Rb26dett Stage 1 Power Upgrade

[magmazin]

After getting some more info and checking my life savings, I now think I will do my upgrades in stages and see if I am happy with the power output once I get there. I think I will start with mostly bolt ons first and shoot for around 450whp(~330kw). My spare R33 rb26 engine is in very good shape with about 35K miles on it. I think I'll do all these mods on it and drop it in. From the info I gathered it sounds like the stock bottom end should be good for about 500hp(~370kw), does that sound right? I thought instead of rebuilding the bottom end with forged stuff, I will spend the money on a set of Work XD9s with some Kumo VRs and do some brake upgrades. I am mostly building a weekend warrior to have fun with autocrossing and occasional drag racing at the tracks. Anyway here is my revised idea for now.

Stage 1 Power Upgrade.

Tomei Poncams and Adj cam gears-any suggestion if I should go 260in 260ex or go 260in and 252ex? I don't really know what difference the 260 vs 252 on the exhaust cam makes.

Tomei 1mm hgasket kit with oil restrictors-I trust this is a good Hgasket kit, are they O-ringed?

Jun oil pump-already have this, used one. Do I need to worry about too much oil pressure with the turbos or anything?

N1 Water Pump-Paulr33 said I should run stock since I will not be full racing my GTR. They said the stock waterpump flows more at lower RPMs. Is this the case? I thought it was just fewer larger blades that cause less water cavitation or something along those lines.

Greddy Intake Manifold-already have, how much difference do these actually make other than looking pretty?

HKS style ex manifolds, dump pipes and collector-got these new off of ebay, generic and cheap but they look like they should work fine. Anyone have real world experience with the RB26dett Ebay stuff. I have heard about manifolds cracking, but I figure anything that is not cast will have that problem at one time or another. I even saw an HKS set on Ebay that was being sold with a crack already there, not even repaired. Is it worth running the less expensive ones over the cast manifolds?

HKS intercooler hard pipes-got it

HKS 3.5 inch exhaust-got it

HKS Twin Plate Clutch-got it

Trust FMIC-got it, been used so fins are a little bent up , but came with the car.

Decat test pipe(or maybe get a good hi flow cat for the streets)

BNR34 N1 turbos-I already have these so I think I will give it a shot for my stage 1 upgrade anyway.

Power FC L-Jetro-Need this for tuning I'd say

Z32 AFMs-Not sure on these now if I am only going to get around 450hp, when should I replace the stock ones?

600-700cc injectors-I am thinking 680cc sards, I here I should be able to idle ok and I can grow into them if I want to bump the power.

STR Fuel Rail-got it

Aeromotive FPR-what do you guys think about the sard FPRs?

Apexi Air Filters-got it

Greddy Profec B Electronic Boost controller-got it

Nismo Fuel pump ~280 l/hr-thinking about this one, what is the stock one good for? Probably need it for bigger injectors...Also, I read somewhere about running a direct power line for the pump to keep constant higher volts, is this the case with the R32 GTRs that they vary voltage to the pump?

Koyo Radiatior with electric fans-got it

External oil cooler-I think I will do one that comes with a fan strapped to it since I am in arizona and will be doing some autocrossing.

Oil catch can-have a big ol one thinking of doing a more discrete one. I have heard/ seen if the crank venting are not done right you can have problems, is this right? What is the best way to set up an oil catch can? Closed circuit or have a port to vent to atmosphere?

ATI Crank Damper-do you guys think it worth spending at this power level?

What's the deal with running a line outta the back of the head and having it return to the oil pan?

Oil Pan-is it worth messing with? I thought I could slap a Tomei baffle kit in it(~$200US), that or I would do the Trust Oil Pan Upgrade kit(~$320US) but this involves cutting and welding but adds baffle and 1500cc more capacity.

Stage 2 will be forged stuff, ATI damper, balance rotating assemble with full engine rebuild but I will see if I'm happy with 330-370kw ;-)

Once again any of your feedback/suggestions are appreciated.

Thanks,

Tim Deesen

[mazgtr]

Jun oil pump-already have this, used one. Do I need to worry about too much oil pressure with the turbos or anything?

N1 Water Pump-Paulr33 said I should run stock since I will not be full racing my GTR. They said the stock waterpump flows more at lower RPMs. Is this the case? I thought it was just fewer larger blades that cause less water cavitation or something along those lines.

Greddy Intake Manifold-already have, how much difference do these actually make other than looking pretty?

HKS style ex manifolds, dump pipes and collector-got these new off of ebay, generic and cheap but they look like they should work fine. Anyone have real world experience with the RB26dett Ebay stuff. I have heard about manifolds cracking, but I figure anything that is not cast will have that problem at one time or another. I even saw an HKS set on Ebay that was being sold with a crack already there, not even repaired. Is it worth running the less expensive ones over the cast manifolds?

HKS intercooler hard pipes-got it

HKS 3.5 inch exhaust-got it

HKS Twin Plate Clutch-got it

Trust FMIC-got it, been used so fins are a little bent up , but came with the car.

Decat test pipe(or maybe get a good hi flow cat for the streets)

BNR34 N1 turbos-I already have these so I think I will give it a shot for my stage 1 upgrade anyway.

Power FC L-Jetro-Need this for tuning I'd say

Z32 AFMs-Not sure on these now if I am only going to get around 450hp, when should I replace the stock ones?

600-700cc injectors-I am thinking 680cc sards, I here I should be able to idle ok and I can grow into them if I want to bump the power.

STR Fuel Rail-got it

Aeromotive FPR-what do you guys think about the sard FPRs?

Apexi Air Filters-got it

Greddy Profec B Electronic Boost controller-got it

Nismo Fuel pump ~280 l/hr-thinking about this one, what is the stock one good for? Probably need it for bigger injectors...Also, I read somewhere about running a direct power line for the pump to keep constant higher volts, is this the case with the R32 GTRs that they vary voltage to the pump?

Koyo Radiatior with electric fans-got it

External oil cooler-I think I will do one that comes with a fan strapped to it since I am in arizona and will be doing some autocrossing.

Oil catch can-have a big ol one thinking of doing a more discrete one. I have heard/ seen if the crank venting are not done right you can have problems, is this right? What is the best way to set up an oil catch can? Closed circuit or have a port to vent to atmosphere?

ATI Crank Damper-do you guys think it worth spending at this power level?

What's the deal with running a line outta the back of the head and having it return to the oil pan?

Oil Pan-is it worth messing with? I thought I could slap a Tomei baffle kit in it(~$200US), that or I would do the Trust Oil Pan Upgrade kit(~$320US) but this involves cutting and welding but adds baffle and 1500cc more capacity.

Once again any of your feedback/suggestions are appreciated.

Thanks,

Tim Deesen

Wow a few questions, ill have a crack at a few...

Jun oil pump is a good choice and shouldnt have any oil isues with useing it..

The stock water pump is a better choice for a GTR that will still see a lot of street use as it performs better at lower RPM.

Greddy intake manifold will look pretty but will not effect power at the level your looking at.

I have no experience with e-bay maniflods, but i would be a bit hesitant bolting an unknown quantity like that to my pride and joy GTR. If they do crack prematurely your looking at labour and replacement costs down the track, might be better to invest in proper HKS cast manifolds.

A good hi-flow cat will almost match a de-cat pipe, and no risk of the massive fine for not running a cat.

The R34 GTR turbos are a great option, and will make your target power goal, good choice.

The Power FC is a must as soon as you stat trying to run bigger injecters and AFMs, will also give you the ability to fine tune your package, well worth it.

The stockAFMS will be fine for now, only when you start getting up nearer 500BHP do they become a bit restrictive, but if you have a Power FC is an easer switch anyway.

The SARD 680cc injecters should be fine for your target power goal, plus give a reasonable idel and a bit of room for more power down the track.

I run a SARD FPR with my Sard 700cc injecters, good for balanceing and finetuneing the fuel system.

The stock fuel pump will get you close to 300kw at the wheels, but its definatley worth upgradeing for peice of mind and future power. Yes a proper rewire of a new aftermarket pump will be a good choice.

External oil cooler is also a great option for keeping engine happy, get a remote oil filter kit at the same time for much easier oil changes.

Some sort of oil baffle kit is a wise investment as RB26DETT engines do suffer oil surge problems, especially if your planning to use it in any type of motorsport.

I personally prefer the oil catch can to vent the vapour to atmosphere rather than pump it back into the inlet, it is illegal but better for the car.

Hope that help a little bit.

Cheers Matt

[R31Nismoid]

Just a few things

Baffle kit - not required see here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=110680

FPR - not required

ATI Damper - not required

Greddy plenum - not required

So far thats a saving of over $2000

So spend some of that $2000 on a decent manifold and not something from ebay which is going to cause you more heartache than its worth!!!

If your circuit racing the stock motor, the limit is around 300rwkw from what ive seen.

A few around the 330-360rwkw mark have eventually failed in 1-2 years.

Once you get a set of pistons in there etc. Oil flow mods (see link about) and usual other rebuild things then they are fine over 400rwkw with the stock rods/crank

[rev210]

No forged stuff might be a problem depending on tune. More so will be the bearings at 450rwhp (clearance and type). The low km R33 GTR motor is a pot luck deal with factory bearings and 450rwhp. It's quite alot of power really.

get some more money. Do it properly. and then get some more money , break more drivetrain parts, then get some more money. Do the drivetrain bits properly, then get some more money.

[itbmils]

No forged stuff might be a problem depending on tune. More so will be the bearings at 450rwhp (clearance and type). The low km R33 GTR motor is a pot luck deal with factory bearings and 450rwhp. It's quite alot of power really.

get some more money. Do it properly. and then get some more money , break more drivetrain parts, then get some more money. Do the drivetrain bits properly, then get some more money.

what he said

oh - and get some more money !!

[godzl1975]

with the nismo pump whats the it good for in rwkw???

[Trust33]

IF THE EX MANIFOLD IS GOING TO SAVE YOU MORE THAN $500.i say buy it and thicken up the welds at the joins with bracing for $50 extra bux

[CruiseLiner]

IF THE EX MANIFOLD IS GOING TO SAVE YOU MORE THAN $500.i say buy it and thicken up the welds at the joins with bracing for $50 extra bux

thank god for china to assist people with lack of money who are building performance cars

spend the money on good gear and dont waste it on crap that will be useless in 3 months cause its cracked and then u gotta go buy the good one anyway

[rev210]

buy cheap buy twice

[Topaz]

You call ALL THAT stage 1 mods , crikey!

Thats well into Stage 3 mods for what I'm thinking of doing to mine.

I think rev210's advice is short and to the point.

Good luck.

[magmazin]

Ok, I agree on not going cheap, but come on now check this out

Used HKS Ex manifolds and dump pipes $1000+$135shipping=$1135 plus another say $500(incl shipping) for a used HKS collector that comes out to around $1635.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Twin-HKS-Ma...076417391QQrdZ1

Now I am not trying to promote inexpensive items but check these out $99 for dump pipes

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/GTR-RB26-DE...077008582QQrdZ1

Then another $145 for ex manifolds

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SS321-Nissa...001529097QQrdZ1

then $60 for a collector pipe

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/R32-R33-R34...001145913QQrdZ1

Let's see that is about $300 plus shipping and maybe tax $350 since these are local to me here in the US.

1635-350=1285 difference

What could you do with $1285US? I kinda like Trust33 idea, take it to a welder and have him reinforce it if he thinks it needs to be. The only piece I can really see as having a problem with is the exhaust manifolds since they are weight bearing. But it is not like they are carrying one big asss turbo. I am in the US and I can't get HKS parts cheap here, I usually have to pay out the nose for EMS shipping from Japan.

Thanks for the great ideas guys,

Tim Deesen

[Driver]

if your getting a jetro pfc you dont need z32 afms either