Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Here you are buddy!!!

Sorry, my car is a bit dirty. i took my camera to work so i could take some pics for everyone on my lunch break.

Ahhhh pics work.

gallery_8635_338_21250.jpg

Seats

gallery_8635_338_19172.jpg

Driver Door

gallery_8635_338_20510.jpg

Inside

gallery_8635_338_22382.jpg

Engine Bay 1

gallery_8635_338_59181.jpg

Engine Bay 2

gallery_8635_338_4700.jpg

Engine Bay 3

gallery_8635_338_68278.jpg

Outside 1

gallery_8635_338_16855.jpg

Outside 2

gallery_8635_338_42474.jpg

Outside 3

gallery_8635_338_61774.jpg

Outside 4

gallery_8635_338_27750.jpg

Jap Rego sticker (I left it on coz i thought it looked cool)

gallery_8635_338_18256.jpg

Model Number

gallery_8635_338_33713.jpg

Compliance Plate

gallery_8635_338_17980.jpg

Another Engine Pic 1

gallery_8635_338_6065.jpg

Another Engine Pic 2

gallery_8635_338_63177.jpg

Another Inside Pic 1

gallery_8635_338_35367.jpg

Another Inside Pic 2

gallery_8635_338_54222.jpg

Sick Stock Gauges

gallery_8635_338_46295.jpg

LOOK!!!! Air Vent is NOT Broken!!!!!!

gallery_8635_338_34436.jpg

Another UNBROKEN Air Vent!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/124038-swapped/page/2/#findComment-2377894
Share on other sites

can you put the back seat in?

I have a sil with rb20, i'm selling for $15000. interested?

minor mods, rego till Jan 07

i'd like to have the GTR with the extra mods. (fittd or non fited i dont mind)

http://redlineau.com/forum/modules.php?ful...=view_photo.php

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/124038-swapped/page/2/#findComment-2387929
Share on other sites

I need the back seat put back in.

With extra parts put in the boot $4000

With extra parts fitted and original in boot $5000

My car, aesthetics as seen in photo, FMIC, AVCR, Turbo from RB25 ser. II, 3” mandrel bent exhausts from turbo out. HKS SSQ BOV, GReddy pod Filter, High Flow Fuel pump, Malpassie Fuel Reg, Power FC with Hand Controller (AP Engineering), Earthing Kit, Timing belt and pullies replaced recently (genuine Nissan parts, 5000km ago), Serviced every 5000kms with mobile 1 product only, Front and Rear Strut Braces, Nismo Shocks and Springs. Upgraded LSD, Skyline Breaks all round (from NA 33 considerable better stopping power).

Rego till end of Jan and has current RWC.

So what do you think?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/124038-swapped/page/2/#findComment-2391837
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • And if you want more power, more reliably, and cheaper, go get the Aussie RB... The 4L Barra and put that in instead.
    • No cats will keep discolouring the rear bar. Sends white paint a weird yellow stain. Cut and polish normally gets it out, but you'll be doing that every fortnight I found.
    • Both heads will be equally reliable or unreliable depending on what you do to them.  Stock the RB26 head will flow more. You have access to the stock intake ITB manifold on the RB26 cheaply which flows really well(1000hp+).   Arguably more aftermarket support for RB26, though in Aus we love our RB30 SOHC heads too.    The only downsides to the RB26 head is if you have a VL commodore and want to keep the SOHC look.  Where you may have an issue is drilling out the rb30 block for the bigger head studs but if you are building a big power motor you'd probably put bigger studs on the SOHC head too.  This is just about finding a good machine shop, sometimes easier said than done.  RB30 head worked can make big power just like a Rb26 head, so really it actually more comes down to what your preference is for your car.  People now even making billet versions of both.
    • 2630s work perfectly well. There is something to be said for just using the 30 head, as it saves all the pain of the conversion, still makes tons of power, still sounds cool, etc etc. 2630 will obviously make more power again, but the differences are not stupidly big. It really depends on whether you're racing for sheep stations or not. If it's dead serious, then it's a 26 head. If it's just for fun, it could go either way. But the 26 head and the effort to get it set up, etc etc, is part of the fun.
    • I've been building a 26/30 for a few years now. I've had the head built with all the good stuff. I had a 32 gtr but blew it up and yes its all going into a vl but im looking for some advice from some RB nuts on pros and cons on putting a 26 head on a 30 bottom end is it worth it Works are as follows Head -Extensive porting 1mm oversized supertech valves Supertech double springs Supertech valve guides Supertech titanium retainers Tomei solid lifters Tomei 270 x 10.25 cams Head drain Bottom end series 2 rb30 block Cp ceramic coated pistons Eagle rods Romac balancer Oil restrictions  O ringed blah blah spent a fortune And will get a girdle because the 30s arent used to handling that much rpm Nitto billet oil pump Hypertune plenum 6boost mani Refurbed astra pump thats the cover for it in the boot I did have a precision 6262 but sold it because drag car life. Currently building the ass end full 4 link floater rear end with a 2 speed  But the dilemma i have is my mate rekens I should just stick with the 30 head for reliability. Has any one had any issues with mounting the 26 head ie compression blowing gaskets etc. Just looking for some advice from people who have gone down this route. Here's some photos. Blew the oil pump in the gtr and decided to rip the motor out at the time and do a full build only to find it had been a repairable write off so went down this path.     
×
×
  • Create New...