color undertones.

you really should go & talk to someone, tell them your budget & discuss what you want to acheive.

even your plain std onld nissan black, can be overcoated with say a layer of violet/blue pearl & coarse metalic (or XIRALLIC) flake, then cleared & cleared again but with a bit of Violet tinter (tinted clear) this creates all sorts of different effects! you could use 2 or 3 or even 6 layers of clear to give depth!!

finishing off to is the Key to success spending time on final coating produces great results.

a good shop will be able to do a spray out for you on a piece of metal to show you what your getting before it rolls out of the booth.

don't dismay, you've got many options!

seriously go & talk to a professional painter, he will know what you want!

  • 10 years later...

Hi Guys,

I need some help here. Can someone provide me with the paint formula for the mnp2, LV4 ?  

I looked everywhere on the internet for it and the links above are now broken. Already bought KK760 but need the rest of the formula.

 Thanks

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
    • It was picked up on the MOT/Inspection that the offside front wheel bearing had excessive play along with the ball joint. It made sense to do both sides so I sourced a pair of spare IS200 hubs to do the swap. Unfortunately I don't have any photos of the strip down but here's a quick run down. On the back of the hub is a large circular dust cover, using a flat head screw driver and a mallet I prised it off. Underneath will reveal a 32mm hub nut (impact gun recommended). With the hub nut removed the ABS ring can be removed (I ended up using a magnetic pick up tool to help). Next up is to remove the stub axle, this was a little trickier due to limited tools. I tried a 3 leg puller but the gap between the hub and stub axle wasn't enough for the legs to get in and under. Next option was a lump hammer and someone pulling the stub axle at the same time. After a few heavy hits it released. The lower bearing race had seized itself onto the stub axle, which was fine because I was replacing them anyway. With the upper bearing race removed and the grease cleaned off they looked like this The left one looked pristine inside but gave us the most trouble. The right one had some surface rust but came apart in a single hit, figure that out?! I got a local garage to press the new wheel bearings in, reassemble was the opposite and didn't take long at all. Removing the hub itself was simple. Starting with removing the brake caliper, 2x 14mm bolts for the caliper slider and 2x 19mm? for the carrier > hub bolts. I used a cable tie to secure the caliper to the upper arm so it was out of the way, there's a 10mm bolt securing the ABS sensor on. With the brake disc removed from the hub next are the three castle nuts for the upper and lower ball joints and track rod end. Two of these had their own R clip and one split pin. A few hits with the hammer and they're released (I left the castle nuts on by a couple of turns), the track rod ends gave me the most grief and I may have nipped the boots (oops). Fitting is the reversal and is very quick and easy to do. The lower ball joints are held onto the hub by 2x 17mm bolts. The castle nut did increase in socket size to 22mm from memory (this may vary from supplier) The two front tyres weren't in great condition, so I had those replaced with some budget tyres for the time being. I'll be replacing the wheels and tyres in the future, this was to get me on the road without the worry of the police hassling me.
    • Yep, the closest base tune available was for the GTT, I went with that and made all the logical changes I could find to convert it to Naturally Aspirated. It will rev fine in Neutral to redline but it will be cutting nearly 50% fuel the whole way.  If I let it tune the fuel map to start with that much less fuel it wont run right and has a hard time applying corrections.  These 50% cuts are with a fuel map already about half of what the GTT tune had.  I was having a whole lot of bogging when applying any throttle but seem to have fixed that for no load situations with very aggressive transient throttle settings. I made the corrections to my injectors with data I found for them online, FBCJC100 flowing 306cc.  I'll have to look to see if I can find the Cam section. I have the Bosch 4.9 from Haltech. My manifold pressure when watching it live is always in -5.9 psi/inHg
    • Hi My Tokico BM50 Brake master cylinder has a leak from the hole between the two outlets (M10x1) for brake pipes, I have attached a photo. Can anyone tell me what that hole is and what has failed to allow brake fluid to escape from it, I have looked on line and asked questions on UK forums but can not find the answer, if anyone can enlighten me I would be most grateful.
    • It will be a software setting. I don't believe many on here ever used AEM. And they're now a discontinued product,that's really hard to find any easy answers on. If it were Link or Haltech, someone would be able to just send you a ECU file though.
×
×
  • Create New...