Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi guys, i'm building up my rb 25det with gtr rods and arias pistons.

I have ben checking out acl for main and big end bearings.

They have two types of each duraglide, and race series.

I plan on using a gt 3037 and using the car for track and road use.

Are duraglide good enough for my level?

Also are new guides and a strong bolt set essental?

If so where do you recomend getting them from

thanks simon.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/123297-rebuilding-rb-25det/
Share on other sites

hi guys, i'm building up my rb 25det with gtr rods and arias pistons.

I have ben checking out acl for main and big end bearings.

They have two types of each duraglide, and race series.

I plan on using a gt 3037 and using the car for track and road use.

Are duraglide good enough for my level?

Also are new guides and a strong bolt set essental?

If so where do you recomend getting them from

thanks simon.

What gt3037 are you going with ? The .63 or .82 exhaust flange? Internal or external gate? :)

Edited by 217/r33

nis-i'm going to get the block and head machined and built by nigel at raceline with standard crank rb26 rods arias pistons. Keep the head the same and change cr to 8.5 using hks or similar head gasket.

Assembling the rest myself with a mechanic mate.

217/r33-ive been told that the .63 int gated turbo will suit my needs. Thats with some cams thrown in.

Any help is appreciated, simon

The larger rear housing is only going to affect spool by around 400-500rpm.

eg. .63 comes on around 3600 and really quick delivery

.82 comes on around 4000 a more smoother delivery than the .63 and have a greatwer top end.

The 3037 isnt a large turbo really, it will go very nicely on an RB25 with the .82... or .83 or whatever it is that it comes with

Usual injectors/ECU/clutch/fuel pump etc etc.

Im sure Nige & Karl will sort you out mate. They are definately on the ball.

EDIT: If Nige is doing the bottom end, he will know what bearings to use etc.

N1 oil pump and a collar to suit on the RB25 crank aswell

abo- what are these squish zones you talk about? what sort of head work? port? polish?

i was told head work was not needed for what i was after. Are there problems with using a thick head gasket to achieve 8.5 cr?

Ihave also been told that o-ringing the head and or block is noot needed for my power levels.

can someeone explain this also?

thanks simon

Edited by handyandy
If it was my choice - i'd leave the head alone aswell.

For your power goal... unless you have money to burn, then not really worthwhile.

I ran over 300rwkw with the stock RB25 head :rofl:

...but whats the price of Jap head gaskets that lower the compression to around 8.5:1? Not all headwork is expensive, i suppose it depends if its the ports or chamber you tweak...so food for thought

The Tomei gasket that was used would hardly break the budget... and i would be confident its cheaper than a port/polish etc.

If i remember ill find out how thick it was...

I wouldnt say a lot to be honest. The car was more zippy off boost before the gasket. Although im sure tuning has a fair part there.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Welcome to Skyline ownership. Yes, it is entirely possible parts websites get things wrong. There's a whole world of inaccuracies out there when it comes to R34 stuff (and probably 33 and 32). Lots of things that are 'just bolt on, entirely interchangable' aren't. Even between S1 and S2 R34's. Yes they have a GTT item supposedly being 296mm. This is incorrect. I would call whoever you got them from and return them and let them know the GTT actually uses 310mm rotors. Depending on where you got them from your experience and success will obviously vary.
    • Hi...a bit a "development" on the brakes. I spoke to the guys where i get brakes from...and they are saying that 296mm EBC are for R34 GT-T. I then went to their site: https://www.ebcbrakes.com/vehicle/uk-row/NISSAN/Skyline (R34)/ and search for my car(R34 GT 1998 - it has GTT brakes) and it show me this USR1229 number and they are rly 296mm rotors... So now iam rly confused... The rotors i have now on the car are 310mm asi shown... So where is the problem? Does the whole EBC got it wrong or my calipers are just...idk know what?  
    • Oh What the hell, I used to get a "are you sure you want to reply, this thread is XX months old" message. Maybe a software update remove that. My bad.
    • This is a recipe for disaster* Note: Disaster is relative. The thing that often gets lost in threads like this is what is considered acceptable poke and compromise between what one person considers 'good' looks and what someone else does. The quoted specs would sit absurdly outside the guards with the spacers mentioned and need  REALLY thin tyres and a LOT of camber AND rolling the guards to fit. Some people love this. Some people consider this a ruined car. One thing is for certain though, rolling the guards is pretty much mandatory for any 'good' fitment (of either variety). It is often the difference between any fitment remotely close to the guards. "Not to mention the rears were like a mm from hitting the coilovers." I have a question though - This spec is VERY close to what I was planning to buy relative to the inboard suspension - I have an offset measuring tool on the way to confirm it. When you say "like a mm" do you mean literally 1mm? Or 2mm? Cause that's enough clearance for me in the rear :p I actually found the more limiting factor ISNT the coilover but the actual suspension arms. Did you take a look at how close those were?
    • @GTSBoy yeah sorry i know thery are known for colors bud those DBA are too in colors 🙂 Green will be good enough for me  
×
×
  • Create New...