Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok, as you may know already i went and got another compression test on friday and the results were good, but now the car is running shit and coughs and splutters and dies under any acceleration at all,

i noticed the first time i started the car after the test was completed the screen of the turbo timer which is normally GREEN was RED.... so obviously it is sensing something is wrong..

obviously they have stuffed somthing up while putting it all back together.... but what could it have been?

i think they put the coils back in the wrong order they took them off but would this matter?

maybe another wire or something they have mucked up... or left un connected???

anyone have any idea what the problem may be? or has anyone encountered this problem themselves?

any help would be very much appreciated.

Beef

Edited by Beef
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/123579-this-cant-be-good-help/
Share on other sites

A boost leak? thats why the tt is red?

Coil packs can go in any order.

maybe..... it seems to get worse at about 3000rpm, just as the turbo starts to spool... but what ever it is it has been triggered by them doing the compression test, it was fine before that.... now its not.... so i dunno.... any other ideas anyone?

Beef

To do a compression test they would of had to take the cross over pipe off, a boost leak would occur if they didnt tighten the clamps up tight enough, god knows it happened to me.

PROBLEM SOLVED.....

ONE OF The HOSE CLAMPS WAS f*kKIN LOOSE AS, YOU COULD SPIN IT WITH YOUR FINGERS, SO OBVIOUSLY AS THE PRESSURE STARTED TO BUILD AT 3000RPM WHEN THE TURBO WAS BOOSTING.... THE PRESSURE WOULD LEAK.... BUT STILL THE TURBO TIMER SCREEN IS STILL RED.... I CAN CHANGE IT TO GREEN BUT IT DOESNT STAY GREEN AND EVERYTIME I TURN THE CAR OFF IT DEFULTS BACK TO RED.... ANY IDEAS....?

ITS A BLITZ full auto turbo timer (FATTX)

Beef

I dont know anything about them but it could mean there is still a small leak somewhere else or it needs to be reset. :P

also solved, as far as i know it defaults back to red when its been diconnected..... i now have changed it back to green.... its a little less "worrying" to look at now..... :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Drain it. I got official Matic D but you can get whatever is listed as Matic D compatible.
    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
    • Nice car! I’m glad folks in the US have gotten past the FnF and are buying real cool cars like the 260RS I was with a bunch of mates in Portland about a year ago and spotted a green Stagea (just a regular 2.5T AWD) parked about 2 blocks away and they were like “a what?” So I made a bet with them for a round of beers and said “ok one of you run down there and tell me if the steering wheel is on the correct side” 5 mins later the American comes trudging back up the hill and goes “he’s right guys. Ok what beer do you want?”
    • Should replace OR drop the tank, give it's good clean. Might be worth replacing that entire fuel level/pump/cradle thing with this: https://frenchysperformancegarage.com/products/fpg-s13-180sx-r32gtst-single-pump-hanger-kit-billet-hat-6-v3-fpg-089?gQT=2  
    • Thank you so much for the help
×
×
  • Create New...