Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi guys, i'm building up my rb 25det with gtr rods and arias pistons.

I have ben checking out acl for main and big end bearings.

They have two types of each duraglide, and race series.

I plan on using a gt 3037 and using the car for track and road use.

Are duraglide good enough for my level?

Also are new guides and a strong bolt set essental?

If so where do you recomend getting them from

thanks simon.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/123297-rebuilding-rb-25det/
Share on other sites

hi guys, i'm building up my rb 25det with gtr rods and arias pistons.

I have ben checking out acl for main and big end bearings.

They have two types of each duraglide, and race series.

I plan on using a gt 3037 and using the car for track and road use.

Are duraglide good enough for my level?

Also are new guides and a strong bolt set essental?

If so where do you recomend getting them from

thanks simon.

What gt3037 are you going with ? The .63 or .82 exhaust flange? Internal or external gate? :)

Edited by 217/r33

nis-i'm going to get the block and head machined and built by nigel at raceline with standard crank rb26 rods arias pistons. Keep the head the same and change cr to 8.5 using hks or similar head gasket.

Assembling the rest myself with a mechanic mate.

217/r33-ive been told that the .63 int gated turbo will suit my needs. Thats with some cams thrown in.

Any help is appreciated, simon

The larger rear housing is only going to affect spool by around 400-500rpm.

eg. .63 comes on around 3600 and really quick delivery

.82 comes on around 4000 a more smoother delivery than the .63 and have a greatwer top end.

The 3037 isnt a large turbo really, it will go very nicely on an RB25 with the .82... or .83 or whatever it is that it comes with

Usual injectors/ECU/clutch/fuel pump etc etc.

Im sure Nige & Karl will sort you out mate. They are definately on the ball.

EDIT: If Nige is doing the bottom end, he will know what bearings to use etc.

N1 oil pump and a collar to suit on the RB25 crank aswell

abo- what are these squish zones you talk about? what sort of head work? port? polish?

i was told head work was not needed for what i was after. Are there problems with using a thick head gasket to achieve 8.5 cr?

Ihave also been told that o-ringing the head and or block is noot needed for my power levels.

can someeone explain this also?

thanks simon

Edited by handyandy
If it was my choice - i'd leave the head alone aswell.

For your power goal... unless you have money to burn, then not really worthwhile.

I ran over 300rwkw with the stock RB25 head :rofl:

...but whats the price of Jap head gaskets that lower the compression to around 8.5:1? Not all headwork is expensive, i suppose it depends if its the ports or chamber you tweak...so food for thought

The Tomei gasket that was used would hardly break the budget... and i would be confident its cheaper than a port/polish etc.

If i remember ill find out how thick it was...

I wouldnt say a lot to be honest. The car was more zippy off boost before the gasket. Although im sure tuning has a fair part there.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...