Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi

i know its not a skyline but i am thinking about getting a 350z & i was wondering if anyone knows if the ecu's on these can be tweaked or not?if so what sort of improvements are obtainable & where in qld i could get this done?if there is an australian website that deals with 350z's please point me in their direction.

cheers

warrick

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/123576-350z-ecu/
Share on other sites

The factory ECU is flashable to a certain extent, but since its not a real-time tune and there's a finite number of rewrites the EPROM will handle I wouldn't recommend it as a tuner solution. If you were to tweak it once only then fair enough, but if you always mod and you want to retune for the mods you'll break the ECU eventually.

The ECU du jour for the 350Z is the TurboXS UTEC. It can act as a piggyback to the OEM ECU if you want to use it as an interceptor, or can cut the OEM ECU out and run as a complete standalone. It has 5 programmable maps that you can cycle between as well.

Its a pretty nice product from what I've read.

As for Australian 350Z information, the only forum I've found with a reasonable Australian contingent is 350Z-Tech. Most of the Australians I know with 350Zs are either running Unichips or UTECs.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/123576-350z-ecu/#findComment-2284977
Share on other sites

thanks for the replies.yeah i had been looking at 350z tech,lots of really good info.very small aussie input though.still looking for someone in Qld/brissy that does tuning of these ecu's or aftermarket programmers.

cheers

warrick

My boss tuned 1 here on the Gold Coast about 2 years ago using our xede processor the customer wsa stoked with about 8-10rwkw more power which doesn't sound like much but it added about 15km/hr more top speed on his trip back to Perth.

chiptorque.com.au

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/123576-350z-ecu/#findComment-2295698
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
×
×
  • Create New...