Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The GTR R33 original Brake pad cost $1800 ???? I don't think it make sense at all when a set of original Brembo doesn't even cost that much. Apperantly nissan didn't use Brembo pad for the std brake pad, instead they used a brand call AKIBONO Part #AP50HFF

Does anyone out there have a solution to solve this problem, what other brand brake pad can be used for compliancing other than AKIBONO which cost ridiculously. EBC and BREMBO are definately does not meet the requirement! Please give me the part# as well.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/123484-brake-pad-trouble-for-compliance/
Share on other sites

The GTR R33 original Brake pad cost $1800 ???? I don't think it make sense at all when a set of original Brembo doesn't even cost that much. Apperantly nissan didn't use Brembo pad for the std brake pad, instead they used a brand call AKIBONO Part #AP50HFF

Does anyone out there have a solution to solve this problem, what other brand brake pad can be used for compliancing other than AKIBONO which cost ridiculously. EBC and BREMBO are definately does not meet the requirement! Please give me the part# as well.

if you can give me the chassis number for the car, and preferably the brake pad nissan part number I can check the price in japan and may be able to help you out with this.

In regards to the compliancing issue, basically it all depends on the evidence held by the RAW, so basically whatever the RAW says goes.

The ADR in relation to the brakes is ADR31, and basically it says that you can use the manufacturers brakes or brakes that have been tested to comply with ADR31, which is a very costly exercise which leaves most RAWS with only the option of using manufacturers brakes.

That takes place if your used pads are not roadworthy.

In regards to the compliancing issue, basically it all depends on the evidence held by the RAW, so basically whatever the RAW says goes.

The ADR in relation to the brakes is ADR31, and basically it says that you can use the manufacturers brakes or brakes that have been tested to comply with ADR31, which is a very costly exercise which leaves most RAWS with only the option of using manufacturers brakes.

That takes place if your used pads are not roadworthy.

Thank you for the information, so what brakes do you guys use?

As Skyline33 said it depends on whatever your RAWS (workshop) had approved for compliance. You can only use the brands your workshop requires, not any alternatives. So if you need AKIBONO pads, unfortunately there is no way around that.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Scenic roads, stunning skylines, and Chickos to finish it off! Join SAU NSW as we cruise through the Royal National Park and along Lawrence Hargrave Drive to Figtree! Sunday 26th October 2025 4:30PM Meeting Waterfall Station Parking 5:00PM Cruise Departure Royal National Park > Lawrence Hargrave Dr > Memorial Dr > Sid Parrish Park 6:15PM Arrival at Sid Parrish Park Figtree Meet Location: Waterfall Station Parking Final Destination: Sid Parrish Park RSVP: https://forms.gle/E4s5SiRKQfDdypky8 *Disclaimer* There will be a lead and follow car so no one should get lost. If you would like to attend or bring others along please put your name down and a +1 as numbers will be needed prior! This is NOT a race and we will all be adhering to all road rules. If this is what you want please come to one of our many track days. This is an official SAU:NSW event and will be run under a CAMS permit. One of the things that really sets our club apart is our commitment to being true enthusiasts. When on normal roads we strive to maintain good relations with the authorities as well as the public in general. When attending one of Skylines Australia NSW events please try to: • Be aware of surrounding environment and act accordingly. • Drive courteously on the state’s roads as a true enthusiast should. • Understand how important it is to maintain the good name of SAU NSW and thus, treat others accordingly. • Any misbehavior will not be tolerated and you will be asked to leave.
    • It's funny, as Ive seen plenty of people use them in cheap builds on YT. And they actually go okay, even though a lot of other maxspeedingrods stuff is terrible. Those turbos seem reliable enough, the only part being, a good quality turbo that is "identical" to it, will out perform it day in and day out. In both a lower boost threshold, and the ability to flow more air at the same boost pressure. As a cheap cheap replacement, not a terrible choice. For cheap and shouldn't blow in a day, not terrible (like other eBay/Temu turbos) for low cost and still decent performance, that's where the question comes in to play from the results I've seen. I'd actually find it hilarious to buy one, and strap it to a paddock basher or some other cheap as POS originally NA car, and send it to the moon!
    • The maxpeedingrods turbo is cheap and bolts on to stock parts. I think you just need a bigger silicone coupler for the intake. Its a cheap china turbo, but it's been running on mine for almost 3 years at 16-19 psi.
    • What do they look like right after you've tried to start it with everything connected? Also post photos of what they actually look like.
    • Also wanted to say, my new spark plugs are blackened looks like it's very rich. I have splitfire coilpacks but stock coilpack loom and ignitor. I tried directly grounding the ignitor ground to body as well. 
×
×
  • Create New...