Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Slightly off topic - but I converted my HKS solid centre twin plate to a sprung centre and what a difference!

Apart from the typical twin plate rattle when the clutch is depressed, you would think it's a stock clutch (almost).

Slightly off topic - but I converted my HKS solid centre twin plate to a sprung centre and what a difference!

Apart from the typical twin plate rattle when the clutch is depressed, you would think it's a stock clutch (almost).

and the cost of the conversion?

have a twin HKS at home, waiting to go in, solid centred.. but i can see it will need to be rebuild within a year :D

i found my booster and master were both leakin so thats my problem, and the fact i got a slave with a bore of only 15mm and the stock gtr one is 19.05mm and nismo is 20.54mm so the change back to a gtr one will have a considerable difference compared to the pissy one i currently have and also when i fix the vacuum booster setup it should be like a new car to drive :D

yep u definately would have a longer fork by the looks of it.

longer fork means u need more travel so i doubt u could use a longer fork and a nismo slave together as the nismo wouldnt have enough travel to disengage it i'd imagine.

also my clutch is awesome now with the new gtr slave cylinder (3/4) and the vacuum booster is now fixed as someone had previously put the wrong size o-ring on to seal it and it was leaking.

i also adjusted the pushrod inside the vacuum booster abit longer to gain more travel on the slave :)

feels beautiful to drive now and it even rattles alot less which is a benefit :D

thanks for all the info peoplz

Brad

Edited by CruiseLiner
  • 4 months later...

aha, happy i found this thread. so just to confirm:

1. there should be a difference in clutch feel when the car is off/on - harder off, easier on?

2. a larger slave (like the nismo slave) will make the clutch softer?

cheers fellas.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...